Can you use the 3/16th Aluminum in place of all 1/8th steel?

[KDOG]

I see that StarBee uses the 3/16th aluminum for the cluster plates instead of the 1/8th stainless steel. I'm wondering if you can substitute the same way all over the bird. Since I have the blade for cutting aluminum for my table saw, I figure on getting a 2'x2' sheet from wicks or aircraft spruce and cutting the plates myself. Except for that shock plate, I think I better buy that from Starbee...

Anyone know where on the bird this idea won't work?

[KDOG]

Also, does anyone know if you need the shock plate if you use the modified landing gear from StarBee?

[Brian Jackson]

If memory serves, StarBee uses springs and square tube for their modified main gear, thus nulling the need for a shock plate, which uses a bungee system.

[gyroblackwell]

I used S.S. in only one spot on my gyrobee. The plates that hold the mast and keel tubes together. )the 3 into 1 location)

I did not use the bungi sytem. I opted for the fiberglass rods like the gyrotech design (only much lighter then gyrotechs)

Check ralph taggart's site for info on the plating. He is the designer of the gyrobee.

Tim

[KDOG]

I used S.S. in only one spot on my gyrobee. The plates that hold the mast and keel tubes together. )the 3 into 1 location)

Right, thats' the plate that StarBee sells the 3/16th alu. instead of the 1/8th S.S.

Glad to hear about not needing the shock plate, since I'll be using the StarBee modified gear :) !

Hopefully, Ralph will pop in and share his views on the subject....

[Brian Jackson]

Right, thats' the plate that StarBee sells the 3/16th alu. instead of the 1/8th S.S...

Those parts are called "cluster plates." One item of note is that by using the thicker aluminum cluster plates, there ends up being a very small mating error for the tank support diagonal struts... see sheet G7-5 on Ralph's plans. The diagonal strut on the plans mount flush and planar with the outside surfaces of the S/S cluster plate and the tank support horizontal strut. That's because both material thicknesses are 1/8". The 3/16" aluminum cluster plates will kick the diagonal strut out 1/16" because the mating surfaces are no longer coplanar. However, a .063" washer or sheet stock spacer placed between the tank diagonal and horizontal strut should true up the contact surfaces.

I just happened to notice this today when reviewing the plans against StarBees component/parts.

Brian Jackson

[KDOG]

Hmmm, I wonder if the 1/8th" stainless steel will cut ok on my saw...anyone know?

[Brian Jackson]

NO!!! It's even difficult for pro-machine shops to work with, depending on what you're building and the carbon content of the S/S. DO NOT attempt to cut it with your table saw or you could end up having a really bad day, possibly in the hospital.

[Chuck Irby]

Kevin, what kind of saw were you planning to use? Certain band saws with the proper blades and lube have no problem with typical SS's, i.e. type 304 and 308.

[KDOG]

Gotcha...Aluminum it is then...

[KDOG]

I bought a high tooth count blade that is made to cut metals for my table saw.

[Douglas Riley]

I don't use any of my good tools around that nasty stainless. It's brutal on tools. I cut it with a hand hacksaw with the oldest, crummiest blade I can find on the shop floor, and do the finer shaping with a bench grinder, followed by hand-filing with a file I don't care too much about.

6061-T6 has a tensile strength of 35,000-40,000 psi, depending on the manufacturing method. Common stainless is roughly double that, and 4130N is in the same neighborhood as stainless. So 3/16 6061 isn't quite comparable to 1/8 4130 or stainless.

With 20-20 hindsight, I might use 2" x 1/8" 4130 strip on 'Bee cluster plates. The 3/16 6061 version should be fine as well, but be careful about assuming it's always a perfect swap for 1/8 steel.