View Full Version : dragon wing stringing
mike marckel
06-11-2006, 05:34 PM
Help, ....tried to string my new 25ft dw's today,1/4"out the best i could get? Set up on sawhorses balanced on 1/4 coard with 1/2"rubber hose between the blades and horse. Matched the hub bar marks and teter block marks.Something odd i did notice ,one blade strap bolt was grade 8 all the outher were AN.Also large burrs on the inside of the blade strap holes,I deburred the holes before assembly,the bolts are fairly loose when you push them through.This is my second set of DWs first set was easy to string.What am I missing??????:confused: :confused: Mike
GyroRon
06-11-2006, 05:40 PM
Just SLING them.... easier than stringing and quicker
TomCarlisle
06-11-2006, 06:31 PM
I have two sets of Dragon Wings. I have found that you have to position the sawhorses under the blades at the spot where the string just passes over the mark, then put a once folded shop rag under the front of the blades on the sawhorses. On mine, this will put the string exactly over the scribed mark and the blades are SMOOTH.
RockyMeLad
06-11-2006, 07:39 PM
Mike,
I found that if I balance the blades on the 1/4 cord (across the blade), and equally out from the center so that the string is just clear of the center block, it works fine. I "eye-balled" the spacing of the supports once, and didn't get the supports "equal" distances from the center. :o They wouldn't balance right. Guess I need my eye-balls recalibrated.:D
david holmes
06-11-2006, 10:36 PM
Ron, I don't understand "slinging".
david holmes
06-11-2006, 10:38 PM
I have found that you have to position the sawhorses under the blades at the spot where the string just passes over the mark, then put a once folded shop rag under the front of the blades on the sawhorses. On mine, this will put the string exactly over the scribed mark and the blades are SMOOTH.
Tom, This is not clear to me.
david holmes
06-11-2006, 10:41 PM
My stringing was perfect but I still had vibration. It went away when I removed and added shims under the teeter block. It's very easy to add shims, one doesn't even have to take the blades off.
My UW flies hands and feet off with only about 1/4" of total stick shake.
Aussie_Paul
06-12-2006, 01:30 AM
...1/4" stick shake in a singl seat gyroplane!!!! Certainly not acceptable, "your honor".
Aussie Paul.:)
Rehan K.Janjua
06-12-2006, 01:53 AM
Hello Mike.
Slinging does work. I tried it out and its much better now.
Thank you Ron.
Get ready for Zero stick shake.or less then 1/4" shake.
Paul, can you please elaborate. Sir.
Thank you.
Rehan
david holmes
06-12-2006, 03:24 AM
...1/4" stick shake in a singl seat gyroplane!!!! Certainly not acceptable, "your honor".
Aussie Paul.:)
It was so much better that I was happy. I'll add another shim. I have seen better in the past --- but I've seen lots worse also.
Still no answer to my questions about slinging, etc above
Aussie_Paul
06-12-2006, 03:32 AM
It was so much better that I was happy. I'll add another shim. I have seen better in the past --- but I've seen lots worse also.
Still no answer to my questions about slinging, etc above
Hi David, slinging/flinging is when you do not completely tighten the bolts for stringing. You then fly the blades down the runway at a couple of feet and then let them, slow down on their own. When they have stopped you carefully finish tightening the bolts and theoretically they are in their "sweetest" pattern position.
Did I explain it well enough to make sense??
Aussie Paul.:)
GyroRon
06-12-2006, 03:55 AM
here is the slinging thread http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=205
david holmes
06-12-2006, 04:27 AM
Aussie Paul,
yes thanks.
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