"DaScrew-Driver" ROCKS!!!!!

[Screw]

Screw-In

Oh My God!!!

This is a long story, but, the payoff has been fantastic!!! As most of you have been following, "DaScrew-Driver," an 1835ccVW KB-2 has been having some overheating problems, and I have been having some flying problems with the blades.

No matter what I did flying wise, my Cyclinder head temps have been around 425 to 500 degrees. Airspeed has been around 60mph nose down haul *ss possition with the standard Brock Blades and a 4 foot rotor bar. The 2 foot rotor bar, I saw the same head temps, and a little faster cruise, but I couldn't gain altitude very well. Blades were just too small.

To solve the overheating problems, I figured it was a combination of too much wieght for the engine. 560lbs flying fully loaded, and a 24 foot diameter rotor system. What could I do to cool the motor? eyebrows made it hotter (500 degrees plus). Keep in mind that my CHT is mounted to a head bolt, not the spark plug. I changed the oil to 15-50 synthetic (Mobile One), and replaced the $60 oil cooler with a $110 one. Measures 11x11 with 1/2 inch hose. I also went from 93 octain car has to 100LL avgas.

While all of this was going on I sold my blades with both the 2 and 4 foot hub bar and bought DocJon's 23ft Dragon wings. Hoping, the smaller more effecient blades will give me about the same performance as the 24s but a better ground clearance and not work the engine so hard.

I trailered "DaScrew-Driver" to KACJ (Americus Souther Field). I family friend was having there annual Model Airplane fly-in about 5 miles away at Hodges Hobbies (www.hodgeshobbies.com).

I left my house at 5:00am and was the airport by 8:15 I met up with my first CFI Rick Urash for my BFR and this was the first time he had seen "DaScrew-Driver. I told him what all was going on with "DaScrew-Driver" and he knew that I had my hands full with all on the changes. After the BFR, he helped me assemble the Dragoin Wings. We stang 'em and they seemed like we got it right the first time. Very little movement possible once all the bolts are in. So after stinging we tightened them down.

I was extremeley nerveous not nowing if I had assembled the blades correctly, or if they were alligned right, but it seemed like Mr. Boyette did everything he could to make it idiot proof. Fortunately, the weather was perfect!

After replacing the oil cooler and re-routing the case vent tube from the carb to down the mast, I ran the engine on the ground quite a bit to make sure I wasn't blowing oil out the tube. All seemed fine.

I got geared up and and taxied out to runway 27 and finally made the announcement I have been wiating a year to do, "Good Morning Americus Traffic, this is Gyroplane N34KB spooling up rotors and preparing to depart runway 27, manuvering inside the fence staying clear of all fixed wing traffic, Americus." So, I began spooling up the dragon wings. Knowing they were smaller than what I had, after I couldn't count to five I slowing allowed the cyclic to come back to my lap and released the holding brake. Somebody said they took longer to spin up. I think they lied! Nosewheel came up in about a hundred feet, and I could hear the "Dragon come to Life!" Ensuring that my previous Cessna flight didn't mess me up, I ballanced on the mains for a while and the blades felt great! A little more power and I was off.

Oh My God!!! Were the only words that came rushing through my head like a stampeed! I was climbing out like a "Bat out of hell" and wasn't at full throttle. These blades gave me way better performance than the larger brock blades ever thought about! What would Ron Awad do? So, I gave it "Full Throttle!" Holy sh*t. Was I flying Steve's Machine? Did I have a Mazda Rotory back there? Hell no! I powered back and flew the patten around the airfield doing coordinated turns, turnsnose down turns, light stalls, stall turns, checking my guages every so often, only to find that my oil temps hadn't even broken 160 degrees, my heads were around 350 degrees, and I was having a blast!!! After flying around the airport for about 30 minutes and ensuring all was well, I departed the pattern to the east heading over to Hodges Hobbies.

I was cruising at 75MPH!!! Nose down, back off the throttle to what sounded right. I'd have to be at less than half throttle for my RPM guage to read 3000 RPM and that just doesn't sound right. At half throttle, I am desending, so I'm probably cruising at 3/4 throttle and 75MPH!!! Hit 80 once just to see, but backed off. There were spotters at the other field, and I made an entrance where they could see and hear me before I was close enough to get in anyones way. A friend of mine had a radio and he let me know when the field was clear and I came in.

First a flybye, a couple of turns, and a perfect landing on the grass strip. Ground roll might have been 4 feet. Taxied off the field and parked. Kinda got mixed reactions from the folks there. Got everything from, "That was awsome," to, "That sure looks dangerous."

The machine performed flawlessly, I couldn't have been more pleased. I stayed there and flew a little better than 5 hours saturday. Camped out at the field with my daughter, and flew almost 6 hours Sunday. Got home Sundy around 8:00pm stinking but smiling. :D

I think some folks got some video and I will post as soon as available.

I did have one oops though. I'll post a new thread in a minute.

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[barnstorm2]

Great Story!

Congratulations on getting the machine in tune and screaming :D

Makes me and my little 447 jelous :(

[scottessex]

Sounds like you got it going on now!!!

[MikeBoyette]

John,
You and folks like you who are this satisfied with DW's is the best advertisment my Dad could get. I am glad you are enjoying them. They make a usually ill performing machine fly pretty good. Good luck.

[Screw]

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Mike, what are the chances that I hurt the blades on a hard bounced landing? No one could tell me how much if any they flexed when I hit, but I managed to fly off and go around. After a complete inspection and could find no damage, I flew almost 6 hours the next day with no problems.

The last thing I need is a blade failure next week, but I have no Idea how much rotor blades can tolerate.

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[CLS447]

John, Gary Goldsbury told me that those Bensen/Brock blades were all they had at one time. There were no other choices. I know you trained under a set of Skywheels. Did they have much shake? I have always loved my Skywheels & wouldn't trade them for the world. I would love to let you try them on your machine, & see what you think.

Now with Skywheels almost gone , Dragon Wings seem to be the best choice. Every 2 place I have flown in, other than the Magni , had DW's. I always asked why they shake so much & I always got an excuse like... I didn't string them or I need to balance them better. Then I see slider heads, hydraulic dampers & weighted stabilizers. The point is the bigger the blades, the more they shake. I am really glad that the DW's have solved your problems. So why look any further ,right?

I knew I was gonna need big blades & didn't want any shake or gadgets. So I spent $4000 (ouch) on my Sportcopter blades. I am very pleased, but I swear as soon as I can ,I will get a set of DW's for less than half that. I wonder what I will say on that first takeoff?

I have a brand new set of Brock blades for my KB-2, but I am not real anxious to try them on my 447. I will more than likely use my 23' Skywheels on my KB.

One more thing, When I first started flying my gyro, I thought I was a stunt pilot also. Then one day I just decided to fly more conservitely. No more showing off, leave that to the show pilots.

You definitely have one ROCKING KB-2! I am really happy for you!

[GyroRon]

Screwdriver........ I told you that you'd like them Dragon wings! Now try it with car gas again and see how she runs.

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Thanks Chris and Ron, I have no stick shake and all was great! So great Ron, I ain't changing a thing! Once you fly it, I bet you'll like it. You don't know the night and day differance this bird has done, so you may not think to much of the performance. But I do.

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[Screw]

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Don't worry Mike, You guys have my business for life! Also, give me a little time, I'm gonna get a brand new set from yall sometime this year.

I wanna get them painted or anodized Orange/White

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[MikeBoyette]

John,
The blades should be fine as long as they didn't hit the runway. I would like to get you into a Dominator. I think you'd like it, however it may take you a bit to get used to sitting that high. I look forward to hearing more about your adventures. Good luck.

[jucie]

A few days ago you were thinking about to put DaScrew-Driver for sale. I got happy to know all she needed was a pair of Dragon Wings, John.

[cgmg]

Mike,

I learned to fly under Skywheels, and bought a set for our first machine. I thought I loved the Skywheels, except for taking them off and putting them back on by myself(I weigh about 140 soaking wet).

Fortunately for us, my wife flapped the Skywheels, and after talking with Ernie, I bought a pair of Dragon Wings. Other than scaring the you-know-what out of me the first time I took them airborne, I wouldn't ever go back to Skywheels, even at half the price. I don't even string my blades any more, and at most I have about a 3/8" wobble in my stick. We both can float literally forever on landing, and you can get up to 3 tries at floating back down to the ground if you work it right. For a single place machine, I can't imagine spending what people are paying for Sport Copter's blades.

Installing and removing the blades is no longer a hernia or fall looking to happen. And Ernie has been very patient with some of my idiotic questions early on as a DW user.

It also felt to me like we doubled the horsepower with the DW's, which is what scared the heck out of me on the first flight.

I'm glad to hear that John is another happy customer in the DW family.

[KenSandyEggo]

Hey, Mike B., what is the deal on your dad's prerotator? Will it work with Soobs and what are the numbers you guys see? It seems like the topic is not well discussed (all prerotators). It would be nice to get consistent runs close to 200 rpm. The guy that whacked his 2 sets of blades and let me try his Sportcopters can get up there in his RAF. I looked at his setup and it is absolutely no different than mine. I tried his for a few flights and some prerotations and there was no problem with getting them near 200 at just above idle without the aid of any wind. He said his secret was lubing the shaft with refrigeration oil. I tried it and it helps for awhile, but he hadn't re-lubed his in about a year and he was still showing those numbers. I don't get it. Mine starts slipping near 1400 rpm and I'm usually around 100 to 125 on the rotor tach and he's getting 190 or so.

It is way overdue for some ingenious person to come up with a prerotator system that will consistently achieve 200 rpm without burning up the battery or carrying an extra 100 pounds along; that is economical, reliable and consistent. It seems to me to be an area where we're really lagging. We're sporting all that horsepower on a lot of the machines and it shouldn't be that difficult to harness some for decent rotation speeds. We need some clever engineer type to make the breakthrough. Sales would probably be phenominal, even considering our relatively small numbers.

I was really impressed when John Potter took me for a ride in an Air & Space and spun those blades up. I believe they get up to around 450 for the jump take-off. Of course the blades are flattened to help out, but if some 2-time blade-whacker can get those 190 numbers on his RAF without really knowing why, someone should be able to push us over the hump. Couldn't someone slightly miniaturize a version of the A & S system for us poorer slobs?

I thought that if we could replace or modify the clutch face with some direct connection there that could be engaged and disengaged, we'd get those numbers easily. How about using the same clutch assembly and then when the blades get over 100 rpm, engage some sort of spring-loaded pin(s) device that would pass through both plates/faces of the clutch, engaging them solidly. Upon reaching 200 or whatever, the clutch-faces and pins could be easily dis-engaged. It wouldn't have to be pins passing through, just something that would grip the 2 metal clutch faces and prevent them from slipping and/or disengaging.

O.K. If no one wants to do it, I will get some design engineers to perfect something and you guys are going to pay me up the wazoo for one. If you don't want that, get cracking on figuring something out. :cool: I'll copy this over to the Rotor Blade thread too.

[Chuck Irby]

John,

How many times, right after you soloed and had all the complaints, do you suppose I told you that you needed to try a pair of DW's?

I am happy for you John and glad that you are now enjoying your machine.

Mike B. is right though. I too think you would be even happier in a Dominator.

[Aussie_Paul]

Ken the best prerotator that I have used was on the Wyndrider.

It used a wide; say 2 or 3" through a right angle drive and then through a spline shaft drive to the bendix.

The NZ Kahu tried all types of hydraulics but all failed with hard work. They, as off a year ago, were using a spline shaft drive.

I have invested in a 3 hp starter motor. Most are 2 hp, which will give you approx 100 to 110 rrpm. This 3 hp got to 160 rrpm easily. 200 may be possible but at this point I have only started the development. The soft start is what will be needed, and I am researching that.

A possibility for theFirebird up market model could be to run off the front spare pulley beside the alternator drive belt and use the spline shaft arrangement.

The flexible drive is not the best way to transfere power, although I can regularly get 200 if I need to from most Raf friction drive pre rotators. The secret is to have the friction pads machined to match the clutch plate and to have a good leverage ratio from the hand grip to the friction clutch.

I think that at the recreational level 160 to 180 rrpm is ok, but for a working machine on an outback property I believe that a little over 200rrpm will be needed for the emergency short patch take off.

Anyway, that is just a little of what we have been playing with regarding pre rotators.

Aussie Paul.

[CLS447]

Mark, thanks for your input regarding Skywheels vs. DW's .Well, maybe I would trade them! Did you replace 23' s with 23' s? I always reccomend them for single place machines but was concerned when I needed 28' s . I can see I will have to get a set for both machines now, & try them for myself.

So far I am impressed mith my SC blades & I am over the cost. You ought to try & put them on your machine. A crane is very helpful!

What scared you on takeoff? Where there any other flight characteristic changes noticed between the 2 sets of blades? What machine?

[Dean_Dolph]

Ken, there are two pre-rotator setups that I would want to try if building a new machine. The first (because I understand how it works!) is the setup that Richard Oxnam (better know as Mary Jane's husband!) has on his machine. It supposedly gets consistently more than 200 rpm. In fact, as I recall, there was a report on Norm's conference that he was able to get 300! If my memory is fuzzy wrong then in the famous words of K.J., 'never mind'.

If I'm correct, Dave DeWinter used this same setup and refined it but I don't recall if he ever reported what rpm he was able to get. The setup uses the typical rubber friction wheel that rotates against a drive plate. But in this case the drive plate is mounted on the front of the engine instead of the typical drive arrangement that you have. It uses a square tube sliding joint shaft with the requisite u-joints (as I recall, I can't find the pictures at the moment) to connect with the Bendix. Dave, jump in here and clarify.

The setup that really intrigues me is the one that Dick DeGraw had on his dominator hybrid at Bensen Days '03. As it has been described to me, it uses a cone clutch. It should be capable of cranking up the rpm with little or no slippage if mated someway to the output arrangement like Dave has. It would probably require a right angle drive of some sort. Presently Dick has it direct driving a hydraulic pump. No belts, no rubber wheel and no slippage!

If someone could talk Dick into designing and developing a unit that incorporated the cone clutch and right angle drive into one unit then I believe we would be in for a quantum leap in pre-rotation. Also, the rubber wheel, the flex shaft, belts and the hydraulic pumps would be eliminated.

Dick doesn't toot his own horn and for some reason no one reports on all the little ingenious things he develops. A person will miss a lot of them unless you look very closely at his machines and even then it is likely they will get overlooked unless you get in a discussion with Dick and they get mentioned in passing. It is obvious that he creates these devices to satisfy his personal needs and apparently gets satisfaction from doing so without the accolades. The accolades naturally follow and can't be avoided when the Sychrocopter, the award winning jump take off machine and Carol's De Bird among other stuff, are displayed. It is not fair that one guy has all this talent!

[quadrirotor]

I agree with you, Dean, Dick Degraw is a wizard!...the simpler prerot. i saw is the "French connection": a friction wheel driving a disk direct at the head; this friction wheel is motorized by a strap running from a polley on the engine...

[MikeBoyette]

Ken,
I am quite sure what he get consistanly on big bades. Maybe he can answer that he has been posting some lately. I do know that on a tall ( set up to run a 68 in prop)618 powered Dominator he was able to get in excess of 300 rpms. With a light wind he could get off the ground in about 5 to 10 feet. This was very impressive.

[KenSandyEggo]

Aaaaaargh! That's what I want, Mike.

[lanichol]

Ken,

Put in an automatic transmittion like a snow mobile or ATV. The faster it spins, the faster it can spin. Or how about the 2 speed automatic transmittion in RC cars. When it reaches a specific RPM, ball bearing lock into the next gear.

I like the idea of the snow mobile variable speed. Start the blades spinning, build a clutch that locks in solid and let the variable belt drive spin it up. You would have to build an adjustable tension for the heavy duty spring in the variable size clutch that could be calibrated to the load of the blades. Thus the wear would be on belts. Design it for quick change, and always have a spare. ATVs have alot of torch with such a drive.

[KenSandyEggo]

I've gotten some good feedback here and I am going to take it a step further. The primary market is the RAFs and Sparrowhawks, as they both have the same type clutch setup with it's inherent slipping. I will start talking first to the guys at Hammerhead Aviation who engineered my stab for me and see if they're interested in a little R & D. I'd see a pretty good market of at least 650 ships right now, with AAI quickly upping that number. We'll explore all avenues, but probably something that will lock up the 2 clutch faces after initial spinup, whether more pressure via hydraulic means or something that locks those 2 faces together at will. I'm on a mission. :cool:

[Aussie_Paul]

Ken I have thought about a motorcycle front brake lever and slave cylinder to engage the Raf clutch.

Started on Firebird before I had a chance to try it.

Aussie Paul.

[KenSandyEggo]

Well, we're on our way. I taxied over and Robert was interested. He likes challenges. In about 10 minutes, he figured out a way that should get those rpm up there with a fairly simple mod. No fabricating, sawing or drilling. He already knew from where to order the parts and we're on our way. He said that he saw no reason we couldn't get well into the high 200 rpm range. Stay tuned.

[StanFoster]

Ken: I am all ears. I can get 140-150 with mine..but I am going to do an experiment this weekend to see if I can get it faster.

[KenSandyEggo]

I can get those numbers also with some wind help. But if the wind is still, mine starts slipping at 1400 rpm and she stays where she's at, usually around a little over a hundred rrpm. :(

[Mike Hook]

Ken take some pics as you progress on this field change.

thanks

Mike

[Aussie_Paul]

Guys, one thing that I have found with the Rafs is that they vary from adequate to fantastic!!!!!

There are different friction pad sizes and clutch plate sizes. The larger ones with the 3 friction pads have given us the best and the worst results. As I think I said on Norms forum, when Raf pop rivet the friction pads to the pulley the friction pads become warped and only the 6 outer tips touch the clutch face. I does not matter how hard you engage it the surface area is too small.

I take the pulley with the friction pads and place it in a lathe to resurface the friction pads. This allows the whole surface area to work for you.

With the power at idle we get close to 80 rrpm, then, by gently increasing power and not allowing the clutch to slip, 200 is possible every time.

There is one raf owner in Oz who is so severe with his pre rotator that he has had the belt slipping and had worn the lower pulley where he had to have the ribs re profiled!!!!!! His bendix and ring gear are extremely worn as well. What that says is that he has a great non-slipping clutch. His was perfect as it came!!!!

I have always run the heaviest and thickest grease available.

It seems that every Raf owner has a different story to tell with a Raf pre rotator!!!!!!!!!!!

Aussie Paul.


ps Has anyone tried, or know someone who has tried, the Jeff Hunt soft start for the starter motor pre rotator?

[KenSandyEggo]

It's like the FARS, Paul. Everyone has an opinion and a story, and they never match with anyone else's. I think a little of the fishermen's code enters also...lying. I get my best rrpm when I re-lube my shaft with refrigerastion or gear oil instead of the heavy marine grease I used to use, but it doesn't last as long as the grease.

Mike...you must be joking!! Evidently you don't recall my tales of near financial ruination in developing a decent stab. I was lucky to get my investment back. This may be proprietary information and carry a "patent-pending." I am still determined to become rich via the aviation industry........O.K., keep from starving to death. I'll decide later. I don't want to post anything that may not work well or last. We'll test it first before any meaningful info on it is given out. I'd hate to post a design and then we all find out they blow up after 23.879 hours.

[gyromike]

Ken,

You do know how to make a small fortune in the aviation biz, dontcha?

You start with a large fortune. ;)

[KenSandyEggo]

Mike, that joke is maybe even older than me.

[Screw]

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Hey Mike,

I saw "DaScrew-Driver"s' tail on Rons Website. It looks Great! Thanks.

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[gyromike]

John,

Glad you liked it. That's a good looking tail you have.

Your rudder and stabilizer setup ain't bad either. :p

[Screw]

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I can't wait to meet you!

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[Screw]

Screw-In,

Here some more that were taken at KACJ.

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[Screw]

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[Screw]

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Daddy's got a set of "Dragon Wangs!"

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[Screw]

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Little flybye. I think this is the first shot I have with me as the pilot.

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[Screw]

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I know some don't agree with the way some folks fly, but every thing felt so good between the engine and the Dragonwings, I looped her for the first time. Everything went so well, I'll probably make it a regular routine. Check it out.

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[Screw]

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Here we go!!! Pulling back as hard as I could after reaching 80 mph.

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[Screw]

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Over the top!

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[Screw]

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Here is the recovery. This part had me pretty worried.

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Back to Staight and level. I got that up to 100mph or more on the backside.

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[Screw]

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It is amazing what you can do with a McGriddle, washed down with a Dr. Pepper :D

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[gyromike]

Nice pics John.

Also glad to hear that the DW's are working out for you. I picked up a set of 23 footers at B-Days. Rock-n-Roll Baby!

After I get my altimeter and engine tach fixed, I will do a back to back comparison between the DW's and my 23'10" RotorDynes.

[MikeBoyette]

Mike,
Come on there is no comparison. Look who sold them to you. Would I steer you wrong. I am still waiting on my commision check. I quess I'll get my commission when I get my inheritance. LOL I doubt there will any money left for that. If I know Dad he will have it all spent by then.

[Screw]

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My Dad used to say, "Your commision is Dinner! As soon as you fix it for us."

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[gyromike]

Mike,
Come on there is no comparison. Look who sold them to you. Would I steer you wrong. I am still waiting on my commision check. I quess I'll get my commission when I get my inheritance. LOL I doubt there will any money left for that. If I know Dad he will have it all spent by then.

Mike,

I know the DW's perform better, but I would like to do the comparison just to see how much better. ;) Just to satisfy my own curiosity.

And you should have recieved the commission by now! I sent it to your Dad with explicit instructions to pass it on to you. Maybe it got lost in the snail-mail! :rolleyes:

[GyroRon]

John I found this on my other favorite site and of course thought of you. So enjoy it as I know you will :)

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/boobyman.html

[Chuck Irby]

Nice pics John! Did they fool anyone?

[Screw]

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That's great Ron! I'm glad you think of me when you stuff like that. Warns my heart all over.

Chuck, I don't think so. I kinda expected someone to go off on it, but I guess I didn't fool anyone. Not even a newbee.

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[MikeBoyette]

John,
When you meet me you'll understand how your statement could'nt be more true.
Mike I know the check is in the mail.

[Hognose]

Mike,

That's rule number 1 of the two rules to a small fortune in aviation.

Rule Number 2 is the oft-neglected, "know when to stop."

cheers

-=K=-

[Mike Jackson]

Hey John,

Did you do a thrust test on your KB? What did your empty GW come out to be? I'm trying to see if I can get my 225# frame airborne on a warm day.

How was your experience with Great Plaines and your VW? Did you put it together or leave it to them?

Thanks,

Mike

[Screw]

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"DaScrew-Driver" wieghs in empty @ 295lbs. 345lbs with full tank and 563lbs with full tank and me. Max gross is 600lbs.

My experiance with Great Plains has been great! I bought the engine fully assembled and test ran with the exhaust and prop I would be using. Ran ok with car gas, and great with Avgass. I don't know what the plugs look like now, but I idle around 1000rpm to keep the build up down.

I'm slowly getting the courage to do some cross countries, but I have to be carefull. I only have an 8.3 gal tank and I'm not sure of the actual fuel burn. The engine is supposed to get around 4 gph and at 70mph, that should take me 140 miles. I'm just gonna start finding some 30 mile stretches from airport to airport and build some hours.

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[Mike Jackson]

Thanks John,

Did you do a thrust test? What kind of prop are you swinging?

Cheers,

Mike

[Screw]

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I'm swinging a TPI 52-28. I aint got a clue as to the thrust.

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[ben]

john and mike,
just order a set of 25ft dragon wings cant wait for them to get here[/IMG]

[Screw]

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Why did you go with 25 feet? Just asking.

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[Chuck Irby]

John, I Wondered About That Too. Maybe Ernie Recommended It.

When Ya'll Comin Over, Screw?

[Screw]

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Don't know. Why do I feel like I'm having to defend myself in the Training Thread? I never considered any of my flying fixed wing or otherwise as "Cowboyish."

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[ben]

john and chuck,
my all up weight is 760lb 500 gyro, 260 me, lol

25ft gave me the numbers i need on disk loading. :rolleyes:

[Screw]

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Gottcha! Thanks for the reply.

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[ben]

john,i have a set of 24 challenge blades on my gyro now they are a heavy blade 2 ten ft blades 4 ft hub. i'm hoping to get the kind of climb you ended up with.

[Screw]

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If you go with Dragon Wings, you won't go wrong! IMHO

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[Chuck Irby]

Ben, that makes sense to me. I thought, from your picture, that you looked pretty healthy. You'll love the DW's.

[ben]

hey john and chuck and ron got a new set of 25ft dragon wings sitting on the kitchen floor who- ha lol lol ben

[Chuck Irby]

Ben, When are you going to be able to fly them? Let us know how the machine performs with them.

[Screw]

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Please let us know what you think after flying them!!! :D Ben's gotta treat!

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[joeheli]

Finaly we are showing the world that you don't need to buy a $20G "sportcopter" to do a loop. :D :D :D :D nice camera trick!! :D

[ben]

john how do ya string these things ?

[Chuck Irby]

Ben, it's not easy to explain. Maybe it would be easier for you to sling them. Take a look at Ron's post at the following:

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=205&highlight=stringing

[ben]

thanks chuck good stuff

[Chuck Irby]

Ben, now that you can fly them, you should probably get Ernie or Mike to send you some stringing instructions, as there may be times when you will not be able to sling them, for one reason or another. I tried to sling mine once when it was windy and couldn't get the blades to stop without helping them manualy. That could have caused some misalignment.

[ben]

chuck when i got the blades they even sent the string i thought that was cool lol ben

[Chuck Irby]

Yeah, probably a pretty color too, huh? To properly string them, you need to make two blocks out of a 2 x 4 piece of wood. Ernie can probably provide you with a sketch or a template to make those to. I had a pair and recently looked everywhere I thought they might be, but to no avail. If you sling them, try to do it when there is no wind.

[Screw]

Screw-In

Hi Ben, & Chuck,

I just read yalls postings and sorry I haven't responded until now. I had that very same question abut stringing. I think that maybe I have been lucking up or just doing right, I don't know.

I use three supports. 2 supports on each blade around the center and insert the bar on both blades marked X & O. I use the third support in the center just briefly while I'm inserting the bar. I insert 1 bolt on each side and remove the center support so that the blades and bar reach thier conning angle. I then insert all of the other bolts and nuts but not tight. I have a place marked on each blade to place the string.

The funny thing is, with all of the bolts in place, my blades have been lined up! The string has to run accross the center of all twelve bolts that hold the blades to the bar. If it doesn't, the you have to adjust the blades fore and aft untill the string does line up and tighten your bolts.

Then I attach the teeter to the bar. Mount the blades to the head and go fly.

Slinging the blades is similar except you don't use the string and you only hand tight the nuts. Spin up your blades to the point of balance. Stop and allow your rotor to come to a stop on thier own. If the use the brake or you hands to stop the blades then you have to do it again. Once you blades have stopped, tighten your nuts and go fly.

I've only used the string so far.

Screw-Out

[CLS447]

Who misses John....other than me ?

RIP Chuck Irby.