RAF owners/drivers (Part II) - standard RAF, stabilator, and friends (NON-POLL) [Archive]

davreich

02-28-2006, 08:29 PM

Hi,
We could start on that part list. Who's got the list and what is it missing? I know a couple guys in the past have upgraded or directly replaced the stock alternator. I know there are lots of little mods out there too. Dave

Here's my rotor supports. The base is a disk (farm) with a pipe, an expandable paint pole with a drywall sanding pad.

PW_Plack

02-28-2006, 08:44 PM

Dave,

Gary Kaminski of Chapter 73 put together a web page a couple years ago for RAF builders tips. There is also a section on recommendations for upgrades to OEM parts. Parts of it are now a little out of date, but there's some great info there:

Gary's Website (http://home.att.net/~raf2000owners/home.htm)

There's also a link to the greatest online gyroplane builder's log of all time, Tim Witham's RAF site.

AirHorse1

03-01-2006, 05:04 AM

Here is the current parts list. Same one that is on Gary's site. I havent really added anything as Im working on the keel mod.

Harry_S.

03-08-2006, 01:05 PM

OK Dave.

I finally figured it out.:confused: . Maybe.

This thread will be for the good guys who fly the RAF. The other thread will be for the non-believers who do not fly the RAF. Hint...Hint.

And this thread will be for the newbies who are considering owning and flying the RAF?!

Cheers :)

GyroRon

03-08-2006, 04:01 PM

OzyRuss

03-09-2006, 01:25 AM

There is a whole entire section on this forum for posts concerning RAF gyros. I don't understand why some of you feel the need to have one long thread with hundreds of posts to wade through instead of making one thread for one particular subject - such as a thread about what you are using to support the blades while hangared. You guys have a whole entire section here to work with.... Not to be disrespectful here, just making a common sence suggestion.

Arrrrrrrr.........Ron,

let THEM, do what THEY want to do here, THEIR thread, and maybe your views of commonsence, ain't the same as THEIRS.............so what.

I reckin if I began a thread how to grow avacadoes sideways, you'd be there trying to control it, or the format etc etc etc............fair go mate, let go the rope a tad.

I can see threads begun that will require a password to enter them, to keep unwanted folks out of them.............that would be a shame.

It is a shame that every day, there are literally hundreds of hits here, but the VAST majority do not participate here..........that sayin something or what.
Yes...........they are intimidated by some posters, and the BULK of postings are from a very small number of members.

GyroRon

03-09-2006, 04:21 AM

Russ I understand your point. It is just that in any other area of this forum if people want to discuss a certain topic they start a specific thread for that topic and hopefully that is all that is discussed there - Sure I know that alot of threads end up off topic or switching gears altogether but that is asides the point -

Look at all the GOOD info in Harrys last RAF thread " Raf owners and drivers " For someone wanting to learn from it that person would have to sift through several hundred posts that are about various issues with the RAF gyro. It makes for a long hard read and makes it harder to use the search feature. If there is a separate thread for each and every indivdual subject then the info posted there is easier for all to read and easier to search later and will be of greater benifit all everyone long term.

Look under the Sparrowhawk section of this forum.... notice that there is separate threads for each topic. Same with the Aircommand section, same with Dominator section, Same with rotorblades section, engines, avionics, etc....

I am sure alot of you RAF people will think I am just being a ass butting into your threads... Fair enough... But that is not my intention, I am just pointing out what seems obvious to me but maybe something some of you haven't considered.

Harry_S.

03-09-2006, 10:50 AM

Ron;

I see your point...and I agree...but...

We RAF'rs...owners, not RAF Marketing, would like it as is, but without interruptions.

Look back through a few RAF postings and you'll find that bashers, hi-jackers and non-contents jump right in. The intent of the thread is for people who are flying the RAF and those who are building and/or interested in building an RAF.

I don't think I have jumped into a specific thread, unless someone asked for general info or had a problem and asked for help. I have on occasion jumped into a thread, with some statistical data, in regards to a posting.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

03-15-2006, 10:47 AM

To the RAF pilots:

Saturday I replaced the Chinese bearings in the wheels for the third time.:mad: At the bearing store I told them I didn't want anymore Chinese bearings. I was told that China is the only supplier for this size bearing.:eek: Isn't that some shlt?!

Anyhow...while I had the wheel pants off, I thought I would take a couple photos of the mod I did on the inboard attach holes of the wheel fairings. This makes the removal/install of the pants real easy and fast.

I had previously posted this on the old thread, but, with no photos.

Cheers :)

Aussie_Paul

03-15-2006, 11:47 AM

Ooh, very nice Harry.

Give me the bearing size Harry, and I will see what is out here.

Aussie Paul.:)

KenSandyEggo

03-15-2006, 11:58 AM

I think your bearing house didn't want to admit they were out or just didn't stock that size from anyone else. The result would have been the same...."No Sale." I replaced mine with better bearings after the Chinese one's pooped. No, I don't remember the brand.

Harry_S.

03-15-2006, 12:36 PM

Oh...I forgot to mention that in the second (inside) photo of the wheel pant...the black stuff in the photo is the undercoating I sprayed inside the wheel fairings. Sound deadener, plus.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

03-17-2006, 11:32 AM

WHEEL BEARING.

The number of the Chinese bearing is...99502 H.

The dimensions are:
OD is 1 3/8"
ID is 5/8*...Hole Dia.
Thickness is 3/8*

.

whbriley

03-17-2006, 11:37 AM

Fellow RAF friends,

What paint have you used in the past to paint the nice designs that I see on some machines?? IS it done by brush, or by spray paints?? Would like to do some nose art on my bird. Any thoughts or ideas how you may have painted yours--RAF?? Thanks.

Bill Briley
North Carolina

Harry_S.

03-17-2006, 11:47 AM

I'm posting these pics for Tom.

Tom can come on in here and fill in the commentary.:)

Harry_S.

03-17-2006, 11:56 AM

Some more pics of Tom's machine mod.

paulp

03-17-2006, 12:21 PM

Harry,

I see the "OLD" new style seat tank and the "NEW" new style seat tank. How come? And, is the keel ext for mounting a HS?:confused:

Harry_S.

03-17-2006, 12:50 PM

Paul, I don't know. I posted these pics for Tom as he is still learning how to post attachments.

I'm sure he will come on here and explain those pics.;)

I have to admit, that seat tank looks cool. It's the first time I've seen one.

Cheers :)

tomhall

03-17-2006, 01:41 PM

Hi Guys, I will learn to post my own pic's soon, I promise ! Now, the black fiberglass seat/tank was a $ 1,500 option when I bought in 2002. I'm 6' - 4" and it sits lower. Several of these tanks developed leaks where the filler pipe meets the tank ( the wooden shims in the photo ). The RAF people aknowledged the problem and sent me the new plastic tank. It is somewhat translucent, so I will have a visual check on the fuel level. I installed two shut-off valves on the tank. The keel extension ( 18" ) is to accomodate my Don Parham H.S. My original installation simply used two cluster plate; I got a little vertical play, so I had a 12" sleeve made to go inside the 2 X 4 keel parts. I was able to use the two rear AN bolts that hold on the rudder as well. More later Tom Hall in MN

paulp

03-18-2006, 10:06 AM

Hope that this works

paulp

03-18-2006, 10:13 AM

Sorry about that. It may take a while but I'll get it figured out.(mabey):confused:

Chuck Roberg

03-18-2006, 11:00 AM

Paul, have you tried the tutorial to learn how to post pix?

http://www.rotaryforum.com/tutorial/graphics.html

paulp

03-18-2006, 01:34 PM

Howdy Chuck,

I didn't even know it was available!!!!:o I'll spend some time with it. I have just gotten a new digital camera and Kodak easy share software. I told the salesperson that I required something that was "EASY STUPID". He said that this was it. Oh well.....

The info about the photo imaging is much appreciated. Many thanks.:)

Papa Smurf

03-19-2006, 04:59 AM

WHEEL BEARING.

The number of the Chinese bearing is...99502 H.

The dimensions are:
OD is 1 3/8"
ID is 5/8*...Hole Dia.
Thickness is 3/8*

Timken S7K AS7K seems to be a direct replacement. AS7K is stainless steel. Available with several different seals. Regardless of manufactor this bearing is not very strong.

If you have room to enlarge the bore for the bearing OD to the 1.562 range then everyone has several much stronger options with all other dimensions staying the same.

Disclaimer: Use your own judgement as I know nothing about these wheels or axles. I just had the catalogs handy and looked this stuff up.

Harry_S.

03-19-2006, 07:19 AM

Paul, have you tried the tutorial to learn how to post pix?

http://www.rotaryforum.com/tutorial/graphics.html

Paul;

Here is an additional tutorial by Mike G. that I used when learning to post attachments. Dummy me found this easy to follow...after a while.
:rolleyes:

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1274

Cheers :)

LARRYEBOYER

03-19-2006, 07:25 AM

Hey Paul P. Whats the word on your flight tests?

LARRYEBOYER

03-19-2006, 08:00 AM

I know that the fixed wing topic is not a RAF topic but I am a RAF pilot with a new fun project I am making headway with. Can I indulge you with a few photos that show the progress so far.
At the pace this thing is coming together, I shoud test fly it next week!(would you believe next year?)

I read a comment about how easy it is to build a gyro. Let me go on the record as saying that it ain't so. This kitfox project is much easier.

Is it to late to put a rotor on this thing?

This has a rotax 912UL. What an easy engine to work with!A couple wires to the oil and water sensor. Tack wire, and ignition. A far cry from the wiring nightmare of a subie fuel injected engine and ecu.

LARRYEBOYER

03-19-2006, 08:14 AM

Here are a few more. I was especially impressed with the welded fusalage and its strength.

Harry_S.

03-25-2006, 10:53 AM

HIJACK?!:eek:

.

Harry_S.

03-25-2006, 12:24 PM

Last year at BD's, I took notice of a bottle of "Meguiar's Mirror Glaze" in Jim Logan's gyro trailer. I thought no more of it at that time as I had been cleaning my windscreen with water and Windex.

I did have some Novus bottles that I had not used, till Stan made mention that he was using the Novus method on his machine. Novus is real good at removing superficial marring, so is Meguiar's. I am more concerned about treating Lexan than just plastic. I have used the Novus method for several months and I found that the windscreen would look nice for a couple days and then start "clouding", which I didn't like.

I bought some Meguiar's a couple weeks ago. One bottle of Clear Plastic Cleaner and a bottle of Clear Plastic Polish.

Anyhoo...yesterday was a cold and real windy day, so, instead of flying, I decided to clean the front and back windscreens. I used the Meguiar's. WOWEE, what a difference. That windsreen has never had the clarity and sparkle it has now...and that is just on the outside surface. I still want to do the inside surface.

The cleaner compound dries out real quick so you can't do too big an area at a time. I would suggest 2-3 sq. ft. You can tell it's doing it's job by the sound, "squeak", as you are rubbing it off. The Polish goes on easy and rubs off easy and this really gives that Lexan a sparkle.:D Clean the entire windscreen and then polish it. It took about 30 min. for the outside surface.

The inside surface is going to be a bear for me, I think. I'll only do couple sq. ft. an hour. Arthritis, you know.;)

Meguiar's is one fine product for the Lexan...I believe.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

03-25-2006, 12:43 PM

I noticed after I made my last post here that the original RAF Owners thread is still getting hits...over 34,000 now.

Imagine...non RAF pilots caused it to be closed.:(

Who'da thunk it.

.

tomhall

03-26-2006, 04:53 AM

Guys, I called LP Aero, the folks who make our Lexan parts. I got a bottle of cleaner and some fancy wipes from them ! They said most of what they make is acrylic and the Lexan products are stronger, but softer. They said not to use any product that says it will remove scratches or hazing. It's about $17 for a bottle of goop and 50 wipes. Tom T. Hall

Harry_S.

03-26-2006, 12:19 PM

Stan; I used soft terry cloth to put it on...and soft terry cloth to buff it off.

Tom; It's a given, they will endorse only their products.:)

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

03-27-2006, 02:59 PM

Stan;

Today was windy and cold again.:mad: So, I started on the inside of the windscreen, using the Meguiar's Cleaner.

When I initially worked up the windscreen on assembly, I masked off 1 inch of the edge for painting. When removing the masking tape, I used Windex and paper towels to take the adhesive off.:( Result...superficial scratches around the entire edge.

I've used the Novus but with little success. Today, when using the Meguiar's, all the scratches are gone.:D Next, I will apply the polish to eliminate any static and to really give it a sparkle. This stuff is really good.

I've used Meguiar's paste wax on my car for I don't know how long and wouldn't use anything else.

Cheers

:)

tomhall

03-29-2006, 05:24 AM

I called Meguiars yesterday. The product they said would be best for Lexan is their : Plast -X Clear Plastic Cleaner. At $5 a bottle, I got two ! T. Hall

Harry_S.

03-29-2006, 12:32 PM

I called Meguiars yesterday. The product they said would be best for Lexan is their : Plast -X Clear Plastic Cleaner. At $5 a bottle, I got two ! T. Hall

Sounds good Tom.

Let usn's know what you think of it after you try it. The Meguiars cleaner I used did a fantastic job of removing superficial scratches but it left the surface with a bit of static charge. The polish application neutralized the static.

Cheers :)

LARRYEBOYER

03-30-2006, 09:20 AM

Harry, good advise on the plastic cleaner. I bought the novus 3 polish system. It claims it can remove scratches. I am not convinced of that.

( sorry for the hyjack) it was getting so dull on here so I posted something to liven things up a bit. Guess it didn't work.:eek:

Harry_S.

03-30-2006, 10:21 AM

Hi Larry;

I found out by using the Novus stuff that...I don't like it...it didn't do what they advertised, as regards superficial scratches.

I really am now a fan of this Meguiar's plastic cleaner and polish. It has made my fore and aft windscreens super clear and with a sparkle...beautiful.:D

I'm anxious to hear what Tom Hall comes up with when he tries that Plast X stuff. Tom should maybe rub a small spot at an upper edge of the windscreen with a paper towel:eek: to get some paper scratches. Then try out the Plast X and see if it removes those scratches?!:confused:

I will let you all know if my windscreens stay clear or if they tend to get cloudy after just a few days.:(

Cheers :)

airRanger

04-09-2006, 01:26 PM

GYRORON says:..............

[/QUOTE]I am sure alot of you RAF people will think I am just being a ass butting into your threads... Fair enough... But that is not my intention, I am just pointing out what seems obvious to me but maybe something some of you haven't considered.[/QUOTE]

Obviously, your just doing what come "Natural"?

Harry_S.

04-19-2006, 10:17 AM

Stan Foster, if you're on here...I did it!!!

After landing today and taxiing back to the hangar area...when rrpm slowed to about 50, I pulled on the rotor brake. The rpm didn't slow as much as it usually did, so I pulled a bit more on the brake handle and...it came off in my hand.:mad: It broke right thru the bolt hole.

I was thinking of making the new one out of steel rod when I remembered that you made yours of flat steel, I believe?! Anyhow, I'll make a new one from flat steel.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

04-19-2006, 10:33 AM

Well, it's been 3 weeks since I did my windscreen with the Meguires cleaner and polish.

Before today's flight, I eyeballed the lexan real good. It is as clear today as it was 3 weeks ago. That Meguires is some good stuff on lexan.;)

The Novus stuff would have developed a cloudy/hazy condition just a day or two after using it.

Tom T...Have you tried that Plast-X yet?

Cheers :)

tomhall

04-20-2006, 05:01 AM

Harry, I'll be polishing my windshield this week-end. The weather looks perfect ( for MN ) 60 degrees, sunshine and 6-8 mph " right down the runway ". Tom T. Hall

tomhall

04-23-2006, 02:25 PM

I did a slow & careful pre-flight today. Especially looking at the rear stop bolt/nut on the rotor head assembly. I put some orange torque seal on it and plan to somehow safety wire it. Harry, I used the Maguiers polish / cleaner on the windscreen and the whole thing " disappeared "; it looked invisible ! Good stuff. I then went out and logged 1.3 hrs. 70 degrees and 10 mph right down runway 34. Spring in Minnesota is a great thing to behold from above ! Tom T. Hall in MN

Harry_S.

04-24-2006, 11:24 AM

Tom...Great to hear your back into flyin' weather again.

Tom, did you use the Meguiras' Plast-X you told us about or the 2 part cleaner and polish? You don't have to sell me on the cleaner and polish...it really is super on Lexan. Like you said...it made it disappear.;)

CFWMDF
Cheers :)

tomhall

04-24-2006, 01:28 PM

Plast - X !

Harry_S.

04-26-2006, 01:00 PM

Very succinct Tom.:D

How did it work? Easy on...easy off? Did it remove any superficial scratches you had? Did it leave any static behind?

Would you let us know what it looks like in a week...whether it attracted dust...if it became cloudy or hazy, etc.?

Would you happen to know if this Plast-X is available over the counter at general outlets?

CFWMDF
Cheers :)

Harry_S.

04-28-2006, 01:54 PM

Tom...Tom...are you there Tom?!:D

I was at the airport when you called yesterday. Sorry I missed your call.

I was working on my new rotor brake handle. I painted it yesterday and finished up the installation today. Too late to fly...besides, I put a little more spring in the main axle, too.

So...anything new to give us on the use of the Plast-X? I was going to *try* Meguiars web for info on where to buy this stuff...but haven't done it yet.:(

CFWMDF
Cheers :)

CLS447

04-29-2006, 12:53 AM

Harry, up here it is available at Auto Zone for about 5 bucks a bottle.

Harry_S.

04-29-2006, 11:55 AM

Hey...thanks for that Chris. I go right past an Auto Zone on the way to the airport. I'll check it out.;)

CFWMDF
Cheers :)

Harry_S.

04-30-2006, 12:31 PM

Just got home from my patrol. I want to post this before I forget, again.

The other day when I added some more spring to the main axle...the first time was, hummm, 'bout seven years ago...I found quite a bit of corrosion and rust on the rod end shank, the jam nut and the ball itself was locked by rust. These are the rod ends at the axle brackets...the other end is up on the mast.I liberally sprayed Corrosion X and they free'd up. Afterwards, I sprayed X on the other rod ends that are below the engine.

Now, I don't fly in the rain. I don't wash my machine with water. I know I have taxied and landed on wet grass, at times, so the metal has been subjected to moisture over the years.

This was/is an eye opening for me. Who knows when these rod ends would fail and possibly cause an accident?:eek: Corrosion X is good for up to two yrs....but I will apply it at these rod ends at every 25 hr. maintenance.;)

CFWMDF
Cheers :)

rmcfly

05-03-2006, 05:51 PM

Harry_S.

05-04-2006, 07:38 AM

Just a word of caution regarding meguiars Plast-X, I would not recommend using it as a maintenance product. Plast-X has a micro abrasive in it and would be a little to aggressive for regular use. The professional cleaner and polish that Harry is using have no abrasives in them and is what would be recommended.

Russ

I'm glad you brought that up Russ.

I picked up a bottle of PlastX yesterday for $3.99 at Auto Zone. Thanks Chris.

After reading your post above, I checked the bottles. PlastX does have micro abrasives and the professional bottle has a "unique non-abrasive formula."

Maybe if you have some minor scratches, use the PlastX to get rid of them and use the professional stuff for your normal cleaning and polishing.

Thanks Russ.

CFWMDF
Cheers :)

rmcfly

05-05-2006, 07:08 PM

Harry_S.

05-06-2006, 10:21 AM

Harry,

After purchasing the professional cleaner and polish and having great results, why did you go out and get the plast-x? Just curious. Were you hopeing it would be easier to use or looking for better results?

Russ

Logical query, Russ.

I had purchased the PlastX before your first post. I was interested in comparing the two after Tom T lauded the results he had with the PlastX.

I think we all appreciate your heads up as to the micro abrasives in the PlastX. My windscreens are perfect right now and I will use the 2 part Meguiars for maintenance purposes, but, if I get some new scratches, I may use the PlastX to clear up the scratches.

I will also have something...the PlastX...to help some of the other rats at the airport that may have some windscreen problems?!

CFWMDF
Cheers :)

tomhall

05-06-2006, 04:49 PM

It seems the Plast - x should be an occasional use product followed by the cleaner and polisher. Somewhat like sharpening a knife: coarser grit followed by finer. I have the Maguier's non-abrasive cleaner and polisher " in the mail ".

Harry_S.

06-03-2006, 03:34 PM

I had a thought about posting pictures of our machines in this thread so we could look and drool maybe, about other paint schemes, for example.

Here's mine. How 'bout adding yours?!

Cheers :)

Timchick

06-03-2006, 06:47 PM

Harry,
I think you're onto something. I wonder if there's a way Todd could make it so we could post a photo of our gyros on our profile page?

OzyRuss

06-03-2006, 08:35 PM

Arrrrrrrr...........mine came out of the crate, as a "RAF"

But will be a whole lot different, when it get's into the air....

Stepped keel,CLT,tall tail,single strut suspension, etc etc

Will it qualify to be posted as a RAF ??????????????:confused:

:D

Harry_S.

06-04-2006, 07:37 AM

Russ...An RAF is an RAF, even if it has extra quills added.:cool:

Wouldn't it be nice if we had a hundred or so photo's of individual's machines.;)

Tim...great idea. Could the photo be a thumbnail to the bio...then it could be enlarged?!

Todd?!

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

06-04-2006, 11:07 AM

Thanks Stan.

It's a little early but...Red seems to be the predominate color.:D

Cheers :)

whbriley

06-04-2006, 06:23 PM

animal

06-04-2006, 07:32 PM

I would love to post sum, but my photos are too large and I dont have a program to shrink my RAF shots that I have. If I can figure out how to make them small I will post some.

Here ya go Bill,here is the one you sent me to resize for your avitar. feel free to send any others you would like resized.

OzyRuss

06-05-2006, 01:03 AM

You chaps running these 2.5's soobs

What box ratio
What prop size and pitch
What prop

thanks...............

whbriley

06-05-2006, 06:47 AM

Aussie_Paul

06-05-2006, 06:53 AM

You chaps running these 2.5's soobs

What box ratio2.47 to 1
What prop size and pitch76" diameter
What propGeez Russell, not giving all my secrets away!!!:rolleyes:

thanks...............

Hey Russ, clear you outlook inbox. I am trying to send you stuff.

Aussie Paul.:)

Harry_S.

06-05-2006, 07:10 AM

I would love to post sum, but my photos are too large and I dont have a program to shrink my RAF shots that I have. I dont have any from the air right now because I just like to go out and fly for the most part. If I can figure out how to make them small I will post some.

I see Tim H. has already posted your photo.:)

If you, or any other fella's have a sizing problem, e-mail your photo's to me and I'll be glad to re-size and post for you.

That's one thing I have learned from Mike's Posting 101, which is now a "sticky."

Cheers :)

animal

06-05-2006, 07:52 AM

Bill How many hours do you have on your machine yet? also just wondering how long did it take you to learn to land Garys RAF. I have 12 hours in it and still could not land it by my self. was just wondering if it was me, or his machine. I just know it discourged the heck out of me. and like I said if ya have any pics you want resized just send the to ncra@bellsouth.net and I will be glad to resize them. glad to hear you are enjoying your Gyro.

whbriley

06-05-2006, 08:01 AM

Tim,
I was a gyro retard so it took me longer. I did 25 hrs of instruction with Gary, and have 10 hrs or so in my machine. I came very close to giving up several times after leaving training sessions. I spent a lot of money on training, but at least I kept with it and didnt give up. I dont really get too scared anymore when flying, I just fear an engine out. I know what to do, but that scares me more than anything.

Harry_S.

06-05-2006, 08:58 AM

Bill...IMO, you don't have enough solo hours yet to not feel *scared* when you're flying...which is good. As your time builds , you will become a little less *scared.*

I have many, many hours in gyro's and I still think an engine out can happen at any time. Even now, I will not fly over a large stretch of in-hospitable *stuff* that I cannot see a place where I could put 'er down. I generally fly 4-500 ft. AGL so I usually skirt a lot of stuff. Most of my flying is just meandering around anyway. There are some large sections of forest that I fly over, so I would go up to 1500-2000 ft. which would allow me to glide clear of the trees, if the motor went silent.

I fly relaxed, but...I am aware where the wind is and always eyeballing a spot that I could put her down on...if I had to.

This soob has never even burped, but the experiences I had with the MAC 72 some years back, made me a little edgy.

So, fly easy and if you feel comfortable enough, practice some partial engine outs over the runway to a landing.

Cheers :)

animal

06-05-2006, 08:59 AM

well thats make me not feel so bad about my progress I had made. yeah the Engine out thoughts are not fun to think about,Gary kept showing me places where he had to set down before when his crank shaft broke. things like that don't calm the nerves..lol I think stan has the right Idea,he practices emergancy landing alot,and from reading his posts I would say it has paid off.

Harry_S.

06-05-2006, 09:22 AM

Tim...Bill...practice something every time you fly. Do a couple circuits in the pattern...full stops or TG. Get away from the airport and find a good straight road and do a series of turns across the road.

Find a nice big tree and fly some big circles around that tree. It's okay to make extra engine noises...and to be critical of your turns. Have fun doing it. If it's not going too great...don't fight it...break it off and go fly somewhere else.

Have fun while building on your experience.;)

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

06-05-2006, 10:03 AM

Tim,
Thanks. I have added some graphics to my tail and some trim so she looks pretty.
She is still a little tail heavy on take offs. The previous owner put a lot of stuff back there and I have tried every hole to make it not drag its butt on take off but it seems to do it about 5 out of 10 take offs. I hold it down to 60 but its a fight because she wants to lift off way before that. I dont mind it because I expect it now so its not an issue. What is crazy is how different mine flys compared to Garys machine. They all fly different I guess.

Bill...If I'm seeing right, from your avatar, you have a KJ stab on there?! Well, I have that barn door on my machine too. It's a very effective stab. A good one.

Your takeoffs will smooth out and improve with experience. What number hole in the cam, are you now in?

In your post above, you say you fight to hold it down on the ground at 60 mph?! Don't do that flying solo, Bill. Hold it till 60 when flying two people...but not solo, OK?

Your ship is trying to do it right for you. When you have a good rrpm, she will rock back on the tail wheel...you will get the feel, with experience, of when to put forward pressure to the stick to get balanced on the mains.
Keep the wheels on the ground till you reach at least 40-45 mph and she will get light and lift off. A bit of forward pressure to the stick to keep the pitch down so as to gain airspeed...at 55-60, a bit of backstick to climb out at that 55-60.

Cheers :)

whbriley

06-05-2006, 02:33 PM

Harry_S.

06-05-2006, 04:36 PM

Now, that is really different than flying solo. I was under the impression that you were solo...which you are, but with a simulated passenger added.

You were doing it right. Keep the nosewheel with ground contact, for steering and let the aircraft fly itself off.

What number cam hole are you currently in?

I really don't understand what you mean when you say your butts dragging on some of the takeoffs?! Are these succeeding takeoffs in the same day or on different days with different conditions?

Has your instructor flown with you in your machine?

Lots of questions.:(

.

Aussie_Paul

06-05-2006, 05:32 PM

Harry,
I have the 150 pounds of sand in the right seat so thats why Im doing it the same way as I was taught. I was never taught to rock the machine back before take off. The only way that I know is to keep the front wheel on the ground and let the machine fly off at or around 55. Gary's machine would not drag its butt like mine does every once in a while. We tried every hole--literally to no avail. It is still heavy back there with the big stab, the electric trim etc. I have thought about getting a smaller stab, but this one flys very smooth and I never seem to be "chasing it" or anything. She will hang at 75 hands off for the most part.

Bill, you need to move the main gear axle back 3". The heavy stab you have makes it neccessary. From my experience with Rafs with all different mods, even in stock condition the axle should be 2" further back.

I can send you the scematics as to how to conduct this simple and easy mod. Also, run the mast in the most upright position (4)and reset the head angles.

Aussie Paul.:)

whbriley

06-06-2006, 06:40 AM

Paul,

Sure, send me the info. thank you.

Gary_in_Orygun

06-06-2006, 10:58 AM

It would also be useful to do a hang test and see if the nose down angle with 5 gal and pilot is around the recommended 7.5 degrees.

Harry_S.

06-07-2006, 12:20 PM

Paul,

Sure, send me the info. thank you.

Bill...may I respectfully suggest that you attain/obtain many more hours of experience in flying your machine as you are now accustomed, before you make any major modifications.

A relocation of main landing gear, is in my opinion, a major mod.

Just my suggestion.

Cheers
:)

animal

06-09-2006, 05:12 AM

Tim,
Thanks. I have added some graphics to my tail and some trim so she looks pretty.

here is a Pic Bill sent me of the tail on his gyro now since he added the graphics. Gee I bet Tina will like this one.

paulp

06-09-2006, 04:57 PM

Howdy Tribe,

Has anyone had any experience with an inside mounted dipole antenna? I would like some input before I spend $140.00. I'm not too excited about a belly mounted bent whip and I really don't care about mounting a Margolan Cessna style on the keel.(ascetics mostly).

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

KenSandyEggo

06-09-2006, 06:14 PM

Paul, I had two on my RAF/S-H for 500 hours and flew out of a towered airport at over 100 hours per year for the first few years. The area was hilly and I was almost always behind some hill on call-up when coming in. It was the best antenna I ever used. The reception and output were superb. I also had the shorter one for the transponder. Mine were made by "Advanced Aircraft Electronics" and are listed for $124.95 in Spruce's catalogue. A great investment in my opinion.

paulp

06-09-2006, 06:42 PM

Howdy Ken,

Thanks for the quick response. That is the company that I have talked to.

How and where did you mount yours and was it exactly vertical? I was thinking about mounting it on the door post or possibly behind the seat.

Would really appreciate any input. I'm desprate at this point.

Thanks again

PW_Plack

06-09-2006, 10:44 PM

Paul, last year I posted some pictures of an installation of one of these dipoles in Don Stewart's Sport Copter Vortex:

Dipole in Sport Copter (http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5803)

Don says this antenna, mounted with velcro so it's removeable, has now been in three different aircraft!

This antenna will work best if you can find a way to run the coax away from it at a 90-degree angle for at least a couple feet.

KenSandyEggo

06-10-2006, 03:29 AM

PualP, I did mount it on the door post. Some of it even ran onto the floor and under the rudder-mount "dish," yet worked great. I had the connector right at the bottom of the instrument panel. I also put it behind the carpeting under the panel.

paulp

06-10-2006, 05:29 AM

Ken & paul,

Many thanks for the info. I will order one from AS this am. I think that this will work.

Again, the help is much appreciated.:)

Harry_S.

06-10-2006, 09:15 AM

Hi Paul; Just getting on the PC here. Ken has already given a good endorsement for the AAE dipole ant.

I ended up getting one about 6 yrs. ago. It's performed perfectly. I have the carpeting on the door posts so I just stuck the velcro *hooks* on the ant. in 3 places and it sticks right to the carpeting, no problem.

I installed the ant. with the connector just clear of the MIP, on the R/H door post. I figured if I didn't like the connector showing...I could move it down, out of sight. I think only one passenger asked what that connector was. Most never even noticed it. Removing the BNC connector was easy, when I had to remove the MIP for some work.

If you don't have carpeting on the door post, the velcro *crooks* will stick to the plastic real good.

All in all Paul, I think you will like the AAE ant.

Cheers :)

paulp

06-10-2006, 11:27 AM

Howdy Harry,

Thanks for the info. I already have the carpet in place. My plan is to remove the carpet, as necessary, and mount the balun out of sight behind the dash and then replace the carpet. I'll probably mount the transponder antenna at the same time so I won't have to cover(uncover) the same area again.

Again, thanks for the input.

paulp

06-17-2006, 05:27 PM

Ken, Paul & Harry,

Yaw'll did GOOD!!!! I installed the dipole antenna(com) and it is OUTSTANDING. I would highly recommend it(them?) to anyone with a composite or fabric aircraft. Transmission and reception are excellent.:D

Harry_S.

06-18-2006, 06:48 AM

PaulP...glad to have another satisfied driver.;) Happy camper, too.

I think the AAE antennae sell themselves...by word of mouth, that is.

They really are a great addition or improvement for communications.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

06-24-2006, 07:25 AM

Harry, has that Ken J stab got any negative AoA compared to the keel, and what position do you run your mast in?

Aussie Paul.
__________________
Paul Bruty's Firebird Gyroplanes

Paul B. asked this question in the Photo thread and I'd like to answer it here.

I wrote my experience with the installation of my stab in another thread...which I cannot locate now. Maybe some good samaritan could find it for me.:cool: I had some major problems with flight testing that installation.

Anyway, before I installed the stab, I flew in hole #3...that is the second most upright position. No problems.

After I installed the stab properly, I moved to hole #4...the most upright position. No problems.

The stab as now installed has no incidence either direction...is level with the keel...as best I can tell with bubble leveling.

Because most of my flying now is solo and I have shed some *poundage*, I have moved back to #3 hole. No problems.:)

I consider the Ken J. stab very effective in attitude control and improved performance.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

06-28-2006, 01:14 PM

Not adding anything to prior posts...

Was at the airport this morning, early, preflighted, checked the camera, deleted all the previous photos, battery in full charge.

Mounted up, taxied out, took off and flew about.:D

I was so enthralled with what was going on, on the ground, on the hi-ways, in the pastures, everywhere I looked...that I didn't think about the camera until I was taxiing back to the hangar.

I had a beautiful flight and can't post any pictures.:(

You know...you forget about pre-arranged things as you get older. I thank GOD that I am able to say that.

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

06-29-2006, 06:55 AM

Hi Guys

I just got off the phone with Peter at RAF. He said that the ignition system that I had gotten with my kit was fried. They are going to replace it at a greatly reduced cost. So I should have my motor going this weekend. I asked them to put it in UPS for next day delivery. I will keep you posted on my progress.

I had not grounded it properly. Something about the anodized components.

Harry hope to be in the air soon also. I want to have that same problem

Harry_S.

06-29-2006, 12:01 PM

Thom...

Take your time...I'm sure we'll see plenty photos from you.

Do you have any of your machine that you can post now?! If you have posted any before...I'm sorry if I missed 'em.:(

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

06-29-2006, 05:21 PM

Harry

I have tried to post them but it doesn't seem to want to take them

Thom

Chuck Roberg

06-29-2006, 06:00 PM

Thom I suggest you try the image tutorial for posting pictures here.

http://www.rotaryforum.com/tutorial/graphics.html

dragonflyerthom

06-29-2006, 06:21 PM

Well I have read the primer so here goes

asmuzsr

06-29-2006, 09:13 PM

If I was closer to retirement(3 1/2 years to go) and had the money I'll have then it would have been gone the first night.;)

animal

06-30-2006, 04:22 AM

Dragon flyer, it's looking good, keep us posted with progress pics.

Harry_S.

06-30-2006, 09:41 AM

DRUMRolll...Thom, you did it.:D

I was going to suggest that you e-mail 'em to me and I would post 'em for you. Now that you can post your pics, we can look forward to more.;)

Just looking at your head on shot, it looks like you could add a little spring in that axle. If you want, I can tell you how to do it, real quick and easy.:)

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

06-30-2006, 11:15 AM

I would like to thank Todd for bringing the original RAF Owner/Driver Thread, back as a *sticky.*

Today, I made note that there have been some 2-3,000 more hits on that thread since it was stopped in Feb. I would like to think that the majority of those hits were by RAF owners or fans of the RAF. There is a lot of good info in that thread.

Now, if you like this new thread...why not rate it. You can do this by clicking on the Rate This Thread box, at the top and post it.;)

Let's have you RAF owners come on board and post your pics, info, questions or whatever?!:)

Thank you.

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

06-30-2006, 11:16 AM

Harry

I am sure I will always listen to your suggestions. Yes i would like to add a little spring

Harry_S.

07-01-2006, 07:19 AM

Thom;

E-mail your phone no. and I will talk you through the *spring* thingy and follow it up with an e-mail, OK?!

Cheers :)

Aussie_Paul

07-01-2006, 07:47 AM

Thom;

E-mail your phone no. and I will talk you through the *spring* thingy and follow it up with an e-mail, OK?!

Cheers :)

You have me intrigued with this "spring" thingy Harry.

Aussie Paul.:)

dragonflyerthom

07-01-2006, 07:59 AM

Harry

Call me. I am waiting your call or give me your number and I will call you.

Harry_S.

07-02-2006, 07:40 AM

You have me intrigued with this "spring" thingy Harry.

Aussie Paul.:)

It's a simple way of putting a convex bow in the main axle, Paul.

RAF suggested fabricating a cumbersome *tool* to accomplish this bowing. I use a method whereby it's done in less than 30 min.

It also lessens wear on the inside tread of the tires.

Cheers :)

Aussie_Paul

07-02-2006, 03:17 PM

It's a simple way of putting a convex bow in the main axle, Paul.

RAF suggested fabricating a cumbersome *tool* to accomplish this bowing. I use a method whereby it's done in less than 30 min.

It also lessens wear on the inside tread of the tires.

Cheers :)

Ah ha, got it. I jack the center of the axle until the wheels can be 2" off the ground. I get a fatter than me guy to sit on one wheel while I sit on the other wheel, take out the bolt, lengthen the rod eng and then jump up and down a little sitting on my wheel until I get the bolt back. Then we change sides.

Aussie Paul.:)

Gary_in_Orygun

07-02-2006, 04:42 PM

Attached is a picture how I put in the bow with a hydraulic jack and some wood blocks (a 4x4 beam under the axle, with some blocks under each tire to get the axle high enough to get the jack under the center). This is a very controlled way to jack up the center, with the ends of the axle strapped to the base 4x4 with tow straps.

dragonflyerthom

07-02-2006, 04:51 PM

Hi Gary

That seems like a fairly easy way to get the Bow. How much do you bow it (3 turns.????)

Thom

Live the DREAM

RonK

07-03-2006, 03:23 AM

dragonflyerthom

07-03-2006, 04:00 AM

Ron

The RAF doesn't have any shocks. The bow is to reduce the amount of shock to the keel and mass when landing. Apparently it also reduces the inside wear on the main tires

Harry_S.

07-03-2006, 07:20 AM

Ah ha, got it. I jack the center of the axle until the wheels can be 2" off the ground. I get a fatter than me guy to sit on one wheel while I sit on the other wheel, take out the bolt, lengthen the rod eng and then jump up and down a little sitting on my wheel until I get the bolt back. Then we change sides.

Aussie Paul.:)

You got the main idea Paul but...there's no need to jump up and down on the wheel.

You will need to push down on the wheel a bit to align the holes, to insert the bolt.

Good thinking.;)

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

07-03-2006, 07:39 AM

I have been following this thread since it began. But, I must have missed WHY does one put in the "spring" into the main axel? I now understand how, the pic uas very useful, but missed why. Please help.
Currently building and hope to be fiying in Aug.
Ron
Ft. Pierce FL

Hi Ron;

Welcome.

Thom pretty well hit on it as to why we put a *bit* of spring in the axle. If not, the inside tread wear will be real bad in a short period...if your using hard surface runways.

Are you building an RAF? Will be glad to help you, if you have any questions?!

Cheers :)

Aussie_Paul

07-03-2006, 07:52 AM

You got the main idea Paul but...there's no need to jump up and down on the wheel. Being such a light weight Harry, I have to jump up and down on the wheel.

You will need to push down on the wheel a bit to align the holes, to insert the bolt.

Good thinking.;)

Cheers :)

Regards, Aussie Paul.:)

RonK

07-03-2006, 07:54 AM

Harry, thanks for your offer, Yes, an RAF. Dofin is actually building it right now and we have added the air command H stab. Otherwise it is going to be stock.
Been listening here for some time but now it is getting time to learn to fly a gyro. Dofin is CFI in Aug.
Give me a call, or let me know your number and I will call
Ron Knaggs
772 429 1241
ronn1gyx on skype.

Harry_S.

07-03-2006, 08:54 AM

Ron;

Say Hello to Dofin for me. He's a good instructor.

Harry S.
352-624-1675

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

07-03-2006, 01:10 PM

Harry S

Great talking with you the AM. I just returned from Little Rock . Had to go to DHL there since they only deliver here on Tues and Thurs. Thanks for the INFO.

Thom

Live the DREAM

Chuck_Ellsworth

07-03-2006, 01:38 PM

Harry S. Said:

" Say Hello to Dofin for me. He's a good instructor. "

Am I to understand that Dofin now teaches his students that stability is a must for safety and he no longer teaches in the Ask First Society cult mindset that a H.S. is not needed on a stock RAF?

If so that is a good thing.

Chuck E.

Aussie_Paul

07-03-2006, 01:58 PM

Is the Ask First still in existance? Their website is closed down and the domain name up for grabs.

Aussie Paul.:)

asmuzsr

07-03-2006, 09:24 PM

If you don't put a little bow in the axle the weight of the machine will cause it to bow down, hence the inside wear on the tires as others have said.

dragonflyerthom

07-04-2006, 05:41 AM

Good point Tony.

dragonflyerthom

07-04-2006, 05:44 AM

You know Guy

I think my wife might be a little jealous of my Gyro. When the ignition burned up on my engine I came inside and stayed on the puter for hours. She was happy talked a lot.. When it came in yesterday and I went back to my shop she got all pugged up.

Any thoughts

Harry_S.

07-04-2006, 06:32 AM

Your machine is a better performer when flying solo,Thom.:D :rolleyes:

How did that 1st engine run come out?!

Cheers :)

Timchick

07-04-2006, 07:57 AM

If you don't put a little bow in the axle the weight of the machine will cause it to bow down, hence the inside wear on the tires as others have said.

Once it bows down can you just invert it to get the correctly bowed axle?

Harry_S.

07-04-2006, 08:15 AM

Once it bows down can you just invert it to get the correctly bowed axle?

That would be possible to do Tim...but would require a lot of time and work, eg, remove the wheels, reverse the brake arms, re-hook, etc.

Much easier to spend 30 min. and put the bow in during construction.;)

Cheers :)

asmuzsr

07-05-2006, 12:49 AM

Harry_S.

07-05-2006, 08:26 AM

If it's already bowed down you can still jack it up and put pressure on it and lengthen the struts. It's not any harder to do. Mine was like that, Dofin noticed it when he came to check out the machine and me. Mine had been sitting like that for 3 years and we did it easily.

If it's excessively bowed, as the result of hard landings...and it's possible the wheel axles are also bent...then I would suggest a new main axle be installed and then bowed. New wheel axles would be needed as well.

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

07-08-2006, 06:31 PM

Guys

You know that feeling of excitement when you are on final. The runway is rushing up at you at 55 to 60. That is how I feel every time I get on the RAF forum.

How about you.???

Thom

Arburola

07-13-2006, 11:58 AM

I need information of the different horizontal stabilizers for the RAF2000.
Who manufactures them, which it is better and where I can buy it.
Thank you[/b]

Minor Arburola
marburola@ice.co.cr

Timchick

07-13-2006, 07:00 PM

I think someone recently was talking about putting an Air Command Hstab on their RAF. Here's a link to Air Command's Hstab.

http://www.aircommand.com/Large%20Horizontal.htm

I'm sure some of the RAF pilots will add some more thoughts on this type Hstab.

Harry_S.

07-14-2006, 11:08 AM

Welcome Minor;

If you're going to fly with the doors installed, you will definitely want winglets on the stab. Otherwise, you will be playing pitty-pat with the rudder pedals.:(

I've never installed the doors on my machine and I fly with a flat stab...no problems.

Other RAF'rs that fly with doors and stabs with winglets, will have to give their opinion, on their set-up.

Guys?

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

07-14-2006, 12:03 PM

My chiro man came back from vacation on Mon. and I saw him on Tue. AM.

He fixed me up, albeit with much pain afterward. Anyways, I felt civil again on Wed. Went back to see him yesterday for another *treatment*, they call it *manipulation* and this AM I felt like I could go, fly.:)

In my rush to the airport...I forgot my fully charged camera:( ...and it was a beautiful morning. We have had a lot of needed rain in the past week or so and everything was greened up. Would have made for some nice pics.:o

I thoroughly enjoyed what I was doing until a felt a twinge in my hip area. Not wanting to go thru another bout with that hip so soon, I reluctantly headed back to the airport. The flight was only 25 min...but it was great.

Right now, 6 hrs. after the flight...the hip feels good.:D I plan on flying Mon. AM.;)

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

07-14-2006, 05:28 PM

Harry

You go guy. My dad said a man needs something to look forward to. He retired in 1991 and all he did was work on the property. My step mom died in July 93 at age 59 and my dad passed away in Sep 93. He lost his need to do something I guess.

In Jun of this year I turned 59. Some days I don't feel old but others I do. I am very active. Raising horses, building my Gyro, riding my Goldwing, and just doing the things I want to do. I work everyday, sleep good for 6-7 hours eat right don't drink or do drugs actually I have an aversion for any kind of medication. but I do smoke. I hunt, don't fish, fix fence around the farm and bush hog my property every month. I would like to live to be a hundred but if I can't fly I don't know if it would be worth it.

You just keep busy. Have lots to look forward to and don't wear yourself out.

I look forward to meeting you one of these day

Thom

WHUBBS

07-14-2006, 06:57 PM

dragonflyerthom

07-14-2006, 07:03 PM

WHUBBS

Don't worry about that until the hang test. Everything will be set up then. You seem to be getting ahead of your self. Just go by the book, watch the vids and you will be ok. By the way If all you can get is 16 degrees you are ok. I believe the book says to use the 3rd cam hole. Double check that

Thom

KenSandyEggo

07-14-2006, 07:55 PM

Once done, be sure to Lok-Tite and safety wire those adjusting bolts. If one works loose, it can cause loss of control, fore and/or aft. Very critical.

Harry_S.

07-15-2006, 08:24 AM

could someone help please, i am building an raf2000 and about ready to install the engine just after i install the A/C HS with winglets. i was checking the rotor head degree angle and trying to set it to 19 dg. and one dg. negative and found the back adjusting bolt and stop nut will only adjust to 16 dg. while i can get the front bolt adjusted to one dg. neg. but the front bole is screwed out about one inch. while the back bold is all way in. i have the legacy engine 2.2 and the book said to use the 4 th cam hole, which i did.

any suggestions as to what my problem is.

thanks in advance.

wayne

Hi Wayne and welcome.

We have a lot going on here, don't we?! Let's take a little at a time, OK.

Why are you installing the stab now? I think you would have more room to move around if you installed the engine first...no big deal, but I need lots of elbow room when I work.:D

I wouldn't worry about that head adjustment yet, anyway, you will have an RAF CFI come and check your machine out and rig it for flight, then test fly it, right?? I would strongly suggest you do this.

On the cam hole. This will be determined mostly at your hang test. Most RAF's are flying in the #3 hole. How much do you weigh, Wayne?

As Thom said...the book and videos will help but if you can't find an answer there, well, bring it here...maybe we can help you.;)

Cheers :)

PS...What is your kit no.? It's the last three digits of your contract no.

dragonflyerthom

07-15-2006, 10:27 AM

Harry S

You are always the Gentleman.

Thom

WHUBBS

07-15-2006, 11:16 AM

Harry_S.

07-15-2006, 01:08 PM

thanks for all your help KEN, HARRY AND THOM. to answer some of your questions, my serial # is 527 and i bought the kit from a fellow in CA. which was 2001 kit that was still in the box. i started putting it together 6-5-06 and have got alone pertty good todate with no major problems.

i will safety wire the two stop bolts and loc-tite also.

no i will not be installing the h/s until i get the engine mounted because i also have the two foot extension to put on first and install the tail wheel.

we have a new gyro instructor in tennessee. he instructs in a S/H mod. raf and also in a real S/H. not sure at this time if i will get him to help me set up the machine or MR. RON MENZIE, but again i will talk to RON i hope at the mentone air show. i assumed one would have to haul the gyro to their place but i have never ask that question to anyone.

thanks

wayne

It's great to have you with us Wayne. I'm sure you have had a fun time (I hope) with your build so far. You will have more fun as you get closer to completion.

Who is the CFI in your state? I know of Ron M. (with the muscles), excellent CFI. I met him a couple times way back when, when we got into gyros about the same time.

I see by your bio that you're not new to gyro flying, that's good...but may I caution you...get thoroughly checked out in your RAF. With the AC/Parham stab it's a pretty stable machine, but...It's still a *lead sled.*

We're here to help you Wayne and glad to do so.;)

Cheers :)

WHUBBS

07-15-2006, 07:17 PM

HARRY, i sure do appreciate you and the other fellows helping me on my project and i do really enjoy building it, but the best of all is knowing folks like yourself and the others guys are there when we newer folks need help or advice. i lined up about 20 gyro students here at sparta tennessee and ask Greg Gremminger to come here and give all of them instructions a couple of years ago, for 10 days, and that has turned out three more gyro pilots that possibly would have never flown a gyro if it had not been for GREG. we sure kept him busy and in the air during that ten days except for some of the storms during that time.

one of the students was LARRY BANKS now he has become a gyro instructor and he is the only one in Tenn. LARRY is also a fix wing instructor and has been for years. he teaches in a mod. raf. with sparrow hawk conversion and also teaches in a real S/H.

i am new to sending messages on this forum and would send a photo of my progress but not sure how to get it done but i will work on it.

thanks again HARRY.

Wayne

Harry_S.

07-16-2006, 06:08 AM

Harry S

You are always the Gentleman.

Thom

Aawww...shucks.:o

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

07-16-2006, 06:22 AM

i am new to sending messages on this forum and would send a photo of my progress but not sure how to get it done but i will work on it.

Wayne

Wayne...e-mail your photos to me and I'll post 'em for you.

Meantime, look this site over. It'll help you to post pics.

http://www.rotaryforum.com/tutorial/graphics.html

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

07-17-2006, 06:12 PM

Harry S

Check your PM

Thom

Harry_S.

07-18-2006, 01:32 PM

Harry S

Check your PM

Thom

I did Thom. Nothing new from you.:confused:

Wanna try again?!

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

07-18-2006, 03:32 PM

Wayne;

The graphic inserts are up and working again on this helpfull tutorial for adding pics to your posts.

If you care to...you can e-mail your pics to me for posting, till you get the hang of it?!

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1274

Cheers :)

OzyRuss

07-18-2006, 11:53 PM

You better believe it, this started life as a "RAF".........now we giving it a "makeover".........ozy style. Lots more pickies to come.

Harry_S.

07-19-2006, 06:46 AM

AAhhh...interesting Russ.

I wanna see more pics.:D

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

07-19-2006, 06:52 AM

Russ

What kind of redrive is that????

Thom

Harry_S.

07-19-2006, 07:00 AM

I'm posting these pics for Wayne. He will post more pics when he gets back from Mentone...and when he works thru the *tutorial.*;)

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

07-19-2006, 07:12 AM

More pics by Wayne Hubbs.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

07-19-2006, 07:19 AM

More pics by Wayne Hubbs.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

07-19-2006, 12:22 PM

I wonder when Wayne sleeeeps?!:confused:

Way ta go, Wayne.;)

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

07-19-2006, 07:06 PM

Hey Wayne The first time I sat in mine, I just had to make Gyro noises.Ha Ha
It is a good feeling to see something come togeather. I still have to make gyro noises. But tomorrow I will be taking my engine apart to make sure the timing is right. Maybe I will have mine going soon.

Thom

CLS447

07-20-2006, 01:58 AM

Wow Wayne ,you are really making some serious progress !

I hope that you love your new ship ! Chris & Shar

OzyRuss

07-20-2006, 03:08 AM

Russ

What kind of redrive is that????

Thom

it's the kiwi box............"autoflite" had one on me ej22, good box. Can get em offset up.............or down

I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one of em..........they are GOOD

put on a wide chord kevlar prop, made here in oz..........BRILLIANT combo

will get a heap of pics posted here soon............of the build

Harry_S.

07-20-2006, 10:10 AM

Anxious for the pics Russ.;)

Is this "mod" your own ideas for a, one of a kind, or will you publish info for others to use?

Cheers :)

OzyRuss

07-20-2006, 03:08 PM

Harry_S.

07-21-2006, 06:21 AM

Need some help from the master mechanics.

The problem is:

After applying the brakes, the brake arm hangs up and does not spring fully up and the shoes rub pretty good on the drum. The wheels continue to turn while taxiing but are dragging.

When I push the arm down and release it, it hangs up and I have to pull it up the rest of the travel. The wheels freely rotate without brake pressure.

I pulled the wheels and drums and it don't happen. These wheels have been in use since '97.

Any help out there?!:confused:

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

07-21-2006, 08:07 AM

Harry

You may have to put a counter-spring on it. does your brake system have the innerspring on the inside of the drum?

Thom

WHUBBS

07-24-2006, 06:26 AM

HARRY, thanks much for posting the photos of my raf build project. i only make the gyro sounds with my lips when i sleep. ha ha. i looked at all the raf machines at mentone until my eye balls about fell out, to compare with my work and that give me more confidence that i am on track, i hope.

also i talked to MR. DUANE HUNN, who has set up his shop at MENTONE for repair and instructions and will be taking my new machine to him for all final touches, such as hang test etc. and he will make the first test flights for me as well as instruct me.

Harry, my new kit had a dragging brake, taking it apart, i found the brake lining was not bonded square with the shoe table and the edge of it was hanging over the shoe and dragging the edge of the brake drum. i just ground it off on a belt sander. next, the drum is just stamped out of sheet metal and is not round, and the lining was hitting the drum just in spots, i lightly buffed the lining down a couple of thousands and now all works well. also i found a bad wheel bearing and it has never been used, i did notice they are made in china, which is factory supplied with the kit.

hope this helps a little with the brakes.

wayne

Harry_S.

07-24-2006, 07:17 AM

Harry

You may have to put a counter-spring on it. does your brake system have the innerspring on the inside of the drum?

Thom

Thom;

The brake itself has two springs; one at the bottom as a retainer and one at the top which also pulls the shoes back after the pressure is released on the arm.

I have had chores at home and won't get back to the airport till tommorow, hopefully.:rolleyes:

I'll check for clearances and or hangups.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

07-24-2006, 07:35 AM

Wayne;

Good decision in contracting Hunne for your checkout and training.

I'll check for clearances all around on my brakes. I didn't have time to check anything last week. I know something is hanging, as the arm stops about 2/3rds. of the travel back, after the pressure is released.

If you still have trouble posting your pics, I could talk you thru it...if you have an open phone line...while using the computer?! Let me know by e-mail

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

07-31-2006, 06:10 PM

Harry S

Did you ever figure out the brake problem???

Thom

WHUBBS

07-31-2006, 06:50 PM

any comments please, received my air command H/S with winglets and 2ft. keel extension today and started first to install the extension. the H/S is molded to set on top of the 2 in. wide keel extension and fits niely, but when the two side plates are installed to hold the extension in place, that makes the keel 2.25 wide and now the H/S does not want to set on it. if you grind out the fiberglass sides that set over the keel, they would be paper thin???

next thing i see is when the H/S is pushed forward to cover the 2 ft. extension which is the proper place it is to set, then the top front of the H/S will come in contact with the bottom of the rudder and hinge bolt???

Wayne

Gary_in_Orygun

08-01-2006, 07:30 AM

I haven't installed one of these myself, but I did fly one when I flew Rich Stewart's machine. I'll attach a couple pictures. I don't think he gets on this forum. But I catch him at richcyn2@juno.com once in awhile.

rfi

08-01-2006, 08:02 AM

Wayne,
A lot of the guys that used my stab and extension kit added a 1 x 2 piece of 6061-T6 tubing to the top of the keel tube underneath the vertical fin. That moves the vertical fin/rudder up one inch to prevent interference of the horizontal stab and rudder.

Harry_S.

08-01-2006, 11:37 AM

Harry S

Did you ever figure out the brake problem???

Thom

Yes I did...finally, Thom. It would make for a rather lengthy post to state what I did to finally get some good braking.:(

Suffice it to say...the *hangup* was caused by the "cheap" brake itself. Those that are familiar with the brake on the RAF know about the arm that spreads the shoes. The whole brake mechanism is rather *loose* and the arm action tends to hangup, from what I saw as dry metal on metal.

I removed the cable from the arm and shoved a lot of heavy grease between the pivot and the shoe metal; after moving the arm to full deflection, both up and down. This solved the hangup problem, Caution...carefully remove the excess grease after cycling several times, so that grease is not transfered to the shoes or the drums.

There was a lot more involved in trimming the liners and to the adjustments, after solving the hangup problem.

There isn't too much need for braking action. I find the only need for brakes...is to keep from running into a wall, or, off the end of the ramp.:D

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

08-01-2006, 11:44 AM

Wayne;

I'm sorry but I can't give you any help with your Parham Stab. Somebody that has actually installed one, will have to come on here and explain how they did it.;)

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

08-01-2006, 11:48 AM

Thom;

Did I miss it or have you solved your engine start problem?!

Are you running your engine? If so, how's it goin'?!

Cheers :)

WHUBBS

08-01-2006, 12:21 PM

Thanks Don, for your suggestion to raise the vertical fin. i have decided to take the support plates that go on each side of the keel and 2 ft. extension and surface grind .125" off the top and bottom edge so they will fit inside of the keel for a splice instead of outside. this will let the H/S set down on the extension where it should go. i will use the same stainless steel rivets to hold it to gether that i used on the rest of the machine. Don, do you know if the tail wheel is moved all way back to the end of the extension as in the photo just posted of your H/S it looks like the tail wheel might still be in its old location, which is on the end of the origional keel?

thanks for all the help from everyone on this project.

Aussie_Paul

08-01-2006, 03:50 PM

Hang in there harry.............a full detailed account and pics will be coming.

The machine that you see on the screen is owned by allan wardill , was a flying "RAF"..............mine is a brand new kit, being moded exactly the same.

The idea is genuine "CLT", with extra ideas thrown in. The guy doing these builds is rod torr, these 2 machines will definately get the tongues wagging, with their inovative build.

Engines ej25"s........2.4 box........76" props.....tall tails......soft start elec prerotators.......single strut suspension and it just goes on and on.

Intend calling them "RAFTORRS" :D

I'm champing at the bit, to get me bum into me new machine.

Russ, from my experience that machine is going to be very power unstable, more so than a Dominator, BUT it will not PPO!!!. A reduction off power will have you pulling a LOT of back stick to stop the speed increasing, at alarming rate if the power is brought back to idle or stopped.

The seat and cabin are uneccesarily far too high. The thrust line is going to be somewhere around the 6" to 8" below the CoM. Not the best BUT certainly better than the Raf. IMHO Shifting the cabin up half that amount would be closer to perfection.

I gueess the proof will be when I fly a finished Firebird (if I am not to old to do so):D and see if I have got it right or I have stuffed up!!!! :eek: I have made more than my share of stuff ups!!!:o

Aussie Paul.:)

dragonflyerthom

08-04-2006, 01:58 AM

Thom;

Did I miss it or have you solved your engine start problem?!

Are you running your engine? If so, how's it goin'?!

Cheers :)
Harry I think I have found the problem.

The engine came from the factory out of time. I talked with Peter at RAF and He gave me the low down on how the timing should be. When I took it down to check it yesterday I found it had been mixed timed. There are three arrows and three lines. You can choose one, arrows or lines but don't use both.:( My engine had the cam pullies timed to the line and the Main was timed or set to the arrow. I will have time this weekend to get it right and then put it togeather again. :mad:
Thanks guys for all of the help. You gave me great advice and good places to start looking. Who would have ever thought that the builders of my engine would have made this kind of mistake. If I had made an error like this the IRS would be auditing my client.:eek:

Thanks again

Thom

Trying to live the Dream

ben

08-04-2006, 12:25 PM

harry you asked about my raf 1000, been put on hold i'm building a hangar right now, soon i will have a nice shop and i can finish the putting together the 2 gyros i have.

Harry_S.

08-04-2006, 12:41 PM

Glad to have you with us Ben.

Those are good pics. Keep us posted on your hangar progress. I'd like to have my own hangar, but...:(

Ben, do you keep a protective cover over your cabin plastic??

Keep us up to date on your *stuff*.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

08-06-2006, 06:52 AM

Wayne Hubbs sent me a couple more nice pics of his stab installation.

Edit...The contrasting color, before it's painted, really shows off the size of that dude.;)

Cheers :)

animal

08-06-2006, 07:05 AM

wow that looks good.the fins are almost as big as the vert. stab.

WHY

08-06-2006, 07:12 AM

Now that is a SERIOUS hs

Tony

Harry_S.

08-06-2006, 07:22 AM

I've started an Item Specific Thread on the Magic donut and the cam bushing.

If you RAF fellas want "specific item" threads started...let me know and I'll go back thru the old RAF thread and pick out a spot as a starter for the new thread. There is a lot of good info in the old thread.

Cheers :)

Aussie_Paul

08-06-2006, 10:52 AM

Wow!! that is some stab and vertical fin set up. From my Raf experiences IMHO it will eliminate the "doors on" yaw instability, BUT may cause insufficient rudder authority.

Also, IMHO, that stab will need some negative AoA, as it appears to me from the pic to be to be neutral. With an un modified thrust off set Raf, the stab HAS to be at least 3 degrees (depending on stab size) neg AoA to the keel.

Aussie Paul. :)

Harry_S.

08-06-2006, 11:04 AM

WHUBBS

08-08-2006, 06:31 AM

Thanks Harry for posting my stab photos again, also thanks for your comment AUSSIE PAUL, on AoA. you are correct Paul, as it looks like it is neutral to me and i suppose i would have to machine a spacer to go under the H/S to get my angle and re-drill my mounting holes in the keel. where i spliced the 2 ft. extension to the keel, i did install the splice plates internally and also added a two inch wide, .125" thick plate of 6061-t6 to the bottom of the keel to give it extra strength if one hit the ground hard on the tail wheel. the vertical fins, bolt on but i have found the radius of the fins did not match the radius supplied by air command of the H/S. i have tried to get the two parts to match radius but will plan on fiberglass both parts together for a permanent attachment even though they bolt on, this will take care of the bad fit radius problem.

wayne

WHUBBS

08-08-2006, 06:46 AM

Harry, that would be a very helpful thread on just THE H/S subject for the RAF, it could save some folks time and money, like i am going through at this time. the comment that PAUL just made to me about the AoA, was already in the back of my mind but coming from him, with his experience, it hit me between the eyes and now i will work on that before i go much further in my build project, for sure.

wayne

Harry_S.

08-08-2006, 09:45 AM

dragonflyerthom

08-08-2006, 10:47 AM

Harry_S.

08-08-2006, 11:49 AM

Wayne

I planed a 12 inch piece of pine and slid it in the keel. Then I drilled thru it, it is very solid with no wiggle. Remember Paul uses the number 4 position. I use the number 3 and zero incidence.

Thom

That sounds like a good tip, Thom.

I really have reservations about the angle of incidence to these stabs, especially on new additions and with new pilots.

Might I strongly suggest that the flight test of these additions and adjustments be performed or carried out by a well experienced pilot...not the newby. You know...Murphy's Law?!

Cheers :)

WHUBBS

08-09-2006, 06:07 PM

THOM, i had started to do the same thing that you are doing with the wood insert, but then run into the problem, where the keel splice plates would be outside and then my H/S would not set down on the keel, so then i machined off the top and bottom edge of the splice plates 1/8 of an inch and they fit very snug inside of the keel tube, so that made a very strong splice plus i installed a 1/8 in. x 2 in. x 15" long strap to the bottom of the keel over the spliced area using the same stainless 3/16" rivets that i have used with the rest of the machine. and 6061-T6 aluminum for the strap .

dragonflyerthom

08-09-2006, 06:20 PM

Sounds like that would do very nicely. You should get that extra support for the tail wheel landings also. My H/S clears the splice so I had no problem.

Thom

Harry_S.

08-12-2006, 11:04 AM

This morning was a *beautiful* start for what has turned out to be another HOT day, here in Florida.:D

Couldn't tell much from the ground as to visibility up high...500 ft. high that is.;) Got to the airport and rushed the unwrapping of the machine; did a deliberate pre-flight like always; rolled her out and mounted up. Wanted to fly before the temps increased.

On climbout...well, before that...as I was taxiing up 36 for T/O on 18, the radio tells me that a friend, Todd, is coming on base for a low pass down 27.

Todd is a most likable fella, he's built like Arnold S. and flies professionally in his Extra 300. So, I tell him on the radio that I will make a yewwy and watch. I catch sight of him just as he's banking off of base at about 3-400 ft.... and down he comes. As he crosses the intersection at about 10 ft. I hear his noise over my headphones and he disappears behind the Quonset Huts. Next I see him in an almost vertical climbout over the end of 27. Beautiful sequence.:D

Back to the mundane...on climbout I see the the conditions are CAVU. Blue skies and fluffy white clouds...then I remember...I left the camera in the car.:p So, three flights this week and had the camera in the gyro two times. Not bad, huh.?!

Cheers :)

Chuck Roberg

08-12-2006, 11:13 AM

Harry, I'm with you on the camera thing. I always forget to bring it. Then wish I had.

Is memory the first or second thing to go???????????//:rolleyes:

dragonflyerthom

08-12-2006, 11:18 AM

Harry S

You are soo right. I will be having Ron M do my test flight after he hangs it. That should be the end of this month. I presently am getting it ready for Airworthyness Inspection. Thank again for your concern.
Sound like a very nice flight. Did you say you fly three time a week. I can hardly wait to do that. I will probably do one hour a day until I get the 40 hours with a 25 hour inspection. I now have three hours on the motor and prop.

Thom

Harry_S.

08-13-2006, 06:47 AM

Ummm...Chuck?!...I forgot...what was your question?:(

Cheers :)

Now I remember...yes, I'm with you on that one?!

Harry_S.

08-28-2006, 10:59 AM

I'm posting these for Wayne.

His machine is lookin' better all the time.;)

Cheers :)

animal

08-28-2006, 11:15 AM

Thats looking nice. won't be long we should be seeing flying pics from it.

WHUBBS

09-09-2006, 07:24 PM

HARRY, THOM, i added a shim under the H/S which holds it 2 1/4 degrees less aoa and have my machine (raf) just about ready to taxi. i started it for the first time today. it would not start at first and after checking all the electrical system determined for sure it was not getting fuel. i primed the cylinders and she fired. it ran very rough, i shut down and pulled off all the injectors and cleaned them and it ran much better but still i am sure one of the injectors is not doing its job so i will clean them in hoppies gun cleaner tomorrow.

Harry_S.

09-10-2006, 06:26 AM

Hi Wayne; That fuel injection is nice...when it works, I guess...but I like my carby.:D

You ought to be about ready for dual training, aren't you?!

Keep us posted on your progress.:drum:

Cheers :)

WHUBBS

09-10-2006, 10:24 AM

getting close Harry, (i hope ). i tied the tail to a tree in front of my hangar when starting it and at 2000 rpm. or less the tail raised up and the nose wheel went to the ground with no one in the machine. i did not have my dash installed but let it lay on a piece of foam. wanted to make sure i did not have to tear the dash back out for some reason. i just could not wait to see it it would run. the kit is a 2002 and the manual books that come with the instructions are for a 1992 engine, so i assume that is the year of the engine. if it does not run smooth today after me cleaning the injectors, possibly i will need to buy new injectors and hope i can purchase them through my local auto supply, but have no idea of the price.

dragonflyerthom

09-11-2006, 02:39 AM

Harry S

Here are a few pics of the H/S That I put on my RAF. The Extention is 28 inches long. As you can see it starts about 8 inches from the add on. Harry If you want to see what I look like go to the the Louisiana Arkansas Gyro Event thread and look at the dinner photo. I'm the one with the panama jack hat on sitting next to my wife closest to the camera.

Thom

PS Somehow I have the same Pic twice. Imagine that
Believe it or not it is the same colot. Just the way the light hits it

dragonflyerthom

09-15-2006, 04:51 AM

I was on youtube today and found this.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukbGtD2LN-4&mode=related&search=

What made this soo interesting was the fact that the prerotator is powered with a seperate motor to the rotor. Seems very effecient on the short take off.:flame: . My question is why can't it be done with the normal prerotator on the RAF. Can the gear ratio be increased to attain the same effect?:noidea:

Harry_S.

09-16-2006, 10:03 AM

I shredded my third PR inner cable this morning.:sad:

I was on centerline and had just started rolling with the pr engaged when it went *kerplunk*...from prior experience, I knew what had happened. I looked at the rotor tach and it read 140...I thought...go on with the takeoff or pull off the runway?!

I decided to go on with the takeoff. By then the rpm was down to about 110. There was no wind to speak of, just a slight crosswind breeze. I played the rotor and the throttle and got it up to 135...but I ran out of remaining runway. Decided to turn off and taxi back to the takeoff point and try to build up rpm.

Taxiing back down, when I looked, I had built the rpm up to 154. Down at the end I made a fast turn onto the runway and started up the centerline again. We slowly built up rpm to 170 when she rocked back on the tail wheel...then I knew I had it made for takeoff.:D Had about 3000 ft. left to get airborne. I'm blessed with a 7500 ft. hard surface runway to use.

Didn't enjoy the flight too much as I knew that when I landed I would have to tear down the pr cable and order new parts.:mad: I should have acquired a new outer sheath when the first cable shredded, but...

So...I'll be grounded for a couple weeks while I wait for some new parts.

Cheers?!

Harry_S.

09-16-2006, 10:26 AM

Harry_S.

09-16-2006, 10:35 AM

Wayne:

Would you figure the sq.ft. of your horizontal stab, less the winglets of course, and let us know?!

That overhead shot makes it look *big*, don't you think?!

Cheers :)

Aussie_Paul

09-16-2006, 02:51 PM

Great to see detailed pics. With the handbrakes, I would have left them independant to be able to apply a turning brake. Maybe loosly conected with a very small rodend or something like that.

Ken J's answer was to reach down and pull either side cable to help turn in a tight spot BUT geez a bit hard on the hands. I had to do that yesterday. I must not be a tough as the ol' Ken J.:D

Well my TIF for the morning has rung so off to work and them a lovely 45 min flight with several gyros to a nice big u/light grass strip to meet another couple of gyros pilots.

Pics tomorrow. I am flying Raf G-600 with the "bloody" stabiliator.

Aussie Paul. :)

Aussie_Paul

09-16-2006, 02:57 PM

I'm posting a couple more photos for Wayne.

I think Wayne is doing a terrific job on his machine.;) I can't wait to see it at Bensen Days '07?!

Keep those pics comin', Wayne. Keep us updated on the progress of your break-in.

Cheers :)

.......with a stock Raf and its horrific thrust line to CoM offset, you cannot have an h/stab that is "TOO BIG".:blabla: :blabla: :blabla: :flame: :flame:

Aussie Paul. :)

paulp

09-16-2006, 07:33 PM

Going to give this one more try-My home field @ Guthrie Ok KGOK

paulp

09-16-2006, 07:42 PM

If this works, I've done it twice in a row. AMZING!!!!

paulp

09-16-2006, 07:48 PM

If this works I will be amazed. Taken at a gathering last March.:yo:

chuter

09-17-2006, 03:55 AM

Hey! I bin to that runway befor! Nevr sene that fog thoe. :twitch:

Good pics Paul.

Timchick

09-17-2006, 04:50 AM

Harry, Did you have any luck getting the shuttle launch photo? Sorry to hear about your prerotator.

Harry_S.

09-17-2006, 07:15 AM

Harry, Did you have any luck getting the shuttle launch photo? Sorry to hear about your prerotator.

No luck on the launch photo, Tim.:p

It was a beautiful sky...but, too many white fluffy clouds in that 60 miles betwixt me and the launch site. By the time I did see the smoke trail above the clouds, it was already dissipating.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

09-17-2006, 07:30 AM

If this works I will be amazed. Taken at a gathering last March.:yo:

Paulp...Way t'go. Four of those six machines are RAF's. You guys must have a ball whenever you get together.:lol: :party:

Cheers :)

paulp

09-17-2006, 03:13 PM

WHUBBS

09-17-2006, 06:38 PM

Harry, i will measure my H / S tomorrow and figure the square in or ft. and get it on the forum. i would like to know for myself also. i will do the vertical area as well.

Paul, just give me another good idea of how to turn a tighter radius by pulling on a single cable and that might do in a pinch. i ran some test today on my turn radius and was suprised, as i was pleased. i can turn in a circle on our 45 ft. wide taxi-way with no problem. i now have over 5 hours of taxi time on my machine and would much prefer that over tied to a tree as in my first hour.

WHUBBS

09-18-2006, 06:21 PM

Harry, i put my H/S area in sq. ft that i measured today on the H/S thread but i will make it easier for the folks and put it here also.

the vertical fins measure 4.66 sq. ft. total for the two of them.

the H/S measured 9.10 sq. ft.

this is the air command H/S that i have installed on my raf-2000 build project.

Harry_S.

09-19-2006, 11:34 AM

the H/S measured 9.10 sq. ft.

this is the air command H/S that i have installed on my raf-2000 build project.

WOW...that sure beats my *barndoor* of 6.2 sq.ft.

I wonder if there is a *bigger* HS out there?

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

09-19-2006, 12:21 PM

Howdy Harry,

We all have a great time. By the way, exactly what happened to your pr cable? Did it twist in the center or at one of the ends. You may want to check in your area as these power drive cables are fairly common in machinery that is PTO driven. Most of the places that make these cables can also take your sheth ends and re-mount them. And, I will guarntee that it will be cheaper & faster than dealing with the folks in Canada.:peace:

Well Paul; There's not much help...aviation type help...in this small town.

The first inner cable failure , I think, damaged the steel spiral liner in the sheath and the steel liner eventually did in the two subsequent cables. If I had replaced the outer sheath after the first failure, I may have been okay?!

I finally made contact with Dick Wunderlich today and ordered a new set, plus an extra cable. Dick said he would probably get 'em out to me today. How's that for service?!:D In addition to servicing you and me...Dick also makes the cables for the SHawk.

Oh...all three cable failures were at the severe bend going up to the bendix. Yesterday, I removed the extension from the PR and used the shorter shaft I had purchased from RAF and that will drastically improve the radius at that bend and utilize a shorter cable and solve my problem...hopefully...maybe...?!

Cheers :)

Aussie_Paul

09-19-2006, 02:11 PM

WOW...that sure beats my *barndoor* of 6.2 sq.ft.

I wonder if there is a *bigger* HS out there?

Cheers :)

....Harry, there does not need to be a bigger stab out there, what is needed is a smaller thrust to CoM offset!!! :wave: :wave: :wave:

Sorry Harry, the devil made me do it!!!!! :lol::lol::lol:

Aussie Paul. :)

Harry_S.

09-20-2006, 11:19 AM

I understand, Paul...:hail: :puke:

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

09-20-2006, 11:33 AM

Paulp;

You have some beautiful pics...is there any way you can post them larger than what they are?!

Don't ask me how to do it, cause, I don't know how. I'm just barely gittin' by, myself, with this 'puter stuff.:o

Cheers:)

Bill B Tenn-man

09-20-2006, 12:00 PM

Reference to better bearings.....

A Local Tennessee company you can get any drive belts, Bearings and most anything mechanical can be bought here at:

Motion Industries Inc
1296 Boyd Farris Rd
Cookeville, TN 38506
(931) 528-3797

I bought Re-Drive belts for my CFI's RAF-2000 there, for about 1/2 the price they wanted from RAF. I've used them to supply any bearings that have been made! You cut out the middle man mark up this way.
They can cross them over for you to a better bearing and better grade if you wish.
If you don't know the numbers.. simply measure with micrometers or calipers the diameters... I.D. and O.D. and the thickness and tell them what rpms and pressures you need them to handle. They can do the rest!

Bill B Tenn-man

09-20-2006, 12:04 PM

Reference to better bearings.....

A Local Tennessee company you can get any drive belts, Bearings and most anything mechanical that can be bought here at:

Motion Industries Inc
1296 Boyd Farris Rd
Cookeville, TN 38506
(931) 528-3797

I bought Re-Drive belts for my CFI's RAF-2000 there, for about 1/2 the price they wanted from RAF. I've used them to supply any bearings that have been made! You cut out the middle man mark up this way.
They can cross them over for you to a better bearing and better grade if you wish.
If you don't know the numbers.. simply measure with micrometers or calipers the diameters... I.D. and O.D. and the thickness and tell them what rpms and pressures you need them to handle. They can do the rest!

paulp

09-20-2006, 12:06 PM

Howdy Harry,

Thanks for the complement. As far as getting the pics bigger-I don't know. I consider it a major coup just getting the images posted!!!! My last attempt at posting pics shut down a major power grid in Chicago and I'm in OK!!!!! However, I will give a try. I am going to take a pic of the saftey wired aft limit bolt on the hub bar. It may help some other folks out there.:wave:

Bill B Tenn-man

09-20-2006, 12:08 PM

Reference to better bearings.....

A Local Tennessee company you can get any drive belts, Bearings and most anything mechanical can be bought here at:

Motion Industries Inc
1296 Boyd Farris Rd
Cookeville, TN 38506
(931) 528-3797

I bought Re-Drive belts for my CFI's RAF-2000 there, for about 1/2 the price they wanted from RAF. I've used them to supply any bearings that have been made! You cut out the middle man mark up this way.
They can cross them over for you to a better bearing and better grade if you wish.
If you don't know the bearing numbers.. simply measure with micrometers or calipers the diameters... I.D. and O.D. and the thickness and tell them what rpms and pressures you need them to handle. They can do the rest!
If you have trouble getting them... I have an account with them setup.
Let me know if I can help out. Bill at: 1-931-808-7245 or email me at: billbowling49@yahoo.com

Bill B Tenn-man

09-20-2006, 12:13 PM

Harry_S.

09-20-2006, 01:08 PM

Reference to better bearings.....

A Local Tennessee company you can get any drive belts, Bearings and most anything mechanical can be bought here at:

Motion Industries Inc
1296 Boyd Farris Rd
Cookeville, TN 38506
(931) 528-3797

Thanks for that info Bill. I have put it in my goody file.

Just for comparison, if you will...how much did they charge for a Power Redrive Belt for the RAF2000? Was this a Gates belt? If not a Gates, what name was it?

Can they supply the named bearing that I give them...by that I mean...a specific part number?

Thank you, Bill.

Cheers :)

rgraffeo

09-20-2006, 05:13 PM

Harry,
I bought the Gates belt for the re-drive from my local Motion Industries store also. I think it was 55 or 60 bucks.

Harry_S.

09-21-2006, 10:08 AM

Harry,
I bought the Gates belt for the re-drive from my local Motion Industries store also. I think it was 55 or 60 bucks.

Sounds good!

Any website where we can check for store locations??

Cheers :)

rgraffeo

09-21-2006, 05:38 PM

Harry,
There website has a list of stores in Florida. Look under locations.
I don't remember if I used my company discount, but I may be able to hook you up. My company has a mine near Bartow along with a facility in Plant City, we flew over the mine at Bensen Days.

https://www.motionindustries.com

Harry_S.

09-22-2006, 11:39 AM

Thanks Rudy, for that info. I bookmarked it.

Cheers :)

cgmg

10-09-2006, 04:21 PM

OK guys, several questions:

Fuel pumps, can you give me parts numbers?

Same for fuel filters.

I'm planning on using my A4 handheld for communication, but mounting it permanently. Buying the battery adapter that allows it to be hard wired into the electrical system. Will mount the antenna by the headlight, and use the antenna for my drift string. Two Lightspeed headsets just arrived. Which intercom system do I buy, and how do I wire the PTT switch on the stick into the intercom?

Also, I have the Don Parham suspension. Planning on moving my axle back 4", but it looks like it's going to be a major modification for his suspension system. Even if I leave the axle where it is, when I move the engine support bracket down the mast, the bracket is so wide it will not clear the spring shock absorber.

Has anyone out there moved a Parham suspension back 4" from original?

asmuzsr

10-09-2006, 08:35 PM

Mark
Don't know about the A4 but-I have an A5 and had to put in an auto cigarett adapter to bring the voltage down. Don't just hard wire it in you may fry it like I did. (opps well now you know how I know.)

Harry_S.

10-10-2006, 01:06 PM

OK guys, several questions:

Fuel pumps, can you give me parts numbers?

Same for fuel filters.

I have used these fuel pumps for almost nine years now and have had only one discrepancy and that was a minor fuel leak at the top fitting. I replaced it.

These pumps are the same as supplied in the RAF kit. NAPA Part No. 74021. I have these as dual pumps, installed on my machine.

I have used the same fuel filters...no replacements...for almost nine years as well. I do filter my gas as I fill the cans at the gas station.;) I don't have the part number handy right now , but I will try to get it next time I'm at Auto Zone.

Cheers :)

cgmg

10-10-2006, 01:19 PM

Thanks Harry, that's a start. I get a good discount on whatever I buy from my NAPA buddy, so the more the merrier.

rgraffeo

10-14-2006, 08:36 AM

Mr. Hunn,
I was told that adding grease can cause the bearing to overheat.
Is this correct?

Aussie_Paul

10-14-2006, 02:02 PM

Hi Harry I find that by removing the seal very gently on one side and put in a little good bearing grease it well double the life of the bearing. See if that may helps. duu

Duane, nice to see you posting Sir.

My Mother, Brother and myself sure recall a very pleasnt time at Bensen days 1999. Especially the way the Raf team, yourself, Jim, lisa and Dick looked after us. Our Mother now in her 80's said that tiome was memerable. Again thanks.

Aussie Paul. :)

Harry_S.

12-04-2006, 01:07 PM

Hi Harry I find that by removing the seal very gently on one side and put in a little good bearing grease it well double the life of the bearing. See if that may helps. duu

I'm sorry Duane, I didn't see your post above, till today.

To be honest with you, I don't mess with sealed bearings if they go bad. I buy a new one.

With my RAF, I think it was on my 100 hr. maintenance, I found that grease had contaminated the whole front end of the timing belt system. I replaced all the bearings and the timing belt. On close inspection of the old bearings, I saw evidence of the seal being compromised, which I assumed to be, for the addition of grease.

I can see this as being an out for a land vehicle, but not with my butt in an air vehicle. I will just replace with new bearings.

Cheers :)

JR_T

12-27-2006, 08:41 AM

[QUOTE=Harry_S.;135110]Sounds good!

Any website where we can check for store locations??

I just ordered and received a new Gates drive belt (Item # 880-8M , 8M Power Grip® GT® 2 Neoprene) from http://www.beltcorp.com/ for $69.32 ... 2 day delivery. These are by the far the best drive belts I've used or heard about. They last longer than Goodyear or Jason.

Harry_S.

12-27-2006, 01:33 PM

That is a real good price. Thanks Jerry.

The first replacement belt I got was from a Gates dealer in Calif. and he soaked me about 140 dollars. Sent me the wrong size belt at that and had to send it back. What did I know back then??

Cheers :)

dragonflyerthom

12-28-2006, 12:50 AM

Jerry Do they have a good shelf life?

I have the original Jason now but I plan on replacing it at 100 hours as well as the external bearing.

JR_T

12-28-2006, 06:34 AM

Jerry Do they have a good shelf life?

I have the original Jason now but I plan on replacing it at 100 hours as well as the external bearing.

Thom,

I don't have actual experience regarding drive belt shelf live. One could conclude that the shelf life would be excellent if kept in the proper conditions. I replaced my Jason (from the factory) with a Gates at 100 hours. Replaced my Gates at 300 hours and when examining it closely, I bet it could go another couple hundred hours. I share a hangar with one of the RAF CFI's that flies a lot of students, his current Gates belt has over 400 hours.

Harry_S.

12-28-2006, 12:34 PM

In my opinion, Gate's belts are the best.

Cheers :)

Steve Osborne

12-28-2006, 06:57 PM

Ditto Harry, I switched to Gates, it has about 250 on it now and still looking like new

gwilliams38

01-01-2007, 02:57 PM

Hello Jerry!:usa2:

So how is the ol' F-4 Pilot? Couldn't miss your nice RAF paint job. I hope all is well and you have a fabulous '07.

G. W. W.

JR_T

01-02-2007, 11:40 AM

So...anything new to give us on the use of the Plast-X? I was going to *try* Meguiars web for info on where to buy this stuff...but haven't done it yet.:(

CFWMDF
Cheers :)

I found that Novus #1 and #2 work great. No. 1 (P/N 09-38110) is a plastic cleaner and No. 2 (P/N 09-38120) is a fine scratch remover. I usually use no. 2. You can get them at Aircraft Spruce.

Harry_S.

01-02-2007, 12:54 PM

I found that Novus #1 and #2 work great. No. 1 (P/N 09-38110) is a plastic cleaner and No. 2 (P/N 09-38120) is a fine scratch remover. I usually use no. 2. You can get them at Aircraft Spruce.

I had bought a bottle of PlastX and before I used it, someone posted that it was a Micro-abrasive. I didn't even open the bottle...in fact, I still have it ...unopened.

I was using the Novus when someone mentioned the Mequiar's three part Plastic Glaze Polish. I got some and tried it. It did the best job I've ever had on my machines' windscreen.

Once the superficial scratches were removed, I just used the Mirror Glaze Polish to make the windscreen *invisible.* When bugs or something cause scratches, I just use the Meg's cleaner to remove the scratches and follow up with the Meg's polish. the Mequiar's Glaze products are non abrasive and I wholly endorse them for use on your plastic windscreens.

Cheers :)

Harry_S.

07-30-2008, 12:40 PM

Am posting this foto for Benjamin Meyers in Oregon.

Nice lookin' machine BM.

Cheers :)

MontanaGyro

02-24-2009, 10:47 AM

Harry_S.

02-24-2009, 01:54 PM

I know this is an old post but oh well... My tanning bed has acrylic panels on it and they said to never use any product containig ammonia like "Windex" on it as ammonia will cloud the acrylic over time.

Hi Don, No offense meant here but I can't tell much about one from a bio that don't offer any info as to ones experience or ones goals. But...

The windscreen on the RAF is of Lexan. In cleaning the screen on my machine, for over 11 years now, I have sprayed "Windex" on the entire screen and drag a warm and dampened soft cloth diaper across it. I then dry it with another dry diaper. You can't find a softer cloth than a baby's cloth diaper. :D

I then now use Meguiar's clear plastic polish. If any minor scratches are visible I first use the Meguiar's cleaner to get rid of 'em, then the polish. My windscreen is as clear now as it was when brand new. ;)

Cheers :)