What cyclic control doesn't use the notch in the tailboom?

[KDOG]

And not that overhead stick either. I believe it was the pump-handle cyclic? Anyone have the plans for that? If not, I don't know HOW I'm gonna put that notch in the tailboom...

[Brian Jackson]

I believe the StarBee cyclic is surface mounted and does not require the tail boom notch. Appears to be a nice unit. As far as plans go, I'm not aware of any. Check out the StarBee Gallery (http://www.starbeegyros.com/gallery.asp) for photos that show their cyclic mounting system.

[KDOG]

Dang, no closups of the area... I'll email Dana and see if I can't get a high res pic of that section...

[KDOG]

Dana says the StarBee control uses the notch. Anyone know about the one that doesn't use the notch?

[Douglas Riley]

The original Bensen pump handle stick is a good design. It mounts to the cluster plates and is not attached to the keel at all. If you can weld well or know someone who can, it's a bulletproof design and quite inexpensive to build. Except for the pushrods, the materials from Wicks or the like ought to cost about $30.

Scaring up plans might be hard, but doesn't Vortech sell (bootleg) copies of Bensen plans?

[gyropilot]

Anyone have the plans for that?
Ask and ye shall receive...

Pump Handle Cyclic Plans (http://users2.ev1.net/~gyroman/tips/pumpcyclic.htm)

John L.

[KDOG]

GREAT!!! But it involves welding... anyone know if there is a vendor who fabricates them? Now to find something to do with the cyclic holes that I already drilled in the frame...

[Brian Jackson]

Ask and ye shall receive...

Pump Handle Cyclic Plans (http://users2.ev1.net/~gyroman/tips/pumpcyclic.htm)

John L.
Thank you, John! :)

I'd always disregarded pump-handle sticks because their travel was somewhat unorthodox to my expectations of a typical joystick. "Upward/Downward" seems awkward to imagine in contrast to the parallel bar style of traditional designs (Brock, StarBee, etc.) But the root of being astute is recognizing a good thing when it presents itself.

Compared to overhead sticks (which I've learned opperate in reverse) and parallel sticks, pump-handle sticks offer many advantages. Simplicity of design, lighter weight, easily translatable control movements, lower fabrication cost, lower friction movement... that's my guess, sorry.

A lot of people will not agree, but I try to make my opinions educated. It's not always possible.

I am going to bed now.

Goodnight.

[KDOG]

I haven't decided on which to use yet, the Pump Handle or the StarBee. The only thing I'm concerned about is cutting the notch in the tailboom, which I will start a new thread about...

[Doug Riley]

Rotorpix, don't fret about the up-down movement. For one thing, it's the direction the nose moves (up-down, not back-forth), so the information it gives you is accurate. For another, the movements are so small that the vertical component isn't very noticeable. Many helos have sticks hinged aft of the seat, perhaps to reduce floor clutter. It also helps clear the instrument panel on machines with pods.

Among the kit makers that put the pitch pivot somewhat aft are Air Command (early), Bensen, Dominator and Rotorway.

As for welding, almost anyone can learn gas welding well enough to tack a unit together. You can then take it to the best aircraft welder (not Joe's Blacksmith) you know and get the finish beads laid down.

A beginner's welding set sufficient for this task can be rented, or bought for about $150. You'll soon be using it for all sorts of little projects, especially your trailer (though you ought to hold off any life-or-death parts until you've got it truly mastered). I'm still using the Sears gas welding kit I bought at age 19 for $90!

[Alan Coats]

How much is the stick travel (how many inches) on a GyroBee during normal flight?

I am starting to think about hooking up the control rods on mine and building a stick. I have looked at a lot of pictures, and in some of them it looks like the stick is in the pilot's belly. In others it looks like it is between his knees. What do you guys recommend? Mine has the StarBee type action.

Thanks,
Alan

[Doug Riley]

You can design in whatever stick leverage ratio you want. PRA recommends no less than 0.8" of fore-aft stick travel per degree of head travel. Many sticks in the field are a little faster than that, maybe 0.6"-0.7" per degree. I'd stick to the 0.8", however.

Movements of the stick in routine flight maneuvers are normally a degree of head tilt or less, which, in turn, means less than an inch of stick movement. You do use the entire range of travel in ground operations, takeoff and landing, however, so you have to be able to reach those limits.

Obviously, 0.8" of travel per degree with a typical 18-degree head means total stick travel will be 14.4". Whether it's in your belly or not at cruise is up to you; the neutral or cruise position of the stick can be adjusted by changing the rod length. It's best to make dummy pushrods and check that the stick position is satisfactory before you cut metal. The amount of adjustment in the rod end bearings is pretty small (if you keep enough threads engaged to be safe).

[Alan Coats]

Thanks, Doug.

That is just the info I needed.

Alan