"Axle Bolt Extensions"

[treaze]

Hi - Can anybody explain what Ralph means by axle bolt extensions for the nosewheel, to use for ground steering? And what parts this consists of and how assembled? I've searched the forum and the plans, and can't find any discussion of this. Thanks.

[fiveboy]

I have no idea but my guess is two places where cables (and springs) might be attached and slaved to the rudder pedals?

Thats how my AC is set up.

[treaze]

No, if you go to Ralph's http://www.thegyrobee.com/nose.htm, you'll see a maddeningly blurry pic of a nosewheel setup. It shows what appears to be an axle bolt about three times as long as what came with my Starbee nosewheel assembly. But I don't think they make AN3 bolts that long, and if they do, it'd be very expensive and prone to bending. So, I'm thinking it must be something else. "Extension," after all, implies something added on, not just a longer bolt.

[Chuck Roberg]

I'm sure if you sent Ralph an email he would explain it to you.

If you look at the picture closely. You will notice there is no direct connection between the rudder pedals and nose wheel.

This is because on pavement and as Ralph explains at faster taxi speeds the prop blast over the rudder is effective enough to provide steering.

But because of the friction on grass the prop blast is not enough to provide adequate steering. I've tried this on gyros before that were set up like this and either the turn radius is really large or the gyro will not turn at all.

So Ralph added the nose wheel extensions so when your on grass or need a tight turn you move your feet from the rudder pedals to the extensions.

You said you have the Star Bee gyro. My memory is a little fuzzy but I don't think the Star Bee needs the extensions. Doesn't the Star Bee have a direct/indirect link between the rudder pedals and front tire. It may be cables and/or springs. If so then forget about the extensions.

[treaze]

I understand all that. I'm building per Ralph's plans, except that I've substituted Starbee's nose block and used their nosewheel fork, too. I'm using the soft link between rudder pedals and nosewheel fork with springs, per Ralph's plans. But to provide more positive nosewheel steering at low speeds, I'm interested in using Ralph's "Axle Bolt Extensions" for that purpose. But he just mentions these in passing, with a pic, and I can't find more definitive info. Curious. I'm surprised this topic hasn't hit the forum before. Maybe I'm missing something.

[Dirtydog]

treaze : Take a look at my nose wheel I believe that I have a lot of turn now, I can turn petty sharp. But it is up to you!

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20414
http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=54508&d=1238031852

I am 5'8" and with the pedals turned the other way my knees were up and I did not like it..

"Axle Bolt Extensions" is this the Wheel axle or the Front wheel bolt on the nose wheel?

[treaze]

Dirty Dog - I don't know how to upload pics, but if you go to Ralph's http://www.thegyrobee.com/nose.htm, you'll see the axle bolt extensions I'm talking about.

[Redbaron]

Have you done any Taxiing with your bee dog? What kind of turn radius can you get with those springs?

[Dirtydog]

treaze : I use big enough springs now that my wheels turn even in the grass. I was showing someone to day. No problem I did not use this treaze......

Redbaron : I just change to a bigger spring I will give you the number I got it from Home depot just last week. I am thinking maby 7' round per the taxi I did in the back yard today.....

Picture 1: Is what you are talking about. I have never seen anyone use it as of yet. ( might be a piece of all thread rod)


Picture 2: is my setup but it is not facing the right way....

[Redbaron]

Neat! Quicksilver uses some sort of springs on their nose gears. I wonder if you could use a direct linkage without springs? At my landing strip surrounded by trees, the crosswinds usually die out once you get below the trees

[Dirtydog]

Redbaron : I read in one of the other threads not to hard link the nose, you need it loose for the rudder Vs.pedals I will see If I can find the H/Depot package to get the #'s off of it for you.

[treaze]

Dirtydog - Yes, your arrow points to exactly what I'm talking about. And the comment about an all-threaded rod might be exactly what that is. Great tip! It'd need three sleeves--one for the wheel and one on each side where the foot would push. I haven't taxied my gyro yet--not nearly ready for that yet (no engine yet, etc). I tried springs from HD and Lowe's but they seemed too soft. I got some from McMaster-Carr that seem like they might work when the time comes. I understand it's a balancing act between getting them hard enough that the nosewheel will eventually follow rudder-pedal input during taxi, but not so strong that the gyro won't take an abrupt turn on touchdown if there's a hardover rudder for a crosswind. So, like they say, "we'll see." I'll let you guys know how the threaded rod thing turns out.

[Dirtydog]

treaze :
The ones I picked up the other day were perfect... 1" in diameter or around and 4-1/2" long you need it to be 1" shorter that the distance. I can sit on in the garage and move the rudder and the tire will move now. But I have the # on the receipt from H/Dop.

I didn't like that because it to me was just one more thing the trip over.

[Harry_S.]

Terry,

Does the end of your wheel axle have a threaded hole? If not, you could put one in the ends and install AN bolts. I wouldn't even think about using threaded rod stock...way too weak for that job.

A piece of tubing, the length of the extended bolt, will give added strength to the bolt. I believe that set-up will be strong enough for ground steering, as long as you're rolling...you'll find out it don't/won't take much to turn that wheel. ;)


Cheers :)

[treaze]

Harry S - My nosewheel is part of the the Starbee gear package. They use a standard AN4 bolt, maybe about a -44 length, for the nosewheel axle. I was thinking of trying a 3/16" threaded rod about 14" long, the strongest I could find (stainless?) (McMaster-Carr has a large selection), inside three sections of 1/4" OD 6061T6 tubing--one for the axle portion between the forks, and the other two outboard of the forks, that I steer with. Anyway, as was suggested to me, I put in a private email to Ralph to ask what design he had for that. If I get a response, I'll pass it along. Thanks.

[Dirtydog]

treaze : Here is the box I bought my springs in.

Picture 1: This is what it looks like, pretty big in a way.

Picture 2:If you click on the picture you can zoom to read the numbers

[Redbaron]

Thanks dog, this is very helpful I saw no mention of where to get springs in the plans, sounds like your springs have just the right tension, only flying in a good crosswind will really tell tho.:hail:

[RockyMeLad]

Terry,

The "extension" does not have to be the axle itself. Several guys have used a piece of angle stock bolted or pop-rivited to the top-rear of the wheel bracket.

Any chance of getting some pictures of your build?

[Dirtydog]

Redbaron :
Well I cheated a little I got tired of trying different springs myself, so I ask Dana about what size spring to use and he told me get one that is about 1" thick or around and about 1" shorter that the full reach. So that is what I came up with and it works great. :yo:

Treaze : Look back through the past post from the beginning and it is most helpful. At least I thought so......:whoo:

[treaze]

Dirtydog - Beautiful pics, and thanks for spring ID info. That looks like a pretty skookum spring. I'll look for it. In the meantime, last night I ordered what I'll try for the axle extensions: a 1/4" x 12" steel rod threaded just at each end with 1-1/2" of 1/4"-28 threads. I'll replace the existing bolt axle with that, center it, then slip 3/8" OD .058" wall 6061T6 tubing over each side that projects out from the forks and then finish it up with a large AN970-4 washer and AN365-428A nut each outboard end. At least that's the plan.

If I can remember to do it, I'll weigh the existing and as modified, too, to see what the weight penalty is for this (this being a UL machine). And if some kind soul can point me in the direction for finding instructions on how to post pics to this forum, I'll do so, with full ID of parts used and sources.

[Tom_Millican]

Try this thread for how to insert pictures.

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1274

[Harry_S.]

Try this thread for how to insert pictures.

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1274


Yep, I second that. Mike made it real easy...even I did it. :D


Cheers :)

[Dirtydog]

treaze : (POST PIC) Give me a call and I will walk you through it on the phone if you want.

[RICK MARTIN]

Terry,

Chuck has explained it pretty well. The extensions in Ralph's photo are for the steering assist on grass or just when you need a tighter radius turn.

A lot of people have built the Bee to plans with no problems. And I have learned to respect the way Ralph designed the Bee.

Many folks like the soft linked steering in the original design. But I decided to go with the most simple design available and the safest for landing. That means the free-castering type found on the original Bensens. The Bee was my first gyro and I chose it for its forgiving nature in the air and on the ground. I felt that this nose wheel set up just served to enhance the safety of the machine.

The free-castering set up enhances the landing safety because you will not have a situation where you are landing in a cross wind (compensating with pedal input one way or the other) and possibly bring the nose wheel down at an angle while rolling too fast. This could result in a tip over especially with a beginning gyro pilot. Note: the extra wide main gear on the Bee also helps with imperfect landings. Of course the nose wheel should not touch the ground until you have almost zero ground speed. But beginners are prone to all sorts of miscalculations.

The modification also allowed me to attach the cables to the top of the pedals and delete the control horn (fewer parts & weight). Ralph had a good reason for his original cable routing (to keep them out of your way when getting in and out of the machine) but I don't find this to be a problem.

The firtst photo is my Bee. The second is from Gary Goldsberry's machine. I figured he knew a thing or two so I used his as a model.

I hope this helps.

[Dirtydog]

treaze :
Here is a couple more terry! Looks like you have some good help now so I will step aside for now. :cool: I think the pictures are more paddle brakes or scrub brakes than steering.

[treaze]

Thanks for all the input and instructions for posting pics. I hope my first pic will post ok--it's just a plain-vanilla "before" pic of my front end before the axle bolt extensions. It's pretty stock except for some minor tweaks from the drawings to make it work as intended. And many, many thanks to all the old posts re difficulties with all this (I've been lurking for a long time)--it was all essential info. I think my springs are going to be too weak, but I'll see how they do. I bot some of dirtydog's springs yesterday, but they're so strong I think they'd act more as hard linkages, and I do not want that nose wheel taking off in some wild direction on touchdown.

[Dirtydog]

Treaze : This is why I had to change my springs. I sat on the seat and pushed the rudder pedals while I was "sitting still" and the wheel did not turn. I thought maybe if I was moving it will do right! Well I cranked the engine up in the back yard and started down to the back of the property some 400' I had not gotten 30' and needed to turn to the right so I pushed the right pedal and the bird went straight headed for the woods bad move. I had to get off and turn it myself. "This was on yard grass" so this is
why I changed the springs.
Now then I sit on the seat on (smooth) concert the wheel turns and the grass sitting still it "wants to but only about an inch or two" (Rolling) in the grass it moves great!

Also Starbee's did not include my springs in my build I had to get my own. went through 3 sets of springs before finding the right ones. So you might want to try moving to see if the wheel will change directions first. Also weight has something to do with it I am sure...215lbs

The gyrobee plans don't tell you what size spring to use.....:wacko:

Did you get yours from Starbee's also?

[treaze]

Dirtydog - Yeah, I understand the compromises involved, I think. But now with those hard springs and you come in with a crosswind and hardover rudder, what kind of action does that nosewheel which is also forced hardover by those springs give you on touchdown? I guess, ideally, I want springs that are just weak enough that the nosewheel will pretty much center itself with the direction of travel on touchdown regardless of rudder input. But maybe that also means there's very little nosewheel steering capability there. I don't know.

The springs I have on there now came from McMaster-Carr: part 94135K28. Stainless 4" length, 7/16" OD, .048 wire. I suspect from just rolling around a little bit in my very cramped little garage that they're too soft. But I'm a lightweight at about 140#, so maybe it'll all be ok in action--esp if I've got workable axle bolt extensions for low-speed steering. I've tried just about every other spring that'll even remotely fit, like from HD, etc. Not happy with the choices.

Btw, my axle bolt just arrived--empty! The rod departed the packaging somewhere in transit. Aaaaaaaugh!

[RICK MARTIN]

To clarify;

The purpose of the springs (instead of a hard linkage) is to, in the event of a rudder-compensated croswind landing, allow the wheel some degree of natural caster. This should allow the turned nose wheel to quickly align itself with the gyro's direction of travel and encourage the gyro not to tip over. So the soft linkage is a good idea if you are going to link the pedals to the nose wheel. The drawback, as you have discovered, is a less than responsive steering system in certain situations.

With the simpler sytem, the drawback is having to reposition your feet to the steering bar/brake when needed. And, in relation to the pedals, the control input on the steering bar/brake is reversed for turning. This sounds bad, but in reality is is no harder than steering your car with your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel compared to having your hand on the top of the wheel. You just get used to it and it becomes instinct. We humans are a very adaptable breed.

The great part of the Bensen system is that you can turn on a dime on any surface at any speed and you have positive nose wheel alignment and castering ability. It's the best of all three issues.

[Dirtydog]

treaze : I understand, just trying to help out...........:focus:

[Harry_S.]

The great part of the Bensen system is that you can turn on a dime on any surface at any speed and you have positive nose wheel alignment and castering ability. It's the best of all three issues.





No argument on that point, Rick. Had no problems at all with his system.

On landing, if one would practice keeping the nose wheel from touching until any fwd. roll is practically stopped, it will better serve him.


Cheers :)

[treaze]

Ok, I got it all done. Mission accomplished. See pic. Components are: 2ea AN970-4 and 2ea AN960-416 washers; 2 ea sections of 3/8" OD x .058" wall 6061T6 tubing approx 3-3/8" long (with the Starbee fork); and, 1 ea part # 6516K14 from McMaster-Carr--this is a 12" zinc plated steel rod 1/4" dia with 1/4"-28 threaded ends, righthand threads. The threads are only on the outer 1-1/2" of the rod ends.

I haven't detected any tendency of the rod to bend. It seems pretty strong to me. The thing I don't especially like is that my feet tend to roll off those outboard washers. I wish I could think of something else there that would be "grippier." But in general, I'm happy to have this steering capability now.

The weight penalty: The original Starbee axle and hardware weighed 1.5 oz, whereas this setup weighs 4 oz.

One little trick to the installation: One nut will probably always go on harder than the other. So figure out which one that is, and put that one on first (with a couple of threads showing, of course) while gripping some usused threads with vicegrips. Then slip the washer on next to it, then the tubing, then the other washer, then shove it thru the forks, then the rest of the hardware. The harder nut stays stationary on the rod while putting on the easier nut. Otherwise, it just doesn't work.

Something I thought of that may address the potential hazard of making a crosswind landing with a hard-linked cocked-over nosewheel: If you can operate so you're landing more into the crosswind, i.e., more cross-runway, instead of landing crosswind but tracking down the centerline, you avoid a hardover rudder getting that nosewheel cocked over. Just a thought--don't know how practical in real life.

Thanks, everybody!

[RICK MARTIN]

Looks good Terry. That set up should work fine.

[treaze]

Thanks, Rick. We shall see how well it works out.

[danmcgee]

Treaze, it might just be me or the way I am looking at the pic you posted but where you have the rudder cable attatched to you peddle at the bottom would this not make your rudder work in reverse. Push the peddle forward would move the cable back towards the rear appling right rudder input not left. I can't see what is on the other side of the peddle but the cable is mounted to the bottom should it not be mounted to the top side of the peddle.

Dan

[Passin' Thru]

Dan, that's the "GyroBee Way"! The cables cross back there someplace and there's a pivot plate attached someplace up in front of the pedals. when you examine the plans, it makes more sense.:)

[RockyMeLad]

Something I thought of that may address the potential hazard of making a crosswind landing with a hard-linked cocked-over nosewheel: If you can operate so you're landing more into the crosswind, i.e., more cross-runway, instead of landing crosswind but tracking down the centerline, you avoid a hardover rudder getting that nosewheel cocked over. Just a thought--don't know how practical in real life.

Thanks, everybody!
Landing at an angle is an approved technique. Into the wind, across but not down the runway. A caution though, be sure you are "lined-up" with the direction you're moving. Another way of saying "not crabbing" when you touch down.

In the extreme, it's the old joke about the two drunk pilots that landed and discovered the runway was "real" short, but so wide they couldn't see the sides.

[Dirtydog]

danmcgee : Kind of like this setup Dan the cables are out of the way....:suspicious:

Cables are closer to the frame, less chance to trip over them.

[treaze]

Dan - Phase 12 of Ralph's plans explains the routing of the rudder cables and the crossing. If you were to construct the rudder pedals differently than Ralph calls out, so the cables took off from above the pivot point instead of below, then there'd be no need to cross the cables.

Which reminds me, Ralph says to cross them aft of the fairlead block. I can't figure out why--wouldn't that result in the cables rubbing the bottom of the boom before they got to the rudder? I crossed mine fwd of the fairlead, so the cables are parallel to the boom and going up to my mocked-up rudder control horns at an estimated position.

Sorry if this is going off-topic.

[Dirtydog]

treaze : Looks to be in the wrong place?

You will gain height as well as this point is stronger because you have more metal. I don't think that I would trust the gear at that point. "Just my thoughts" it will push in to easy there.

[danmcgee]

Well hell that makes all the sence in the world now, see told ya, you had those cabels hooked up right. I would change that axle shaft mount to.

Dan

[Passin' Thru]

treaze, I noticed in the photos your keel tube extrusion has radiused corners. Where you find that? Can you share the source?

[Dirtydog]

Passin' Thru : I don't know where dana gets his metal.....:noidea:

[treaze]

I got my keel, tailboom, and 3/16"-wall mast as raw materials from Starbee. That's how they came--sharp corners on the mast, radiused on the others. I wish they all matched one way or the other, but that's all I could find.

[danmcgee]

Are we sure this is 6061 T6 or better then?

[danmcgee]

I only say that becasue from online metals all the 6063 has rounded over edges.

[Passin' Thru]

Are we sure this is 6061 T6 or better then?
Dan, I didn't wish to sound negative, but that's what I was wondering also.

I only say that becasue from online metals all the 6063 has rounded over edges.

Yep, that was also my observation. I have never seen 6061-xx or better with those type corners. Only ornamental grades ...

Perhaps Star Bee is having their own custom shapes extruded???

[Dirtydog]

Well I know that I could have sworn that I saw the 6061-6T on the metal before I took the acetone to clean it. Also got mine from Starbee's and I don't really think that Dana would put metal in a kit to let them get hurt!

[Passin' Thru]

Well I know that I could have sworn that I saw the 6061-6T on the metal before I took the acetone to clean it. Also got mine from Starbee's and I don't really think that Dana would put metal in a kit to let them get hurt!

It could be he is having 6061-T6 custom extruded. I don't know, but I can sure find out!

[treaze]

Hey guys - I just went out in the garage to check, and I'm glad to report that my mast from Starbee with the sharp corners is stamped 6061T6.

[RICK MARTIN]

I know my plans called for non-radiused tubing.

If the inner walls of the 2x2 tubing have rounded corners, when you drill the holes for the cheek plates, you will score the rounded corner. Is this a problem? I'm no engineer but it just doesn't seem right.

[Dirtydog]

treaze : I believe they are talking about the 2X2 with the rounded edges or the keel no being the 6061-6T

[treaze]

Ok, I checked again. My rounded-edge keel and tailboom from Starbee are both marked 6061 T6.

[Dirtydog]

Well I looked too but can't say it is 6061-6T because of the paint. But as I said I sure it was on there.:rolleyes:

I do have the rounded edges on the keel and the tail section.......
MAST is SQUARE

[treaze]

My receipts from Starbee say 6061T6, too. I think I'm covered.

[Dirtydog]

I have the split mast and I know I have 2 pieces of that are 2024-T4..... Dana told me to make sure I paint or covered this because it would rust.

[treaze]

Aluminum rusts? News to me.

[Dirtydog]

treaze :
No he said that it had metal property's that would would let corrosion / oxidization start.

[danmcgee]

Hey Dog here are your axle serts had a problem with the lathe. Cucked a pieace of stock accross the garge and stuck in the wall just missed my head by about an inch lucky the bikes were outside. got the lathe fixed this morning and here they are.

Will not be able to mail now untill tuesday.

Dan

[Dirtydog]

Looks Great there Dan! I will be waiting.

[treaze]

I bought some bicycle handlebar grips today and installed them on my axle bolt extensions. I inserted plastic tubing as filler to take up most of the gap between the 3/8" OD al tubing extensions and the ID of the grips. It helps keep my feet from slipping off the extensions. I think they look better, too.

Also, as can be seen in the pic, I finished up my scrub brake. I used bicycle handlebar grips on that, too--they're pretty hard to force onto the 1" tubing I used, because they're made for 7/8" handlebars. The brkts are just the like rudder pedal brkts. It seems like it might actually work. "We shall see."

I've also removed the springs. My intent, when I install the control stick system, is to use a single spring attached from the the aft center of the nosewheel fork to the fwd attach point of the control system. When I get that done, I'll have my ground braking, ground steering, and flight steering (rudder pedals) all independent.

[treaze]

I bought some bicycle handlebar grips today and installed them on my axle bolt extensions. I inserted plastic tubing as filler to take up most of the gap between the 3/8" OD al tubing extensions and the ID of the grips. The grips help keep my feet from slipping off the extensions. I think they look better, too.

Also, as can be seen in the pic, I finished up my scrub brake. I used bicycle handlebar grips on that, too--they're pretty hard to force onto the 1" tubing I used, because I think they're made for 7/8" handlebars. The brkts are just like the rudder pedal brkts. It seems like it might actually work. "We shall see."

I've also removed the springs. My intent, when I install a control stick system, is to use a single spring attached from the the aft center of the nosewheel fork to the fwd attach point of the control system. When I get that done, I'll have my ground braking, ground steering, and flight steering (rudder pedals) all independent.

[treaze]

Sorry for the duplicate entry. I've tried three times to edit and delete the dupe, but my browser (Safari) crashes each time. So you're stuck with it.

[treaze]

Well, after a long hiatus, I managed to do a tiny job today. I pulled out the AN4-22A bolts and all those busy little spacers as shown on G8-6, and replaced them with AN4-12A's. I had already removed the side bolts from the nose wheel fork and those problematic springs. Simplify, simplify. My intent is to try just letting the nose wheel trail, and see how that works now that I have the axle extensions for manual steering.

[phantom]

I have been using this type of tube for many years and it is 6061 T6, my supplier don't have square corner 2x2 in 6061, their square corner is 6063. I took a 6 foot peice of square corner 6061 from a company in USA and a 6 foot peice of my round corner 6061 and mounted them in a jig about 10 feet apart and hooked a chain hoist to them and pulled them together, the square corner tube failed with no damage to the round corner stuff.I did this before flying with it, the only thing you have to be careful of is when clamping engine mounts and things to a mast, it is eaiser to crush unless you use a close fitting clamp or spacers inside the tube or both.

[RockyMeLad]

Yo Terry,
The bee front wheel may need some "encouragement" to go straight (those two big wheels are evil). But I digress. . .
A light to medium spring from the rear, center of the front wheel bracket pulling straight back should do the trick. Steer with the axle extensions on the ground and takeoff/fly with the rudder. A winning combination used by several folks.

[Redbaron]

hey treaze how you doin man? hope you doin good get that bee goin buddy!

[treaze]

RockyMeLad - That's exactly the setup I plan. Great minds think alike, I guess.
Redbaron - Still recovering from a very major op to remove a very aggressive cancerous tumor from my pelvis. Took 5 Mayo surgeons 12 hrs. Then like a macho dummy, I went and got a flu shot. Not smart--I wasn't strong enough for that and it wiped me out. Trying to get strong enough now for a biopsy of some lymph nodes thru my windpipe. Then looking fwd to long-duration chemo and rad treatments. Yuck.

[Dirtydog]

treaze : Great to see you guy! I missed you when I did not hear from you for a few months! He you know the springs I told you about for the front steering wheel. I got to try mine out while doing my balancing. It worked great for me... But you might not weigh as much as I do!

[treaze]

Thanks, Dirtydog. I suspect you're right about the weight thing. I used to weigh approx 140#, currently down to 132.

[Dirtydog]

Yo Terry,
Steer with the axle extensions on the ground and takeoff/fly with the rudder. A winning combination used by several folks.


My leg are to short to reach down to the axle bolt if i put mine down there.... But how did you do your RockyMeLad?

[RockyMeLad]

... But how did you do your RockyMeLad?

???? I'll try to answer what I think your question is...
RockyMeLad's bird, the DesertBee, has always had wheel control via the rudder pedals. Originally like the Gyrobee plans, but now I sit higher and made my own rudder pedals and front end.

[Dirtydog]

RockyMeLad :
I like it! I was wondering how treaze was going to reach the pedals or the bolt that he had for his steering..... But I forgot he was using the fiberglass seat.. Makes a difference. I am sitting to high to try to turn IF I had bolt like treaze is going to use....

[treaze]

Fyi - I have Starbee's seat (with pad) mounted where Ralph's plans say to, and Starbee's nose block and nosewheel fork, and I have no trouble reaching the axle-bolt extensions. And I'm only 5'7".

[Dirtydog]

treaze :
Not saying any bad words about it. I have the seat tank and I can't begin to touch the ground or down there. My seat sits higher that's all treaze! In some way I wish I could reach that far......:smokin:

When I changed my springs out the last time that did the trick for me. Great turning radius and even when the wheel touches the ground at a angle it goes right back to straight. I hope yours works for you too! :peace:

I am 5'8" but it is the seat tank........that all

[Redbaron]

Thats good to know treaze, I'm 5'6" so I guessing your legs are comfy on the pedals! I'm going with ralphs nose block with plates, that should move the pedals back 1 inch from tha starbee block. Does anyone know the perfect pilot height for the best leg comfort? :spy:


Fyi - I have Starbee's seat (with pad) mounted where Ralph's plans say to, and Starbee's nose block and nosewheel fork, and I have no trouble reaching the axle-bolt extensions. And I'm only 5'7".

[Dirtydog]

Redbaron :
I changed my pedal length because my feet were jammed up. I moved my pedal to the other side of the L bracket Now i can stretch out and fly! if that happens

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20414

[RockyMeLad]

Does anyone know the perfect pilot height for the best leg comfort? :spy:

Yo Red,

Tall enough to fit the pedals as installed? :p Please don't try to change your height. :D

Best to fit the bird to the pilot. Simulate your seating position and have someone measure where the pedals would be most comfortable for you. Then adjust the build so the pedals are at that location. Actually rather easy to do.

[Redbaron]

awe shucks rocky, I was thinking of gettin that leg lengthening surgery if things don't work out!:lol:

Yo Red,

Tall enough to fit the pedals as installed. :p Please don't try to change your height. :D

Best to fit the bird to the pilot. Simulate your seating position and have someone measure where the pedals would be most comfortable for you. Then adjust the build so the pedals are at that location. Actually rather easy to do.

[treaze]

As a belated finishing up of this thread, this is a pic of the nosewheel centering spring I just worked up. I seems like it's about the right strength. The aft end is attached to a brk I made that fits under the fwd end of the cyclic control bearing block thing. The pkg is from H-D or Lowe's and I used one of the larger springs in the pkg.