View Full Version : Ok, is it alright to attatch tail boom earlier?
I asked this question before but everyone is fixated on the painting/anodizing thread. Thats OK, Ill just ask here. I see that in the documentation, the tail boom isn't attatched till phase 8. But I see in alot of pictures of peoples' "in progress" birds that it is attatched much sooner. I myself don't see why it can't be attatched when you get the frame together but then again, I haven't built one yet so I'm asking to be sure... I stated in the other thread, that I am starting to get nervous (giddy?) cuz I'm about to order my first set of parts from StarBee as soon as the payment I'm sending tomorrow hits my VISA!!!
08-26-2004, 02:49 PM
KDOG, you'll find as you get into the project that you're putting parts on and taking them off all the time. That's why Ralph tells you to use scrap hardware for your interim assembly. It's OK to put the tail boom on earlier; you may have to take it off again one or a dozen times before you are done anyway.
(I built my first gyro in secret while I was a teenager. I'd come home from school each afternoon, put together a couple parts to work on and then take them all apart again and hide them before my father got home. Went on for quite awhile before it got impractical and I had to confess...)
08-26-2004, 06:04 PM
Hey Kdog, I might have some left over parts from my rebuild, that will fit your gyrobee. I have a brock nose wheel assy. A fiberglass seat with cover. and possibly a flying tail. If you might be interested, let me know. there is no hurry, but I am changing the nose wheel, seat, and tail, they are not damaged.
08-27-2004, 05:24 AM
Boy, you hit the nail on the head Doug. I have taken mine apart and put it back together quite a few times while building it. I just finished painting most of the parts so I am waiting on getting my workshop built to finally keep it together.
KDOG, It doesn't matter putting the tailboom on earlier, just takes up more room. If you have ample workshop area then keep it all together during the build.
My 'Bee is currently in several places around the house. Most of the small pieces are wrapped in newspaper and stored in one of those plastic bins you get at Wal Mart for $3.88. I do have my mast and keel put together in one side of the living room but somebody moved the coffee table net to it and now I have a couple spots with the paint chipped off that I have to repair. :mad:
08-27-2004, 05:57 AM
Doggone it! What is the world coming to when you can't build an aircraft (or motorcycle) in your living room, with out it getting scratched!!! ;)
Scott, thanks for the offer, I will keep that in mind, just ordered my first set of parts. Oh boy. Here we go!!!
08-27-2004, 06:33 AM
Within reason, the Bee can be assembled in any order you like. The "Phases" were created to provide a reasonable building sequence that was also consistent with the desire of some builders to "pay as you go". Now that real kits are available, there is much more opportunity to "jump around" in terms of the construction sequence. The use of temporary hardware-store hardware gives you the ability to tear stuff down as many times as required until you are ready for final assembly - something that usually happens after finishing.
A note about the tail boom that most folks seem to have missed. The tail boom can be removed (unhook the rudder cables and pull two bolts), which permits the gyro to be tileted back and rolled into a standard garage. The machine will tilt over backwards with the tail boom off due to the weight of the engine, so the boom has to be replaced to store the gyro in the garage, or you can make a short 2x2 stub to use in place of the boom. The use of a stub allows you to store the gyro in much less space.
08-27-2004, 07:32 AM
Ralph, I put a sack o' cement on the 'Bee's seat for garage storage and for maneuvering in/out the door. (By the way, did you get the private message I sent you through this forum?)
KDOG, you mean my father? I didn't actually confess, I just left the thing put together and let him find it in our cellar shop. He wasn't amused! He was a Cub pilot and an aviation lover, mind you, but he thought gyros were widowmakers. (Heard that one before? It was truer then -- early 70's -- than now.) Sadly, he died a few months before I got that original Bensen gyroglider flying.
I like to think he would eventually have become a gyro convert. Wish I could give him a ride in the big Dominator tandem now...
Just picked up a nice drill press and some bits... wicks just called me to verify my order. ITs really happening!!! Somebody pinch me!!! ;)
08-27-2004, 12:32 PM
I'm about 4 days behind you, Kevin! What kind/model drill press did you end up getting? Did you get a vice attachment for holding your material? Since we're starting our Bees about the same time, it'll be interesting comparing notes with you during our construction. It'd be great if we could do narrative pictorial documentations of our projects and web them. When did Wicks tell you to expect the arrival of your materials? And what lengths did you order the materials cut in for shipment?
Hey, I feel your excitement!
Its a Delta 10" drill press with 2.5" of travel. They had a cheaper one there (Lowes) but it looked/felt a little TOO cheap and only had 2" of travel. I picked up some drill bits and a nice square-level that has the 1/32 markings. I am going to photo-document everystep of the process so I can share with everyone!!! Dang, having problem with pics....standby....Darnnit!!! How do ya upload pics? :mad:
Anyway, they haven't given me an ETA on my tubing but the are coming in the 6' for the tail boom and the 4' for the keel, I have the mast tube coming from StarBee since I can't find another supplier that sells the 2x2 in 3/16. I found a metal shop that deals in stainless steel sheet. I might take a ride up there and see what they got. Thats all I have now, until payday! ;)
08-27-2004, 04:28 PM
Groovy, Kevin. I've worked with a local laser cutting company in the past. I was thinking about using them again for cutting some of the plate parts like the shock plate, rotor cheek plates, etc.
08-27-2004, 06:39 PM
Get some center drills, they are bits that have a large shank and will not walk.
use it for drilling pilot holes before you step up to 1/4"etc.
LEAF also sells a drill jig for drilling tubing.
A good set of machinist squares come in handy also. Lots of sharpie markers layout fluid, and a spring loaded center punch.
I just bought a DELTA 16 inch drill press, my bench top one was worn out.
Let me know if you have any questions, I am rebuilding right now, But I make my living as an aircraft mechanic, so if you have any questions about specialized tools, let me know.
Keep us posted!
08-27-2004, 09:25 PM
Hi Scott, and thank you for offering to answer some building questions. Actually I have a couple. I've never used layout fluid before, but I assume it's the blue dye for locating hole center crosshairs, etc? How exactly does that work? And what are all the sharpie markers for? I had also read that the aluminum should be drilled with Kerosene as a lubricant.
Lastly, when deburring the thru-holes, is it desirable to create a very tiny chamfer(+/- 0.01"), or leave the material square (no chamfer)? What is the accepted method and tools for deburring small holes?
I know these are probably idiot questions, but where aircraft are concerned I like to cover every detail, leaving nothing to chance or ignorance.
P.S., by the way, nifty homepage!
08-28-2004, 04:47 AM
If thats an idiot question Brian,then that makes two of us mate. :D
08-28-2004, 05:01 AM
I would like to know if we should use lubricant on the bit and the tubing when drilling. If so, what kind? Also, whats a chamfer? And what should you use for deburring the holes? And I suppose the spring loaded center punch is for "starting" the holes, correct? Thanks in advance....
08-28-2004, 05:57 AM
For Lubricating the bits I just use a couple of drops of Cool Tool, but alight machine oil like 3in1 will work. I put it in a small bottle, like an eye drop bottle and keep it right at the drill press.
For the deburing, look at a freshly drilled hole, notice the raised burr around the hole, if you don't remove the burrs, they will not allow your material to be bolted together flush. Imagine bolting together 2 flat surfaces, and throwing a few grains of sand in there between them. So you use a small deburing tool that looks like a countersink, a few turns and the burrs are gone and you have a nice chamfer, or beveled edge. Most aircraft countersinks are 100degree angle, where most comercial stuff is 60 degree.
I think that WICKS and Aircraft spruce sell them.
Also clean up, or chamfer the edges of your plates that you cut you can use a file.
The layout fluid is sprayed on lightly let it dry for a few minutes. Then when you make your measurements, you scratch through it with a small scribe, to mark areas to be cut drilled etc. Just easy to use and makes for good acuracy.
The sharpies are for where you don't need to be so accurate, and for labeling, Top, front, etc.
Yes the spring loaded center punch is for marking the holes before drilling, but it only takes one hand, No hammer involved.
Geeze! I didn't know I had a home page! It surprised me too!
The only dumb questions are the ones that are not asked.
08-28-2004, 06:10 AM
SPEED DEBURRING TOOL (6")
6" overall length. Deburrs holes fast & easy with speed handle. 100 degree deburring angle. 3/8" diameter. Replacement tip is P/N SP375-1
Part Number:SP275 Price: $15.95 Qty:
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Replacement tips for SP275 and SP375 speed deburring tools. 1 lbs. Shipping Weight
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Any how, check these guys out.
Cool. I just ordered that deburring tool.... good website, bookmarked.
08-28-2004, 07:21 AM
Me too. Prices seem reasonable too. Regarding the deburring process, I've read that it's important to do this also because sharp burred edges can concentrate stresses. For tubing, are the inside edges of the holes typically deburred? Perhaps with a very small diameter rat tail file inserted through the hole at an angle? Or is this unnecessary?
08-28-2004, 08:22 AM
As Ralph said, you can assemble in many different ways as long as common sence is used. I trial fit assemblies as I completed them but really did no disassembly once parts were painted and completed. I basically built the whole fron assembly completely before adding the tail-boom. With Ralph's documentation, the Bee goes together very easy.
Bensen Days Best Workmanship 2004
08-28-2004, 01:53 PM
I use a common hardware-store countersink bit, held in my fingers, to deburr. A few twists and you're done. I have one of those speed-handle tools from the airplane catalogs, but prefer the countersink. The angle of the c'sink isn't critical for this purpose.
I wouldn't mess with deburring the insides of the holes in tubes, unless you can reach them with a flat file from the end of the tube. Poking around with a rat-tail from outside will probably do more harm than good.
Thanks for all the help, guys. I am learning so much that my head feels like its going to explode!!!
08-28-2004, 08:29 PM
Would you like to trade phone numbers? Comparing construction notes could probably easier be done in real time.
Sure, let me email mine to you...
08-29-2004, 06:58 AM
Are you now going to keep all this good stuff to yourselves?
What good stuff? You've already got a gyro!!!
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