View Full Version : Ej22 break in oil
01-03-2004, 12:03 PM
I will be starting up my RAF next week to start its 20 hour break in period. I am seeking comments on what is a good oil for breaking in this engine. RAF recommends that to avoid using synthetic oil during break in. My gut feeling is to just add some Penzoil 10W40.
Thanks for any comments.
01-04-2004, 06:45 AM
That's a go and also go slow. I changed oil after the first 5 hrs. Not necessary to do that, but I did. I didn't go full throttle till I had 20 hrs. on the Hobbs.
Went to Mobile 1 10W30 after 20 hrs. and haven't had a hiccup or any lost oil. I hear it's not necessary to change every 25 hrs., but I do. Pushing 400 hrs. now and she's running fine.
01-04-2004, 08:31 AM
Thanks Harry: I am going by the book on the break in. My next question was going to be what is a good oil after break in. Your choice of Mobil 1 sounds like is doing a good job for you.
I will dump in some 10/40 Penzoil and start breaking it in this week.
01-05-2004, 05:43 AM
I used Mobil One full synthetic oil until I had engine problems. The oil pump pickup pipe had a crack in it & was losing oil pressure.
Now I just use Texaco 10W30. I figured that my old Mazda pickup had 200,000 miles on it after using the cheapest oil that Walmart sold, a Subaru should do just as well. I changed the oil in it every 10,000 miles whether it needed it or not.
If you got your enigne with your RAF kit, it's a used engine anyway.
01-06-2004, 03:14 AM
Rudy, do we know for sure that they are selling used engines? Rebuilds?
Stan, did your camera break?
01-06-2004, 03:43 AM
Chris: OK...I will take some more pictures today. I do have my Parham stab on and it is all wired except for my alternator light and my fuel pressure gauge light.
01-06-2004, 04:32 PM
Chris: I fixed my camera. ;D Anyway..here is a close up of my Parham stab. I have it set with 2 degrees nose down with the keel. I can easily adjust it by moving the washers for or aft.
01-06-2004, 04:35 PM
Front view...I dont know how I am going to fly with those foggy windows. :o
01-06-2004, 04:41 PM
My dash is almost done except for the alternator light..fuel pressure gauge light...and all the switch labels.
I left space in my panel for a future radio. For now I have my Vertex handheld wired in. I am going to mount an antennae on the keel as soon as my fittings come in.
01-06-2004, 07:24 PM
I'm no expert on the subject but this is what I heard:
RAF used brand new engines for the first 50 or so kits. They tried to get their hands on some more but Subaru would not sell them for liability purposes.
I understand they are all used engines in the kits. I heard you can get them from Japan rather cheap.
I was also told if an engine has over 50,000 miles on it, by using sythetic motor oil could cause oil leaks. Synthetic oil is real clean & it would clear away deposits it the engine.
Your gyro is looking real sharp. When do you expect to be ready to fly?
01-07-2004, 03:48 AM
Rudy if the engines were used & not rebuilt , Why would you have to break it in for 20 hrs ?
Stan, you've been a busy boy! Looks real good! Did you start it yet?
Do you get Homebuilt Rotorcraft magazine? I finally subscribed & bought 12 back issues. Damn, I should have been getting this since the mid-80's.
I hope you have the defroster! LOL How tough was the Lexan install? Keep us posted.
01-07-2004, 04:16 AM
The Raf engines are rebuilt engines. The first batch of ej-22 engines came from new cars that were flooded in a thunderstorm. Since then they use rebuilt.
01-07-2004, 02:57 PM
Rudy: I am planning on trying to start it this weekend. I took RAF up on their rotor exchange and I will be getting them next week. I have a couple of guys who are going to let me get the feel of their machines. I dont expect to be flying until up in March.
Chris: The lexan was rather fun to work with. I cant wait to take that disgusting film off the windows. I now have all my switches labeled and I am now putting on an external attennae for my handheld. I left room on the lower right of the panel for a future radio.
Chris: The engines have to be broke in because of the new chrome rings in the cylinders. I can see my engine had fresh cross hatch honing marks. I understant that if you dont break the rings in right..it will glaze the cylinders.
01-08-2004, 05:00 AM
On tip I was given about breaking in the engine was to use straight water in the coolant system first. This will allow the engine to run warmer. I also blocked off some of the radiator with cardboard to restrict airflow.
I tried to keep the engine temp near 200 degrees. I was told by running it warmer it would help seat the rings.
Also the pipe that attaches to the upper radiator hose (where the radiator cap is located) came loose while I was breaking it the engine.
I had painted it & it slipped. I used a pair of pliers to slightly bend outward the pipe on both ends where the hoses attach to form a lip.
This solved the problem.
01-08-2004, 07:13 PM
Rudy: I started it today and it ran perfect. I had already put the ant-freeze in..but I may block off the radiator as you say. My temps were around 185.
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