Open Cockpit Winter Flying R&D: Heated Clothing

[barnstorm2]

As soon as it stops raining around here I will be ready to start my flight testing.

First off I would like to say that I don't like the cold and I am not a fan of winter.

However, I am "forced" to fly during the winter for a number of reasons. First off to keep my skills up. Second, to keep my mental health up (my wife says I get "cranky" if I have not flown in at least a week). Thirdly, to keep my aircraft's engine healthy.

I do an oil analysis every oil change and during the winter the iron content in the samples goes way up. It is bad for ANY engine to sit unused for weeks at a time but for aircraft engines it seems especially bad.

Not everything is bad about winter flying. The cold air gives you very good performance and some of the views and vistas you get during the winter are truly breathtaking and unlike anything you will see any other time of year.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3262/3133499160_db36673789.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3094/3132677323_006bace12d.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3134/3133499306_fcc7fcceb8_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3082/3132677459_43f910b2e5.jpg

So far I have been using snowmobile gear. High tec thermal socks, underwear, many layers of clothes and so forth.

This keeps my torso warm but my feet and hands become too cold after about 45 minutes of flight (uncomfortable at about 25 minutes).

Very large gloves and boots won't work as you can not operate small switches or pedals effectively.

I have been wanting to use electric heated clothes for some time but the money and the power drain on the gyro have always been issues.

This year I decided to make the plunge and start to work up a system that will allow me to make cross country flights during the winter.

I am going to list all of my components with their price, details and where I purchased them in case anyone else has use for this information.

Please feel free to comment and add recommendations.

[Mike484]

Thank God I'm in Houston, I couldn't do it, look at the ice on the river, now that is COLD!

[barnstorm2]

If I had a big ol alternator and battery in my gyro and a 12V plug that could handle 15-20 amps this would be nothing. Just buy the gear, plug it in and fly.

However, I am not in that situation.

I want a system that will work for my motorcycle, my Twinstarr and a possible future single place gyroplane.

My BMW R1100S has too small of a battery and alternator to run more then 1 heated item at a time. Not believing this at first I bought a BMW heated vest, heated socks and another vest for a passenger.

I was wrong.

Sure enough, with anything more then 1 vest plugged in there was too much draw on the bike.

Single place gyros that are Rotax powered won't have much of a battery and charging system (if any) so that would require a completely separate power source.

My Twinstarr gyro does have a battery and a generator but it is about maxed out with the electronics I already have installed.

The Twinstarr's battery is a 350CCA (over 400 CA) lawn-tractor battery. I have to replace it once a year because of the beating it takes from my pre-rotator discharging it on every take-off.

My generator is a solid magnet dynamo used on Kubotas and other tractors. It is dependable, light-weight and inexpensive compared to a Lycoming alternator. However, the output is low.

Since my electrical system output and storage is already marginal I decided to use a completely separate system for the heated clothing.

I first started looking into the battery powered gloves sold on eBay and other places that use standard batteries.

I bought a pair and found they are basically junk and not useful for flying or motorcycling.

Ok, for working in the yard or going on a hike in the woods but junk for any situation that involves airflow over the fingers.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3247/3132634097_4ebab85839.jpg

They are cheap but a waste of money in my opinion.

.

[barnstorm2]

Thank God I'm in Houston, I couldn't do it, look at the ice on the river, now that is COLD!


Indeed!

I hope to someday be able to spend my winters in the south! :flame:

.

[barnstorm2]

Darn, Honey-Do attack. I will post the rest soon...


.

[barnstorm2]

Since the cheap battery op gloves are out I turned my attention to getting what you pay for.

Fellow BMW riders (and BMW themselves) use Gerbings heated clothing.

I found out that they have an "outlet" store on the web that they use to get rid of older models, refirbs and blemished items. You can save some real $$ here but you have to stay on top of the site because they are typically out of stock on most things.

Outlet store: http://www.heatedclothingoutlet.com/index.shtml

I already had a pair of Gerber socks. ( I sold off my BMW vest )
I ordered a digital controller (pulses the power to regulate heat and save energy).
I ordered a LiPo powered vest (still has not arrived)
I ordered a pair of heated glove liners (they are great).
And a wire harness.

If the outlet store has them the heated liners are $35. If not retail is $79.
http://www.heatedclothingoutlet.com/images/products/gloveliner-lg.jpg

I don't recommend buying ANY of the heated gloves as they are to thick for operating cockpit controls. You will need to buy a light glove to go over the liner.

I don't recall what I paid for the socks. The outlet store does NOT carry them. Retail is $59.00.

http://www.gerbing.com/images/productImages/socks_orig.jpg

The 2 channel controller is optional but nice if you want to save power and the 2 channel version of the controller allows separate temp control for 2 heated items. In my case gloves and socks.

Outlet $49, retail $99

http://www.heatedclothingoutlet.com/images/products/dualTempController.jpg

Next I went battery shopping at Batteries Plus.

A starting battery would not work because I need a battery that can be mostly discharged without causing damage. I also wanted a sealed battery so that there would be no danger of an acid spill.

Gell Cells are ungodly in price so I went with a sealed lead-acid deep cycle 40 Amp-hr battery. It is just a little larger then a lawn-tractor battery.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3267/3132633089_b3efb0d26c.jpg

This should last for a good cross country tip of at least 4 hours.

I also purchased a smaller pocket sized battery for use on the motorcycle and for short trips or for Connie to use when flying the Piper Cub.

It is 7.5 amp-hrs.

My hope is that it will last for about an hour or 1.5 hours.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3261/3133455588_24cb1e7daf.jpg

Here is how it works out:

12v Gloves 2.2 amps
12v Socks 2.2 amps
total (continuous) 4.4 amps.

Remember that the controller may keep the draw from being continuous.

The 40 amp battery is normally $90 and the 7.5 amp $25, but I got both batteries on sale for 10% off.

[barnstorm2]

So yesterday I went to the hangar to get the gyro ready for winter flying. I had already added Aeroshell multi-weight oil in for the last oil change and an anti-corrosion additive.

I used duct tape to cover up the oil cooler so that my oil temp will get warm enough to boil off any water in the system. Ron Awad recommended this to me a few years ago.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3260/3133454912_d2d03b05b2.jpg
I put the battery in a backpack and strapped the back pack into the passenger seat. I put the harness straps through the straps on the backpack and then used zip-ties for added reinforcement.

I can grab the battery and it does not budge.

However, I think for the final installation, I might add a bungie cord or strap.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3225/3132633803_97f264f015.jpg

I ran the wire harness up to the front seat, using zip-ties to keep the wire away from all other wires (in case of interference or accidental melt-down) and moving parts.

I mounted the controller with Velcro to the left of the pilot seat. I think I will secure it with an extra zip-tie.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3228/3132633385_4e8fbb258c.jpg

I sat down, plugged myself in and heated up to test the system. It worked well. It would have been nice to have enough wire to put the controller under the dash but I can deal with it on the side.

The system is now ready for a test flight around the pattern but it started raining before I was done with the installation and it is still raining today.

Currently the forecast does not look good until next week.

Wish me luck!

.

[Gyro_Kai]

Tim,

is that you in the first pictures flying without any pod in jeans? Heck, that looks cold.

The Gerbing equipment is quite popular here, as the wiring and regulator are offered as an extra from Autogyro-Europe. Gerbing offers leather gloves with connectors, which seem to make a lot of sense, as they are developed for the motorbike wind-chill.

Kai.

[barnstorm2]

Tim,

is that you in the first pictures flying without any pod in jeans? Heck, that looks cold.

.

Kai,

Yes, that is me in my first gyroplane, an AirCommand 447.

It was cold but it sure was nice to get some performance out of the 447.

I dug up a few more:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3078/3133396821_e91f3a4a89.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3128/3133397045_1a647aa7ea.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3197/3134218742_f3395beb31.jpg

This was only GPS I could find that would take the cold...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3113/3134218798_17a19edc73_o.jpg


The Gerbing equipment is quite popular here, as the wiring and regulator are offered as an extra from Autogyro-Europe. Gerbing offers leather gloves with connectors, which seem to make a lot of sense, as they are developed for the motorbike wind-chill. Kai.

You use them with Rotax 4-stroke powered gyros?

Does the stock rotax alternator produce enough watts or do they require the add-on rotax alternator?

.

[Gyro_Kai]

Hi Tim

You use them with Rotax 4-stroke powered gyros?

Does the stock rotax alternator produce enough watts or do they require the add-on rotax alternator?


Yes, connected to the standard 912 ULS or 914 Rotaxes.
As the MT models have pneumatics additionally to the usual mumbo-jumbo like lights, strobes, radios, the drain on that power source is sometimes too much. People were stuck on the runway, unable to start and got the help via radio: "switch off your heating or your lights before pre-rotating".

So you have to take care. There is a rumor that the police forces currently testing the MTs have to take turns on the heating (or maybe decide by rank, who is hotter). But it should be enough for one person with socks and gloves because my instructor used them all the time ("you don't need any, you will be sweating anyhow", he said, and right he was)

But you definitely have to watch the voltage.

Kai.

[helipaddy]

Not much good with the Lycoming, but if you have a liquid cooled motor, theres a new product out that uses the heat of the engine Liquid coolant

heres a link.
Its called thermoflash

http://www.ekmpowershop2.com/ekmps/shops/conairsports/thermoflash-heated-clolthing-369-c.asp

http://www.solocorse.co.uk/thermoflash.php

Expensive

[jcarleto]

I've been using the "layered" approach. I can't move at all after I get all the layers on and I have to turn the radio on before I put on the gloves and liners...and I may need to lengthen the safety belt if I have to add another layer for warmth...or if I over-indulge Christmas dinner. Spinning up the prop and sitting down is becoming quite a complex maneuver.

One observer at the airport noticed the problems I was having getting the seat belt fo fasten around the "blizzard-ware" pants and suggested I just fly low and forget the seat belt. He was convinced I could survive any fall below 500 feet with everything I had on.

I flew to RMG a few days ago in 36F weather. It is clear that I have reached the limits of the "layers" method. I had so much on, I had to turn the gyro to see to the left or right more than a few degrees. Fortunately, the GyRonimo is agile enough to accommodate, but it will be nice to have a winter ride with an electrical system. Perhaps all the R&D in this thread will be complete by that time and I'll just be able to buy the clear winners.

So, keep on testing! I am reading this thread with great interest!

*JC*

[Gyro_Kai]

Paddy,

this thermoflash turns you in something like a cyborg, being part of the engine cooling mechanism :). But a great idea, nevertheless.

Kai.

[ckurz7000]

I have a Gerbing jacket liner, pants and gloves powered by a stock Rotax 912 alternator. I don't have landing lights, strobes and other like gizmos. But my heated clothes, radio and transponder work nicely altogether.

When you turn on the Gerbing control unit, you can see the little control light flashing at different rates, pulsing electricity through the garments. So the load on the alternator is high when the pulse is on and zero when it's off. I think it would be much better to "multiplex" through each garment in turn. You wouldn't have the current spikes since only part of the load would be on at any one time. The price is a different wiring and control unit that's a bit more expensive...

-- Chris.

[barnstorm2]

Not much good with the Lycoming, but if you have a liquid cooled motor, theres a new product out that uses the heat of the engine Liquid coolant


That is a neat system.

I've been using the "layered" approach. I can't move at all after I get all the layers on and I have to turn the radio on before I put on the gloves and liners....... He was convinced I could survive any fall below 500 feet with everything I had on....

I am invisioning something like the "Christmas Story" kid:

http://www.redriderleglamps.com/images/products/randy_card.jpg

Paddy,

this thermoflash turns you in something like a cyborg, being part of the engine cooling mechanism :). But a great idea, nevertheless.
Kai.

Gyroborg! too funny!

I think it would be much better to "multiplex" through each garment in turn. You wouldn't have the current spikes since only part of the load would be on at any one time. The price is a different wiring and control unit that's a bit more expensive...
-- Chris.

Chirs,

I like this idea alot. Is a controller that "round robbins" throught the garments available for sale or are you talking about making one?

.

[barnstorm2]

Well I got an hour of flight in today!

Temp (surface) was 34.
Thanks to yesterday's rain all of the cool white ice is gone from the ponds and lakes. There is still some ice out but it is clear.

The most important thing that I learned today is that you need to secure the electric lines to the socks!

When putting the socks on and running the lines though my pants I found that the plugs of the socks detach easily from the harness.

To combat this I put a small piece of tape over the connector.

After pre-flight as I got into the gyro I felt the cord pop back out as I buckled in.

I was not about to undress to plug it in so I went on with the flight.

I am glad I did as it really drove home the difference between using the heated clothing and not.

By the time I got back on the ground the unheated foot was COLD and numb as a board. The heated foot was nice, warm and comfortable.

On my first run around the pattern I had on only the heated glove liners. This was NOT enough.

I landed and put on a pair of Military surplus gloves ($5) that are supposedly for pilots. They are light and allow good use of your finger tips for operating controls. However, when put over the glove liners become much less easy to use.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3208/3135627299_faa18ae960.jpg

I plan on using these gloves if I don't find anything better. They did work well and my hands were warm for the whole hour of flight. However, the gloves plus the glove liners were too bulky to operate the GPS, Radio and harnesses well.

I am going to start looking for a better glove to go over the liners.

Overall, I think the flight was a success and I am looking forward to making improvements and trying again.

I will post some photos in a new thread.


.

[barnstorm2]

I forgot to mention that my vest still has not arrived.

Judging from today I don't think I will need to wear it.

.http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3250/3135594073_6032bded33.jpg


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[barnstorm2]

Well, I put it all to use yesterday.

I did a 5 hour cross country to the PRA Chapter 34 Polar Bear Fly-In.

Everything worked well, with just a few minor hitches.

The new over gloves allowed good use of cockpit instruments and radios / GPS BUT they had some 'breather holes" in the tops of the first three fingers. After a while the heating elements could not keep up well. My fingers did get cold but not uncomfortably so. I just flew with my left hand so my right hand could warm up from time to time.

After a little over 2.5 hours of flight the 40 amp/hr battery was at 60% charge as indicated by my digital automatic charger. I plugged it in at the meeting and 30 minutes later the battery was ready for the return trip.

I had to use FULL POWER on the gloves and socks for the entire trip.

Ironically, my heated vest arrived in the mail TODAY. No problem though as I did not need it.

I will post photos of the trip in the flying photos section.

[snowbird1]

I have lots of experience in flying in cold weather. being up here in Michigan, i still try to fly a few hours every week. The biggest limitation is the grass strip I fly out of- if theres too much snow or too much muddy grass, I can't fly. I found nothing keeps my hands and feet warm except heated ones. I wear heated gloves and heated socks, full head sock with a neck wind block, sweats under jeans, and an artic cat snowmobile outfit (leg and jacket). I can fly for an hour in down to 28 degrees, anything less than that and I have to land and warm up for about 10 minutes. I have a rotax 618 and it provides plenty of power to run the socks/gloves and charge the battery. I don't use the temp controller- full on if the only way to stay warm enough. You have to be real careful with your engine tuning- the carbs need to be set richer in anything under 45 degrees as the EGT's run hotter the colder the air temps. The colder the air, the more dense it is and the more fuel required. I keep my jetting for just over 1100 degrees in cruise in cold weater. Being water cooled helps also because the water thermostat always keeps the engine temp above 140. I do get a little nervous flying under 32 since my carbs froze up one day when it was 27 out- although it was snowing that day. I does take me about 20 mins to get dressed up to fly, kindof a pain but I have no choice until next spring...

[Timchick]

I have lots of experience in flying in cold weather. being up here in Michigan, i still try to fly a few hours every week. The biggest limitation is the grass strip I fly out of- if theres too much snow or too much muddy grass, I can't fly. I found nothing keeps my hands and feet warm except heated ones. I wear heated gloves and heated socks, full head sock with a neck wind block, sweats under jeans, and an artic cat snowmobile outfit (leg and jacket). I can fly for an hour in down to 28 degrees, anything less than that and I have to land and warm up for about 10 minutes. I have a rotax 618 and it provides plenty of power to run the socks/gloves and charge the battery. I don't use the temp controller- full on if the only way to stay warm enough. You have to be real careful with your engine tuning- the carbs need to be set richer in anything under 45 degrees as the EGT's run hotter the colder the air temps. The colder the air, the more dense it is and the more fuel required. I keep my jetting for just over 1100 degrees in cruise in cold weater. Being water cooled helps also because the water thermostat always keeps the engine temp above 140. I do get a little nervous flying under 32 since my carbs froze up one day when it was 27 out- although it was snowing that day. I does take me about 20 mins to get dressed up to fly, kindof a pain but I have no choice until next spring...

You da man! :hail: I grew up in Maine and I like the idea of trying to fly my gyro on skiis in the snow someday. But then reality sinks in and I remember I've been living in the South for too long and doing things in the cold really sucks.

[barnstorm2]

I have a rotax 618 and it provides plenty of power to run the socks/gloves and charge the battery. ...
That is good to know. I assume you don't have an electric pre-rotator.

I don't use the temp controller- full on if the only way to stay warm enough. ...

I found that out on my trip too. I am hoping I did not waste the money on the controller. Perhaps as temps rise into the 40/50s it will be of some use.

You have to be real careful with your engine tuning- the carbs need to be set richer in anything under 45 degrees as the EGT's run hotter the colder the air temps. The colder the air, the more dense it is and the more fuel required. I keep my jetting for just over 1100 degrees in cruise in cold weater....

My TS has a mixture control and I kept it a little on the rich side. When I got to Greencastle I had some soot on my prop so I think I ran it rich enough. I wish I had EGTs.

Being water cooled helps also because the water thermostat always keeps the engine temp above 140. I do get a little nervous flying under 32 since my carbs froze up one day when it was 27 out- although it was snowing that day. I does take me about 20 mins to get dressed up to fly, kindof a pain but I have no choice until next spring...

I did my best to pre-heat my engine and give it nice long taxi's before and after flying so it would not have any cold shock.

I did not have to use my carb heat on the trip. The Rotax 912 on Connies' skyboy has had carb ice a few times. I have carb heat installed on it now. Since the 912 does not have a mixture control I wonder if it would be a good idea to run it with the carb heat on so the mixture is richer?

.

[automan1223]

A cycle supply catalog I shop from

http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/index.html

good folks, customer service.

J