Aww Crap, did I get a bad mast from StarBee? Please say no!!!

[KDOG]

Looks great except for 2 things: Its not exactly 72" its 71 7/8ths. That issue is probably a non-issue. However, the other thing is that I just notices one of the corners on one end looks a little rough. As you can see from the pics. Sorry they are not clearer, but this forum doesn't let you post high res pics.

The affected area is probably 3/16" to a 1/4". Please tell me that I can just cut that off and make the proper measurement adjustments. Please? If not I will be one sad wannabe gyropilot!!! :( Personally, I don't see why not, but I'd like to get a consensus before I proceed...

[KDOG]

By the way, I drilled my keel yesterday, came out great!!! At least I have that going for me...

[rehler]

Yes, I see no reason why you should be concerned about making it 1/4" shorter.

[KDOG]

Theres one vote of encouragement!!! Anyone else?

[Chuck Irby]

I agree with Ken. However, you could just make that the bottom of the mast and clean it up with a file or belt sander. Just don't get into the adjacent metal with the sander.

I am not familiar with the plans for your machine, but most masts have to be cut off on the bottom at an angle. If that's the case, then cut that portion off and you have lost nothing.

[PW_Plack]

Chuck,

The 'Bee has the mast at 90 degrees to the keel, so I'm guessing it's not an angle cut. If this becomes the bottom of the mast, the quarter-inch or so compromised by being filed or sanded flush is not called on to make a structural contribution anyway, right?

Ralph?

[KDOG]

Thanks for the help guys, Whew! What a sigh of relief. Anyway that is now the bottom of the mast and I am making the measurement differences accordingly...

[Chuck Irby]

Paul, the bolt holes are not going to be in that portion of the mast anyway. So as I see it, structural integrity will be maintained.

[Brian Jackson]

Kevin,
Being a new builder myself, my opinion doesn't really count. But for what it's worth, I would cut off that dented (compressed) 1/8" or so for 2 reasons. 1: It's now stressed and so there's an unknown as to the strength of that corner, or if a crack could propogate from that point. Unlikely, but "when in doubt, don't." 2: Shortening the mast by that miniscule amount should have no affect on the flight characteristics. I'm guessing the 72" (6'-0") mast height was most likely arrived at because square tubing comes in those lengths, and it's tall enough (within design parameters) to make the ship stable. So if your mast is 1/4" shorter, the only thing I could see it affecting is the length of your rotor control rods.

Again, my opinion carries no weight, other than being an educated guess, and what I'd personally do if no other information was available to me.

Brian Jackson

[Brian Jackson]

...continued:

Just on a hunch I pulled up the 3D model in profile. There's only slightly more than 1/4" of material from the underside of the thru-hole to the end of the tube. Personally, I would saw off 2X the dent height. Or else send it back to StarBee. They should have inspected that critical piece before it was shipped. Perhaps I'm overly paranoid, but when unknowns are part of the safety equation I'd rather err on the side of caution. It just isn't worth the risk.

Again, for what it's worth.

Brian

[Brian Jackson]

oh, one other thing... If you've already drilled your holes in the mast for that area, you should still be able to return the part to StarBee, assuming they'd even want it back since it's the only 3/16" wall item on the ship. Your first post on this thread serves as documented proof as to how your order arrived. StarBee is a good company with a quality reputation. I'd guess they'll drop-ship you a replacement the same day. Hmmm... perhaps Drop-ship is the wrong phrase :D

Cheers,
Brian

[KDOG]

Heres what I did: I simply measured a 1/4" up from the bad end, and made my measurements from there for all but the holes at the top for the rotorhead, for those I simply measured back from the top... so I'm pretty good to go. As eluded to in some of the other responses, 1/4" ain't gonna matter at all. What I plan to do is cut just shy of the 1/4" mark, then file/grind/coarse scotch-brite it down the rest of the way till I'm right at the perfect distance.
Oh, and RotoPix - I tried to call you but I get this "number has been disconnected" message. I have all the holes drilled and deburred in all three pieces now. Let me tell you, that hand deburrer tool that whoever recommended works FANTASTIC. The holes look like a machine shop did them...

[Brent_Brown]

FYI you can add any loss length of the mast to the rotorhead cheek plates. When I changed a KB2 to a KB3 I just made long cheek plates and made new push tubes. It worked fine.

[Brian Jackson]

Great idea, Brent. I never thought about that.

Kevin, that's wierd you got a disconnected message. The cell still works, & my home phone is 269-687-8927. Call me anytime.

[DanaLinn]

I’m glad I am checking the Forum weekly. I would never have known about this FedEx-damaged mast since Kevin has not informed us of this damaged mast tube. We state clearly on every invoice that any discrepancy should be brought to our attention for correction. We stand behind our work and would never have shipped such a piece as shown in Kevin’s photos. The mast was packaged with “Do Not Drop On Ends” written ALL over it.

Dana Linn
Star Bee Gyros

[scottessex]

Glad you like the de-burr tool. Have you tried a center drill yet?

[KDOG]

Its alright Dana, we got it figured out. I didn't inform you 'cause I made the proper adjustments so I could still use the mast, no biggie, 1/4" isn't going to hurt anything. By the way does your cyclic use the notch in the tail boom? If so, I don't know HOW I'm going to do that.

[KDOG]

No center drill... I just ream them with the bit from the other side and get the holes circular...

[PW_Plack]

Kevin,

No, it's NOT allright! Visitors to the forum get to the list of threads, and see your bold-type accusation that Star Bee sent you defective materials. Unless they follow the link and read all the way down here, they never find out the truth.

I think you own Dana an apology. If it were me, I'd start a new thread called "Apologies to Star Bee!" and post the correction. And I wouldn't blame FedEx by name either, because you never gave them the chance to make it good!

Guys, if we get something from a vendor that's not right, we need to give them the benefit of the doubt and follow the logical procedures before we tell the world we've been wronged. The world of gyroplane parts suppliers will get even smaller if companies trying hard to do the right thing get their names smeared like this.

Years from now, you'll bump into somebody at a fly-in who remembers only that they heard, "Star Bee sends out damaged pieces." They won't remember where they read it, and they'll probably miss the retraction.

[Brian Jackson]

Good point, Paul. In fact I'll offer the first apology to Dana... I assumed it shipped that way to Kevin before I got all the facts. I should have asked if the box was damaged or showed signs of being dropped. I'm sorry Dana. I don't think Ralph Taggart would buy Bee parts from anyone unless he knew they were the best of the best... and he chose StarBee.

Brian Jackson

[KDOG]

I don't see any damage on the box, but its cardboard and taped up on the end so I don't think you'll see if it got dropped by the shipper that way... anyway, good point PW, I'll go start new thread...

[Douglas Riley]

After running a gyro parts-n-materials company for about 13 years, I have a pretty good supply of shipper horror stories. Dropping a "do not drop on end" package -- on its end -- sounds pretty believeable!