QUICK!! How much alodine to I need?

[KDOG]

I have the order page open at aircraft spruce, but I need to know how much of the alodine to buy. I'm thinking a gallon would be plenty. ANd which number - 1001, 1132, or 1201?

[KDOG]

Hey!!! All those views and no responses? Whats up with that?

[scottessex]

A gallon should be fine, I am not sure about the numbers, I haven't looked at thier website.

Get a small plastic tray or bucket, and soak the parts in it, for the small stuff anyhow, turn them over a few times, don't leave them in too long, especially with fresh alodine, or they will turn brown and green. You want a nice gold tint, not Bling Bling gold, just a nice gold tint.

[KDOG]

Ok, now to apply it to the bigger parts, whats the best way? With a brush, rag? And the exposure time, whats a good estimate?

[scottessex]

You can put it on with a brush or cover the part with cheesecloth and then soak the cloth, that keeps it from running off the part. Just leave it on long enough to get a gold tint. The alodine can be re used, but it gets a little weaker as you use it,
usually about 3 to 10 minutes depending on the strength of the alodine.

[KDOG]

Suhweet. Thanks. Now can you prime the piece right after you rinse (and dry) the alodine off?

[scottessex]

Yes, as long as it is dry it will be fine.

[Jon B]

Hi!

What is the alodine for? What does it do?

Total ignorance-

Jon

[KDOG]

Its paint prepping - chemical anodizing, prevents corrosion, etc..

[cocre]

Buy the gallon. Shipping costs are way too high if your have to re-order cause you didn't buy enough the first time. Also buy the AlumiPrep 33, it takes off any existing oxidation. Use it first wearing rubber gloves in a well ventilated area (the stuff will burn your flesh and lungs). Scrub the parts with the diluted 33 and a Scotch Brite pad. Flush with clean water. Then soak the parts in 1201 (the gold tone stuff). Use the 1201 if you plan to paint. In my opinion the tint is not uniform enough to leave as a finish.

To soak (or scrub) long parts use a suitable length of cheap vinyl rain gutter with end caps. A paint brush helps. You don't need to cover the parts in the 1201, just roll them around in the mixture. Get the insides of tubes as best you can.

I wish you well with your Bee, I have had one in a half-finished stage for a year or so. This is where many of us seem to end up. But I have not lost total interest yet. One day I will finish it, Lord willing.

[KDOG]

Welcome to the forums, Steve!! Thanks for the info, though I've gotton some different info:
Scotch Brite ( at this point do not touch with bare hands from now on) Rinse with soap and water.
Etch with acid (Eagle One Aluminum Mag Wheel Cleaner was recommended, and I just bought almost a quart) Spray off with water.
Apply alodine and rinse.
Prime.
Paint.
Have beer. Or two.

Is there anything you can suggest? The only thing I would suggest to you is finish that bee!!! You know you want to... ;)

[cocre]

The Alumiprep 33 will help the Scotch Brite scrubbing and it also etches. The old oxidation just flows off a milky white. And there is no need to use soap if you use 33, all it will do is probably leave a residue.

None of these ideas are mine. But I did put them to practice.

If you have the money, buy as much as you can pre-fabbed. Even if you don't have the money buy as much as you can pre-fabbed (unless you have a machine shop). You can add about 20% to your cost estimate for oops, design changes, and reorders (shipping will eat you alive). I have bought materials for two different joy stick designs and will probably end up with a factory job. By the time you add all this back and forth stuff in, the cost is getting close to just buying the piece outright.

I have attached a picture (I think) of about where I am. I also have a tail boom, rotorhead, prop, gas tank, and a few other odds and ends also. I stumbled on the tail feathers. I just didn't think I could make a Watson tail, and did not like the design of most others. I now see where StarBee has a tail w/stab for sell.

[KDOG]

Yes the StarBee tail is what I will use. It looks like you have a good lead on it, you should really keep going! C'mon it will be fun!!! I'll have to look into that Alumiprep 33, I did see it on Aircraft Spruces website....

[gyropilot]

Hi!

What is the alodine for? What does it do?
Jon,

Paint will ultimately flake off of untreated aluminum without first prepping the surface. Alumiprep (dilute phosphoric acid) removes oxidation... even the thin film you can't see, and then Alodine (dilute chromic acid) prevents the return of oxidation... which begins immediately after exposing bare aluminum to air... so that paint will properly adhere.

Some products claim to accomplish both steps (oxidation removal and surface prep) in one step. I've only used the two step process myself.

Regards,

John L.