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ultracruiser41
09-22-2009, 02:07 PM
What are the normal water temps for the EJ22?

Min...Max....normal?

Mine is running just shy of 200...maybe....190 on the ground. My radiator is mounted somewhat forward from the prop so I estimate it would run a little hot until I get airflow through the radiator. At flight speed...it should be no problem.

I was thinking of adding a radiator fan to use only during ground operations.

Any thoughts?

What is the max temp I can run on the ground without worrying about overheating the poor Sub?

Thanks,

BarryK

cgmg
09-22-2009, 03:28 PM
Barry,

My 2.2 cruises at about 185-190, indicated on both my manual gauge, and my EIS sender.

On the ground, the temps climb to 195-200, regardless of the outside temp. I wouldn't mess with an electric fan unless experience shows you need it.

ultracruiser41
09-22-2009, 03:56 PM
Thank Mark....I won't feel paranoid now!

What would be the absolute..."I better shut this thing down!" temp??

UtahBenson
09-22-2009, 05:18 PM
A tidbit that might interest you. I am not sure what altitude if any it would boil below 200 °F Most cookbooks consider 3,000 feet above sea level to be high altitude, although at 2,000 feet above sea level, the boiling temperature of water is 208 °F instead of 212 °F.
If the barometric pressure is not at the standard value, the boiling point will be different.
Water in a radiator is under pressure so the boiling point will be higher. I have boiled over many engines and haven't hurt one but I would shut down at 205-210 °F it it were my engine.

Canadian Rhino
09-22-2009, 07:43 PM
How do you have the heater curcuit plumbed into that engine?
I t has a lot to do with temperature control.

lanichol
09-22-2009, 09:31 PM
KennyJ thought he had a heat problem. Purchased a larger radiator, still had the problem. The solution was adding good ground wires.

ultracruiser41
09-23-2009, 02:30 AM
Hey Phil,

I have the heater lines just looped together......is this OK?

Thanks,

BarryK

jcarleto
09-23-2009, 05:02 AM
I run 190-200. Billygyro told me about a little device you can get at most auto parts stores. It is a radiator cap with a built in contact thermometer. Not terribly expensive and remarkably accurate. I was having doubts about the accuracy of my panel indicator (and was right), and find now myself checking the cap on warm-up and after each flight. The panel indicator works, but the numbers are just "in the ballpark."

Looping the heater lines works. A heater core is just a loop. The only problem is getting air pockets out when you do that. EJ-22's don't like air pockets.

If you are using the correct radiator pressure cap (13-16 lbs), you'll know if you get too hot. It'll start blowing coolant into the reservoir tank (around 230 degrees).

bmoore2156
09-23-2009, 06:15 PM
I run 190-200. Billygyro told me about a little device you can get at most auto parts stores. It is a radiator cap with a built in contact thermometer. Not terribly expensive and remarkably accurate. I was having doubts about the accuracy of my panel indicator (and was right), and find now myself checking the cap on warm-up and after each flight. The panel indicator works, but the numbers are just "in the ballpark."


If your cap and sensor are not in the same place, you would probably see different temps.

jcarleto
09-24-2009, 03:54 AM
If your cap and sensor are not in the same place, you would probably see different temps.

True..but on a Subaru EJ-22, the sensor is on the block on the pipe section that leads right to the radiator input. Most "plumbing" for gyros puts the input cap there (mine does, anyway). It is a high point and makes it easy to get rid of bubbles. It is close enough to the sensor to get readings within a few degrees of the sensor.

I have done extensive testing with IR temperature scanners and probes with my EJ-22, chasing a problem I thought I had, only to find that my gauge on my panel had the wrong resistance value. I have corrected the gauge with a resistor. The IR scanner showed about a half degree of difference at the sensor from my radiator cap reading, so I just calibrated the panel gauge to match the cap. Close enough, in my book.

ultracruiser41
09-24-2009, 07:46 PM
Thanks everyone.....
temps are steady and no fan is needed for ground ops!



Barry (all steamed up) K

Canadian Rhino
09-25-2009, 07:32 PM
Sorry for the delay in answering!
The thermostat on the subs use the return from the heater curcuit to tell the thermostat when to open so make sure that loop is not kinked or you will overheat!
If you closely look at where the heater return is plumbed you will see it will directly hit the bussiness side of the thermostat
This design allowed the car heater to give more heat on a cold day because it would send colder water diectly to the thermostat making it open later and thus the engine run hotter and then of course more heat in the car!