Seat tank fuel bushing?

[Rick Whittridge]

I`m not familiar with these push in fittings for fuel tanks, anyone know what the correct size hole should be used to insure a leak-free seal?
I like theads but when it come to plastic seat tanks these seem to be the choice.
Thank`s :confused:

[gyromike]

Rick,

Just going from memory, I believe the SnoBird instructions call for using a 31/64" hole in the tank.

I think I just used a 1/2" drill for mine, and I've never had a leak.

I can check my papers at the hangar this afternoon. I kept the mounting instructions.

[Doug Riley]

Rick: A few "care and feeding" tip for these little gizmos:

Make sure the hole you create is smooth -- remove burrs and sharp edges.

The bushing will snap in easier if you lube it with liquid dish soap, shampoo or other NON-petroleum lubricant.

Change them every couple years and whenever the outside flange cracks or gets hard.

When changing bushings, check those metal shutoff valves for rust in the portion inside the tank -- they get exposed to whatever small amount of water accumulates in the bottom of the tank, and WILL shed rust flakes into your fuel system. I had some to clean out this spring.

[Rick Whittridge]

Thanks Guy`s for the input on these fittings. I got ahold of Tom Milton to make sure of the hole size before i drill the new Sno-Bird tank for my new project!I work with metal every day but the plastic is something that needs extra care when drilling holes for what seems a bad idea to begin with.

[rehler]

I just learned a lesson on these fitting a few weeks ago.

First you put the bushing in the 1/2" hole, then you push the fitting into the bushing, which takes a lot of HARD straight in pushing. What I learned is that you first need to lube the entire inside of the rubber fitting with some gasoline or soap - otherwise when pushing in the fitting you can tear the rubber bushing and it will then leak. That's what I did. Had to replace it.

Earlier I also learned not to use old rubber fittings (mine were about 6 years old) as they will crack and tare easily. I had to buy new ones after the old ones craked.

[gyromike]

When I installed mine, I soaked the rubber bushings in hot water to soften them up, then inserted them into the tank bottom.
Then I smeared a very thin layer of white assembly lube on the metal barb fitting. It went in pretty easy, and hasn't leaked in almost six years.

[getut]

Sorry revive old dead threads.. but anyone got a part number or provider for these bushings? I just got my snobird tank installed on my machine and tore a bushing going in with it.

Lowes and the automobile places I've been too so far had some rubber bushings but none with the little keeper flange or "barb" on the end and I also wasn't sure if these were special to resist the fuel eating them up.

[Doug Riley]

The homebuilder and Rotax-distributor catalog houses -- Wicks, Aircraft Spruce, Lockwood, California Power -- all sell them.

Coat them with dishwashing liquid or fabric softener to make them easier to install. Works with all kinds of force-fit rubber parts.

[scottessex]

Aircraft spruce has them, I usually order a few extras.
Here you go man! http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ftb01.php

[getut]

Duh!

I assumed that this was an automotive part repurposed for the tanks and wouldn't be in the aircraft parts places. I never even bothered to search for it on aircraft spruce. Found it in 10 seconds.

Thats what I get for assuming. Open mouth insert foot.

[scottessex]

Its OK...I KNOW that I am going to have a stupid computer question sooner or later....

[dinoa]

The three in my tank haven't leaked since first being installed in 1990.

Dino

[GyroCFI]

Thanks Guy`s for the input on these fittings. I got ahold of Tom Milton to make sure of the hole size before i drill the new Sno-Bird tank for my new project!I work with metal every day but the plastic is something that needs extra care when drilling holes for what seems a bad idea to begin with.

hey Rick,
My friend designed a replacement for those seat tank bushings that works awesome! it is a metal flanged bushing that goes from the inside out and has some MS rubber O-rings on the underside to help seal permanently. I've used them on all my gyros and never had a problem. there's flats cut on the external threads and the inside is threaded to 1/8NPT so you can put a lot of other fittings on them. I was selling them to LEAF back in the 90's until Neal Carnes started producing them and selling to Leaf. I'm not sure where they get them now. I never had a leak when I installed the metal bushing, even after many years.

It's here http://onlinecatalog.leadingedgeairfoils.com/WebProject.asp?BookCode=wag09flx&from=2

it's on page 107 and the part number is 7264.

I may have a couple laying around from a production run if you'd like one. LEAF sells them with an O-ring that is too small, I used the MS 28775-206 but i'm not sure what they're using.

[Kingchocolate]

http://www.bearperkins.com/accessories.htm

[Trez]

Go here http://jbmindustries.com/ROTAX.htm# to the middle of the page and see what this guy has for you.
I've not used this particular part from him but his other rubber parts are noticeably superior to Rotax and others' parts.
Good luck........

[PPG Doug]

Am I the only one who's dying to hear about what your new project is Rick? Or is it King Midas?

Spill the beans will ya.

[Rick Whittridge]

Doug, Thanks for the interest but this thread was posted in 2005. Getut pulled it out of dead threads to get some info?

[PPG Doug]

Doug, Thanks for the interest but this thread was posted in 2005. Getut pulled it out of dead threads to get some info?

whoooooooops

[GyroRon]

Alot of lawnmowers use the same rubber grommet in their fuel tanks. My scag mower has them.... I have picked up new grommets right at the dealer, no need to wait on shipping from Georgia or whereever

[automan1223]

I use spray silicone lube when installing the metal fitting part into the grommet. Install the grommet first.

I have also had some come out after installation due to shrinkage and quality issues. I use marine 5200 sealant sparingly to help keep things leak and sweat proof. The fast dry or 7 day cure time, either one works. Although the longer the cure the better the seal. With fuel issues today replace them every 2 years. On my saddle tanks I cut threads with a tap for a plumb leak proof seal. I think I used a 3/8ths pipe tap.

J

[Trez]

***********

If you want quality and longevity get your stuff from the guy I posted about in post #15. I have no vested interest in him or his business. But the rubber he uses is superior to any of the others I've seen.
His carb boots are noticeably better than Rotax. As are his throttle cable adj. boots. So I'm sure that all the other stuff he has is just as good.
Or, just keep on using the same old crap that you have to replace "every year or two"........