Helicycle Hatchery [Archive] - Page 5

StanFoster

08-11-2009, 02:08 PM

Thanks guys.....Its coming together slowly. I cant complain now...I have everything but the turbine. I called the factory today to see how they are scheduled on balancing my rotorblades after I bond the doublers on and ship them back to Idaho. They need them in 4 weeks.:eek::eek:

So, I am buried with stairs....but will milk out some time and get them there. If I dont get in the next balancing run....it would be several more months. These other blades by the way are from kits sold a few years ago that are just getting them done.

Here are a few shots. I proudly put my PRA sticker in the cabin.

The rectangular plates are the material to cut out the 16 doubler plates that the blades need bonded to the root end. Very critical operation. Those aluminum blocks will be also bonded. The factory will mill them down to fit the blade grips on my rotorhead.

The last two pictures shows the rubber hose that fits down over the rotor mast. This softens "mast bumping"....God forbid if you get so careless! :eek: Mast bumping can occur during say a push over after a climb.....the helicopter gets low g's . The tail rotor can actually roll the helicopter to the right without the rotor following. So here we have a helicopter rolling to the right...but the main rotor is tilted to the left with the fuselage. If you give it left cyclic to correct the right roll.....that is not good. It will make the angle of the rotor with the mast even worse....and mast bumping can occur. This can tear your whole mast off and this is not good. This rubber hose will soften the blow if it is real light. Part of the pre-flight is to check this.

Stan

animal

08-11-2009, 02:45 PM

Looking good Stan, I am glad I don't have to cut those things out.

Man that is a nicely made rotor head.

I have been working on my helicopter more to day also. just got the new lexan for the windshield and still stripping it down to repaint. a lot of work, but will be worth it.

The funny part is once I get my frame repainted, putting it back together will be fun and probably go pretty fast.

Those blades look nice.

StanFoster

08-11-2009, 05:08 PM

Tim- It wont be hard at all to cut these out accurately. I have 4 patterns to cut out 4 each of. I will rough cut these out, double side tape the 4 that need to be cloned, and accurately sand these 4 together. This should minimize as much as possible any weight difference that would happen if each one were cut out individually. I just watched the cleaning process that I have to do to make sure the epoxy bonds correctly. This is an EXTREMELY important step of this chopper project! I am looking forward to starting on this. I will go out to my stairshop extra early and get this done in the next 2 weeks. They told me 4 weeks, so I am compomising and giving myself 2 weeks instead. Stan

All_In

08-11-2009, 06:02 PM

Very, very cool! But 4 weeks? Oh well, good things are worth waiting for.

StanFoster

08-11-2009, 06:24 PM

John- It doesnt matter even if its 4 months....just so I have the blades this winter.

I could have those blades bonded and back on the truck by this Friday if I had to. ....but I am just going to spread it out....main thing...just so I dont miss the next balancing session in 4 weeks.

Stan

Master Roda

08-11-2009, 07:13 PM

My wife called me at Mentone with the good news that my Helicycle rotorblades arrived! I would not let her sign fo them as I want to personally unpack them and examine the blades while the truck driver waits. I never will forget the surprise I received when I unpacked my Sportcopter blades for my SparrowHawk. The box they were shipped in had no marks of any kind on it, so I didnt check them till much later. I opened them up and they were meticulously packed in high density foam. My jaw about hit the floor when I noticed a crease about 6 inckes long about 2 feet from the end of the blade. I had no success getting anyone to cover this, simply because I could not prove I did not do it. Had I opened them when they were delivered I would have had no problem as I simply would have flatly rejected them. I learned a big lesson not to assume there is no damage to a product inside an undamaged container. Anyway, these blades will just have to wait till Monday for me to inspect them before I sign for them. Stan

Oh Stan,

You should have called. I can help you with these things. Even though you signed, the carrier is responsible. I don't ship damaged goods, so the carrier was at fault.

There have been cases where the box was opened to be inspected and damaged of course because of it. I really am disappointed that you didn't get a replacement set.

I am truly sorry if you didn't get reimbursed for this. Was I working for SC then?

Jon

Master Roda

08-11-2009, 07:28 PM

That extrusion looks alot like my 7" chord. Can you send me pics of it with a tape to get a better idea? I might be able to make a set of bonded blades for you (or any other guy) with a helicycle...just a thought.

StanFoster

08-12-2009, 02:04 AM

Jon- I will take some spsr measurements, closer pictures, and post them here tonight. I mentioned earlier that these blades were symetrical, well, that was at first glance. They most definately are asymetrical as one side has more camber. .........Jon, PM me your phone number as I want to talk you in private the SparrowHawk rotorblade incident. Or, you can call me at my stairshop #.... 217-379-2376 Stan

Master Roda

08-12-2009, 05:52 AM

Ok,

I kinda thought so, although pictures are deceiving.

I'll call you this afternoon.

StanFoster

08-12-2009, 04:53 PM

I cut the 16 doubler plates today. Each rotor blade will have 4 progressively larger doubler plates attached to the top and bottom. This requires 4 each of four patterns.

I glued the four patterns to the aluminum....and then used double sided tape to hold them together. The one picture where there is a large block ...its perfectly square...and so are two sides of each pattern. I just simple nestled each one in the squared off station so as to perfectly index them together with double sided tape.

With each group of four....I gang cut them out....and while they were all still locked together...I gang sanded them on my 12 inch disc sander. Each one is an exact clone of the pattern...

Before I separated the groups of 4....I draw filed the edges to get rid of any surface discrepencies....then I soaked them in acetone to take them apart.

Next I random orbit sanded them at 320 grit. I ran my finger around the edges and can not detect anything but a smooth flowing curve....all the curves transition to straight without being able to feel it.

Next comes a roller treatment to make these match the airfoil profile of the blades. The top four doublers will have to be bent more than the bottom four. Bottom line...I want these naturally laying on the airfoil and on top of each other as close as I can get.

Stan

All_In

08-12-2009, 04:56 PM

Oh buddy that looks like mirror image perfection!!
Way to go!!!

StanFoster

08-12-2009, 04:57 PM

Last shots. The blueprint shows how these go on. There is also 4 large aluminum blocks that get bonded as well. These are already factory milled out to fit the top and bottom cambers of the rotorblades.

Stan

animal

08-12-2009, 05:04 PM

Looks good Stan. you always do great work and make the hard look easy.

how thick is each plate? and what did you cut them out with?

StanFoster

08-12-2009, 05:08 PM

Jon- Nice talking to you on the phone today. You are a master at building rotors.....hey...Master Roda! I am glad our conversation cleared up a big mystery in my mind about my other rotorblades. You filled in the missing piece to the puzzle that has had me perplexed for over 3 years now.

Here are some pictures of my Helicycle rotorblades. They measure 7.25 inches wide...have a 0.875 height.....and the spar is 2.5 inches deep...rabbeted out to receive the 0.050 skins. You can see they are asymetrical.

I see no twist in them.

Stan

StanFoster

08-12-2009, 05:11 PM

Tim- Each doubler is 0.025 6061 aluminum. I cut them out with a sabre saw with a metal cutting blade. Sandwiching them with 1/4 luan plywood is the secret to cutting them out. I just gang cut them four at a time. I wante each one to weigh the same....and I figure if they are the same exact profile....then thats the best I can do.

Stan

ylf

08-12-2009, 06:50 PM

Stan, you sure make it look easy.

Mike

Master Roda

08-12-2009, 07:06 PM

Stan,

Thank you for taking the time to talk to me. I think I will be able to reproduce those blades in our fashion. All I have to do is convince Jim to allow me too :)

Good luck with bonding!!

All_In

08-12-2009, 07:40 PM

Stan, you sure make it look easy.

MikeYaw Mon!!
But thank God they have curves because he's told us time and time again he can't make anything straight?:wave:

He makes everything he does look easy!

StanFoster

08-13-2009, 04:35 PM

I used an outfeed roller as my tool of choice to conform these doublers so they would fit nice to the airfoil. There is a stack of four on the top and bottom of each blade...a total of 16 to prepare. It took me awhile to get the hang of forming the aluminum. I also used a block of wood with a saw kerf to give the leading edge ever so slight corrections....then I used my roller on a stand to work the metal into the proper but changing curve...like an airfoil has!

The build video shows using epoxy.... but then sanding off all the epoxy that gets smeared all over. I am not going to do that...and a little time blue taping will make my stairstep doublers have minimal work. I will be glueing up the top and bottom and one time...bolts will be going through those aluminum blocks...plus a lot of clamps and clamping cauls will be used.

I am very satisfied with the fit of these doublers..and they wont need hardly any pressure to make them tight.

I will scotchbright them next....acetone...and then some special activator will be applied before the epoxy is spread on.

This is just another glueup now...

Stan

StanFoster

08-13-2009, 04:40 PM

Heres the last pictures. The bottom half of the rotorblade was easier to fit the plates to as the camber is less.

After the doublers were all stacked exactly as desired....I clamped and drilled through the factory spar holes...and now they are indexed. I then blue taped them off....and disassembled them. I will scotchbrite them lightly one more time...then use acetone on them till the rags are clean. A special activator will be applied to all glued faces....the epoxy mixed and applied....then one rotorblade will have its doublers all installed.

Stan

animal

08-13-2009, 04:48 PM

Looks good Stan. will the blades be painted or left bare?

you always do such nice work, that is going to be a helicopter you can enjoy for along time.

StanFoster

08-13-2009, 05:09 PM

Tim- I originally was going to paint these ....but after a lot of thought and studying others that have painted.....it isnt worth looking at painted blades slowly having the paint eroded off....

When I get them back....I am going to go anal on them.....and polish them to a mirror finish.... There was a good article in KitPlanes about how once a fine finish is on....its just a routine touch up. I wont have near the problem with the finish as it is in a heated and airconditioned hanger...

Stan

Laurent1702

08-14-2009, 08:49 AM

Dear Stan,

As a futur Helicycle builder I would like to thank you a million times for your effort and efficiency in communicating every aspect of your amzing work you're doing on your helicopter!

I must say that it is because of YOU ONLY that I took the decision to buy this helicopter, as the very few information provided by Eagle R&D were not sufficient to me to take a clear decision, based on technical basis.

Once more thank you very much for what you've done and are doing throught your building process.

Best regards

Laurent VELATI

All_In

08-14-2009, 08:58 AM

Great news Laurent!
We would love to have another helicycle building tread!

animal

08-14-2009, 09:02 AM

Laurent1702

08-14-2009, 10:26 AM

Animal, All In

Thanks for your support!

Doing a better reporting job than what Stan has done will be very very difficult I guess, if not impossible!

Once more thanks to him for his incredible implication and dedication to the others, it's just amazing to see such persons in our very selfish 21st century!

My first task now is a long, long long waiting until I'll receive my first shipment...

Laurent

StanFoster

08-14-2009, 03:52 PM

Laurent- You wont be disappointed with your kit. Just relax, chill out while you are waiting for your shipments. I signed the contract knowing this was the terms...so I am not complaining. It is a fun build.

Stan

choppergabor

08-14-2009, 04:01 PM

Laurent welcome and good luck with your project. Oh yeah and if no one has mentioned it yet.....WE DO LOVE PICTURES :)
Cheers

StanFoster

08-14-2009, 04:06 PM

I bonded the doublers to both sides of one rotorblade. I wont try eating a whole elephant again! They came out nice...but man was I busy....I had 40 minutes working time.....and I finished in time...but the next blade will be done one side at a time.

The first picture is my new "quick" way of shaping the doublers. The trick is automatic transmission creep. Its hard to fine tune the curvature. Please use a standard brick....I calculated it to be the right thickness with my size of tires!

Seriously....the others are the glue up process. I happen to have plenty of clamps...and I used plenty.

The last pictures are the doubler plates being loosely fit to the next rotorblade. I will bond these next week...and have the rotorblades back on the truck to Idaho.

Stan

All_In

08-14-2009, 04:13 PM

Have you got enough clamps there buddy?

Man you told me over the phone, how many clamps you were using. But it looks a lot funnier seeing it!

Gee's only you would start out by doing both sides at once! Not enough of a challenge for you or what?

PS:
I don't even know how you got all those clamps off, then peal the tape off and put them all back on to dry in time?

StanFoster

08-14-2009, 04:19 PM

John- Even though they came out nice....hindsight shows my eagerness to go at this like a 24 foot curved handrail glueup. I rehearsed the procedure...had my top and bottom doubler plates separated and CLEARLY marked.....this should be a piece of cake. What I didnt practice in my rehearsal glueup was how slippery those clampling cauls and clamps get with epoxy all over. I was busier than a one eyed cat watching 6 mice....

I soon got it under control.....but next glue up will be more relaxing.

Stan

animal

08-14-2009, 07:37 PM

man ain't ya glad you do wood work for a living, most people would not have near that many clamps.

I bet that was a challenge.

Laurent1702

08-15-2009, 01:59 AM

Stan,

Once more you've done an amazing work in very short time, incredible.

May I dare to suggest another way how to proceed to bond and clamp the doublers on the blades?

Using vacuum allows having an incredible amount of pressure; with the unbeatable advantage that this pressure is equally dispatched over the whole surface onto where it is applied.

But wait, this can be used ONLY if the blade profile is NOT hollow inside, if it is, an insert made of wood MUST be placed inside in order to avoid to get your blade smashed by the vacuum.

All you need is the following:
- A strong plastic sheet
- Windows mastic
- An old refrigerator compressor
- A vacuum manometer to make sure there is no leak
- An old cotton or synthetic linen, or better if you have, some film allowing breathing and demolding.
- A silicon spray

All this cost almost nothing!

How to proceed?
- Just apply the mastic around the blade (up and down)
- Place your doublers on the blade
- While the doublers are in place, place the linen over the doublers (the linen MUST be impregnated with silicon in order to avoid it to be glued on the blade by the epoxy coming out of the doublers)
- Wrap the all with the strong plastic sheet
- Close it hermetically with mastic or by soldering it
- Apply the vacuum pump hose to the plastic bag
- Start the engine, and that's it.

Please not that it is the "cheap and amateur" way how to proceed with vacuum, without any vacuum regulator, compressor vacuum switch, breather, film unmolding films, but it works perfectly fine for time to time works.

I am working in the helicopter engineering field since over than 10 years, working on the devellopment of mechanical parts, using NC machines, electronics and composites, so I'm somewhat familiar with these techniques'… ;-)

I'm trying to post a photo of what I'm explaining, we'll see if it works....

The main advantage in comparison with the clamps, is the uniformity of the pressure applied on the surfaces.

I hope this could help for the next one…

Have a nice day

Oups, something again, sorry for my approximative English....

Laurent

D:\Pp_vid_sac_1.jpg

Laurent1702

08-15-2009, 02:11 AM

Choppergabor,

Thanks for the welcome message.

At the present time the lonely pictures I could post are from the mountains and the lake surrounding my place here in Switzerland in Geneva, but I think that it is not the right forum for this.

But for sure I'll try to keep a construction log as Stan, I said that I'll try...

Laurent

StanFoster

08-15-2009, 03:02 AM

Laurnent- I cant argue against vacuum bagging. If my stair stringers werent so long..I would be doint them that way.

There is however a very simple vacuum creating device. You just use a your shop air compressor and hook it up to a small venturi. This venturi creates unbelievable amount of suction...almost 14 pounds a square inch...which of course is the atmospheric presssure.

But anyway.....I am still old school both in my stairbuilding and helicopter building. Next life I will get with the program!:yo:

I will be looking forward to your build...and please study all my methods....as there are some you will want to try....and others that there are just plain better and easier ways.

One thing I can say is that it is a very educational and rewarding project.

I plan on this helicopter being the first machine that I accumulate more hours on in the air than building it.

Stan

StanFoster

08-15-2009, 01:30 PM

I am very happy with the doublers on my first rotorblade. The last 3 pictures are the doublers being fit for curvature and they will be bonded sometime tomorrow. I am only doing one side this time.

When I get the blades back from Idaho....they will get sanded down progressively to a very fine grit...then power buffed to a mirror finish. I understand that once its a mirror finish, and the correct stuff is on...its not that much work keeping them that way. It will give me a good excuse as I am polishing them to be looking them over real close as an ongoing inspection.

Stan

Vance

08-15-2009, 01:36 PM

That is very nicely done Stan.

No glue showing, no rough edges and a perfect fit.

It looks like the blade of a certified helicopter.

Thank you for sharing, Vance

Chuck Roberg

08-15-2009, 01:39 PM

Wow and Wow. Oh and by the way. Did I say WOW.

Like those blades.

StanFoster

08-15-2009, 01:48 PM

Vance and Chuck...Thanks. I am satisfied that I did them properly and that they will serve the purpose of spreading the root loads out. Its interesting to study the curves and they just look like a good design by B.J.

Vance- There is still a little glue that I havent cleaned up yet. Those mothers are a chore....but I loved every minute of it.

Stan

ylf

08-15-2009, 09:06 PM

Stan,

Any chance of using a higher resolution setting on your camera? All these great pictures would be even better if they were a little bigger to show the fine detail in your work.

Thanks for letting us tag along on your adventure,
Mike

StanFoster

08-16-2009, 04:16 AM

ylf- 150K is the max I can upload here. Others are loading much higher resolution pictures...but I have never been able to figure out how they do it. I just load what is fast and simple....sorry.

Stan

ylf

08-16-2009, 10:05 AM

No problem Stan, I figured there must be a reason but hadn't seen it mentioned in the thread.

Mike

StanFoster

08-16-2009, 02:15 PM

I bonded one side of the 2nd rotorblade today. I tried the factories recommended way of NOT putting the blue tape on against my gut feelings.

If you look back a few posts....I bonded the first blade both top and bottom sets at the same time...but had blue taped it.

Todays glueup turned out very nice....but.....I was aware of now having my bare wood clamping cauls sitting on epoxied aluminum.....not good if say I left it overnight. Those wooden cauls would have been a nightmare to remove. After four hours I removed the clamps and took a super sharp chisel....I mean SUPER sharp shave your face sharp...and carefully peeled the epoxy out of the stepped area between the doublers. Had I waited till tomorrow when that epoxy is rock hard....it would have taken HOURS to make it look proper.

I have one more glueup and it will be blue taped off. Two big reasons for blue tape.....MUCH less cleanup....and most important....the clamping cauls though sitting in epoxy squeeze out will pop loose from the aluminum because the blue tape bond isnt that tough.

StanFoster

08-18-2009, 06:26 PM

I am ready to do the last bonding on my rotorblades in the morning. I taped off this one as it is far easier to cleanup,,,and pop the wooden clamping cauls off.

It will just be a matter of cleaning them up...them shipping them back to Idaho. There they will have the blocks milled down parallel and the exact thickness to fit my blade grips.

Stan

Friendly

08-18-2009, 07:42 PM

Stan,
I read back through some of the post but did not see which epoxy you are using. Is it just for aluminum? Does it have to be heat cured?

Chopper Reid

08-18-2009, 08:22 PM

A silly question for you Stan, I was wondering why this isnt done at the factory seeing you have to send the blades back ??

StanFoster

08-19-2009, 02:01 AM

Mark- I dont know the specifics on the epoxy except it glues my samples very strong. There was no heat requirements given....

Brian- Thats just the way it the system is setup.....we do the blade doublers...and ship them back. Maybe they get kickbacks from the shipping company?? HA

It was interesting doing it anyway.

Stan

Laurent1702

08-19-2009, 05:54 AM

From my point of view, leaving the customer bonding the blades doublers is a way to transfer the liability to the customer's side.

The company is then totally out of liability in case of a blade failure...and consequences.

Just an idea...

Laurent

Passin' Thru

08-19-2009, 06:37 AM

Stan, (and all) it may have to do with compliance with the 51% EAB rule?
.

StanFoster

08-19-2009, 09:20 AM

Laurent- I am sure the liability of those rotorblades rests on my work with those doublers. Thats fine with me as I feel they are bonded correctly. Its not like I am never going to inspect them visually, or audibly with a nickel. If they fail, you wont hear me whine about it! ................Passin thru-.........I suppose it has something to do with the 51% rule.....Stan

Laurent1702

08-19-2009, 10:20 AM

Stan, Passin,

Yes, may be that the 51% rule has something to see with this strategy, but for the foreigners customers it is really not a cheap one...as we have to pay the crate shipment twice!

In the light of what it is expected to be built by the customer, the 51% rule should be reached by leaving the customer building other items.

This is way I thought that it could have something to see with liability. :confused:

Of course these blades will require continuous checks...as ALL other blades, certified or not.

Laurent

StanFoster

08-19-2009, 12:07 PM

Laurant- I just got off the phone with Caroline Schramm, and she said that since shipping costs are so high, for $895.00, Eagle R&D will make and install your doublers on your rotorblades before they ship them to you. This offer is not available to anyone in the U.S. I think that is a good deal, as I just checked my logbook and my doublers took 29 hours. Stan

StanFoster

08-19-2009, 01:39 PM

I finished bonding all 16 doubler plates today. The first shot is right after I sandwiched the four epoxied doublers together and tightened up the two 1/4 inch bolts. I found that it is easier to start at the top of the steps...clamp and squeeze the glue as you go down. This allows easier access to the glue squeeze out.

These doublers are all scotchbrited and they eventually will get sanded down to very fine ....then power buffed.

Working on these were a lot of fun...a little stress once the glue is mixed..

Stan

Laurent1702

08-20-2009, 02:19 AM

Stan,

Thanks a lot for the information about the blades doublers bonding work that can be completed from the factory for the foreign customers!

That's a very good news, for real, because 890USD is far less than the double shipping costs…this without taking in account the labor time it saves!

Congratulation for the work accomplished on your blades, you've done it in a very short while. Are they now ready for their return to the factory?

Have a nice day.

Laurent

animal

08-20-2009, 04:21 AM

looks Great Stan, sure glad it was not me trying to do those,I am sure I would have a big mess.

StanFoster

08-20-2009, 09:47 AM

Laurent- Glad that was good news for you having your doublers boned on. My blades are readt to be shipped to Idaho for final machining. I still have 2 weeks to do some other stuff to them, so I will be drilling holes for the draglinks, fitting the root and end plugs. I will have them on the truck next week sometime........ When did Eagle R&D say the first shipment would be? I would guess at least spring of 2010. Stan

Laurent1702

08-21-2009, 06:45 AM

Stan,

Congratulation for having accomplished this work that quickly!
You mentioned that you've did it in about 29 hours… pretty fast!

I received the folder containing the contract this morning, then I returned to Eagle R&D two full pages of technical questions I need to provide my authorities with… to accept the Helicycle in Switzerland.

I have to say that I'm a little bit afraid about the lack of technical information disclosed about the Helicycle… even the main rotor diameter is not mentioned, or the overall dimensions…
From the outside it looks weird.

Carolyn told me that I can expect the first shipment in December-January, which is good for me.
What would be even better for me it would to receive the blades at the same time, fitted into the frame's crate, this to save the shipping costs of one crate…

I'll let you know when the technical forms will be completed.

Good luck for the remaining work on the blades.

Laurent

StanFoster

08-21-2009, 03:13 PM

Laurent- Rest assured they will give you all the technical information you want, they are not hiding anything. When you buy a Helicycle...they will allow you on the builders site....and there are tens of thousands of posts...and pictures to search.

I will be looking forward to the start of your build as I enter the final building on my machine. Just prepare yourself for slight delays in your shipments. You will find its worth the wait because they dont skimp on quality of their parts or their workmanship.

Stan

gyro

08-21-2009, 06:56 PM

Stan, what type of Epoxy was that? somthing special for aluminum?

I assume there is no chance that once the blades are in the grips that the sag will not pop the bond.

StanFoster

08-22-2009, 04:09 AM

gyro- I used what they sent....and followed the directions religously. They havent had any problems with the builders doing the bonding...and there are several ships flying with hundreds of hours on them. The highest one is over 500 hours now.

Its something that will be checked all the time...I feel a bonding failure will not end up in a catastrophic failure until many flying hours of careless disregard to a known doubler that had its bond popped.

I took this operation extra serious....and I dont know at this time what I could have done to made them any stronger. I am going to have a mirror finish on these blades...and this will keep me looking closely as I routinely polish the blades.

Stan

gyro

08-22-2009, 04:48 AM

Stan, your bonding job looks superb! So good they look as if they were molded that way. that is was curious what brand, type of epoxy they sent you??? I know the helicycle is time tested and the effort you put into each and every part of the build is problebly 110% better than most builds.
I was just curious if the factory pointed out about the epoxy mix (ratio) how critical this is or the bonds will give way if not done right.
I know how strong laminated wood is and the strength is in the glue but the best lament wood products are those that have been put under some pressure while the glue is drying.
I saw your pics of the clamps so no doubt you got the wompus put on it.

This part of your build intrigues me as I was thinking about bonding some aluminum on a project I’m working on….any tips that factory may have give you here and if possible the brand of epoxy would be helpful.

StanFoster

08-22-2009, 03:41 PM

gyro- I did have a lot of clamps...but they were not applying a lot of pressure. Just nice even pressure over the wooded clamping cauls. I fee the secret is to getting the curvature of the doublers as close as practical so they need very little clamping pressure to compress all of them to contact.

The mix ratio was 2 parts B to one part A. I took a tablespoon measuring cup....and carefully measured out 8 tablespoons of B...then measured out 4 tablespoons of A, and then thoroughly mixed them. I had 40 minutes working time. I have test samples and it that is some tough glue.

If I remember...I will ask what the epoxy actually is and relay it to you.

StanFoster

09-01-2009, 02:31 PM

I shipped my rotorblades back to Idaho today. Not earth shattering news, but still part of the chronological progression of getting this build accomplished. The factory does 7 or 8 sets of blades at a time....and I wanted to be in this next group. Now that these blades are off my mind...I am about to reboot and go back to my rotorhead linkage work, flare some 1/4 aluminum pipe for the transmission oil lines....and other msc. stuff. Once thats out of the way.....the wiring is next. I am still accumulating ideas for how I want to go wire everything.

Stan

Monte55

09-02-2009, 12:22 PM

Stan........I have a few questions. How much does each rotor weigh?
In previous pics it looks like only one bolt or pin attatches the rotor to the head mount. Is this correct and what size is the bolt or pin?
Is the rotor allowed to move in a "lead" "lag" motion in relation to the mount?
I see two small holes on the root end of the rotor. Are they only for building registration? Any info will be appreciated. BTW....your project is absolutely
beautiful. I have been following your build and commend you on your craftsmanship and documentation throughout. Thanks.
Nick

Oh yeah..........nice staircases. I mean GREAT!!!!

Monte55

09-02-2009, 12:28 PM

StanFoster

09-02-2009, 12:51 PM

Nick- Thanks! I do not know the weight of the blades....they also get tip weights later. There is no lead/lag hinge. There are two bolts on the root end that will be drilled out at the factory.....what size I dont know at this time. I have been extremely impressed with the workmanship supplied by the factory....and this keeps me on my toes trying to do nice work that these nice components deserve. In hindsight, having the 4 shipments spread out has done me a favor. I have had my stairwork keep priority in my shop, and I have had the much needed time to think things through.....oh, and get my helicopter training. Stan

Monte55

09-02-2009, 01:23 PM

Stan.....the reason I asked is that I only see one hole on each rotor mount on the head. I take it they will not bore the rotor mount head again.

StanFoster

09-03-2009, 03:07 PM

I had a little time to break away and install my two nav lights. I have a clear strobe...but havent decided where to put it for certain, as I may buy another one. These lights are from Bear Perkins and I really like them.

The one picture is a photo gallery I am starting on one of my hanger walls. Eventually I am going to blow up some flying Helicycle pictutes and hang them as well.

I have been too buried in my shop to do anything except get those rotorblades done and shipped to Idaho. I am just pacing myself a

Stan

All_In

09-03-2009, 10:22 PM

There LED's so they should last just about forever.
Looks like Christmas in September to me and your various gyroplane pictures really adds to the anbieounce of the Turbin-ator's lair!

StanFoster

09-04-2009, 03:18 AM

Rex and Kim ----aka Freebird. and freebirds wife..... I am now making the final decisions on the label names I am going to have you burn onto my instrument panel. Here are a couple of pictures of the lower dash plate I will be sending you two.....At Mentone I asked you how it would look lasering through the burgundy paint. You mentioned two ways....and could you restate those here again? If I remember correctly....you said you could mask it off....burn it...then blacken the letters? or just burn it without masking?

Once I have it finalized...I will send it off to you for your special touch. I am going to have you burn N360SF near the top as well.....I just am making sure the electronic tach doesnt interfere. I would like you to do just a few small scrolls to liven it up as well. I cant wait to see your touch and it will be in a lot of future flying pictures.

I of course will be glad to pay for your time to make up a few samples....before the real one is burned.:eek:

I have a label sheet that covers all the switch names....but it reminds me of "scrapbooking" ....you know...the labels are sitting there 1. ....you can see the outine of where I cut them out...and 2. if they arent perfectly centered...and level....it looks cheezy. I would rather do without labels until they are done like you can do them.

Thanks...and I will be looking forward to seeing your work adding a little class to my project!

Stan

choppergabor

09-04-2009, 03:31 AM

Wow good looking machine Stan. Coming together really nicely. When do you think you are going to get the blades back from Idaho? I do like the lights I assume they are feather weight too. And not getting too hot either. I hate to change the ones Schweizer uses. Looking good Stan I can't wait to see you your first pick up and set down in that baby :)

freebird

09-04-2009, 04:20 AM

freebirdswife

09-04-2009, 05:02 AM

Friendly

09-04-2009, 05:02 AM

Looking awesome Stan! You already have so much class in your build it is almost intimidating. I am at work, but will get Kim to PM you are give you a call.

It is going to be fun.

Talk to you soon,

Rex

Sears Department stores is famous for a line of tools that gave the average homeower what he needed to pursue his skills as a craftsman. I am amazed at things that people build then there are those people who spend so much attention to the tiny details that it leaves people in awe and respect. When I see their work, I say to myself, this is a Master Craftsman. I think Stan falls into that catogory.

StanFoster

09-04-2009, 02:45 PM

Thanks for the kind comments....

Kim... I have a belly plate that is painted burgundy. I will let you experiment on that....as its clear under the ship. I will have you do a few words with one blackened...then I can decide which I like best.

StanFoster

09-04-2009, 02:59 PM

I took the Helicycle outside for some fresh air today. Actually I opened the petcock and drained all the water out of the fuel tanks. I am starting to think about catching up on msc. stuff....before I get into the wiring.

The last two shots are the fuel pump...and the upgrade I decided to do...go from 1/4 inch to 5/16 fittings. The 1/4 inch has been working out fine...but I want a little more area.

Stan

StanFoster

09-04-2009, 03:45 PM

One of the advantages of running a stairshop...I have a lot of glueups, and instead of watching the glue dry...I move to the next room and tinker with the chopper.

I have had a little uncertainty of my hood bearing being within tolerances specified. These are that this bearing holder is within 0.005 of an inch of being square with the rotorshaft.

If you dig back in this thread...you will see where I used a collar supplied to check this. This collar is slid down the rotor driveshaft...tightened up with an allen screw...then a feeler gauge determines if the hood bearing needs brash shims place anywheres to get it within 0.005 of an inch. I did this...but I noticed a very slight movement of this gauge collar when the set screw was tightened.....not much at all...but say a thickness of a flys wing.

I usually dont let something like this go...but I reasoned that it surely wouldnt be that much error. Why I didnt stop and ABSOLUTELY know for certain....you tell me. I had a quirk that day in my logic circuits.:wacko: Anyway, I left with thinking my hood bearing was only 0.003 inches off...2well within tolerances.

I was talking to Doug Schwochert who will be doing my check out...and he mentioned to make sure this hood bearing is within tolerances...or it would make extra time on the checkout. I had already installed the swashplate...and verifying that my hood bearing was in tolerance...or if it wasnt...get it into tolerance....was all of a sudden #1 priority today.

I came up with the idea of simply putting a hoseclamp around the rotordriveshaft.......tightening the clamp until its exterior housing was spaced to one of my number drills. Number drills are very accurately made...and the midrange are typically 0.002 to 0.003 of an inch difference in size between the numbers. I used a #23 drill which measures 0.154 inches. I could tell that my bearing hood was very close as it was hard to find the tightest spot on a 360 degree turn....but I found it. I spaced the clamp with this drill bit...then took the next size larger bit....a #22 which measures 0.002 inches larger at 0.157 inches. I slowly rotated my rotor driveshaft 360 degrees....and was delighted to find that the widest gap was 180 degrees across....and the first drill bit was just a smidgin loose...I mean ....you could hardly see any light....and I had to push the next size bigger drill bit through. This proved to me without a doubt that my hood bearing is less than 0.002 of an inch out of square.....and this is much closer tolerances than the 0.005 that they want. I love days like this!

If you look back in this thread....you will see where I milled the hood bearing holder on my table saw....so as to not have an unsightly stack of washers under one end like I have seen. I called it my poor mans lathe. I call this my poor mans dial indicator.

The hardest part was verifying the very small numbers on the shanks of these bits. The last picture are 3 bits I was planning on using ...the last bit was 0.005 larger than the first one...but I did not have to use it! Had it been off 0.005 of an inch...I would have messed with it to try to get it within 0.003 or 0.004 of an inche. But.....less than 0.002 of an inch??? I aint touchin it!

Stan

animal

09-04-2009, 06:34 PM

Dang it Stan,every time I look at that nice shiny epoxyed floor, it makes me want to move everything out of my shop and epoxy mine.

sadly I have way to much stuff filling my shop to make that very feasible. but your floor sure dose look nice.

it's looking good Stan. I still think someday it would be cool to get a pic of your helicycle parked beside my Commuter jr.

animal

09-04-2009, 06:35 PM

I took the Helicycle outside for some fresh air today.

Stan yep, once in awhile we do have to take them out in the sunshine. I hope to have mine to the point of rolling it back out for some new photos soon.

All_In

09-04-2009, 11:04 PM

Very ingenious solution!

Must be nice to have your own helicopter sitting out in front of your shop! Very cool!

StanFoster

09-06-2009, 03:04 PM

Now that I know my hood bearing is well within tolerances....its time to start working above it. First order of business is getting the upper swashplates yokes for the pitch links...directly underneath the pitchhorns for the rotorhead.

I set up my laser dead center down the rotor driveshaft...and centered on the tail. I then tightened the two locking collars down securely. One is for redundancy....you wouldnt want to lose this attachment!

Stan

StanFoster

09-07-2009, 05:45 PM

I am running the fuel lines to the fuel pump...shut off valve. I decided to go to the next size fuel line...and I changed out the fittings to accomodate this change. I am not aware of any fuel starvation problems..but this thing is fuel thirsty...and might as well feed it what it wants.

The first two shots are the cyclic being run through its range...checking to see the brass Tee to the right is free and clear....and it was.

The last photos are the inside of the rotorshaft getting swabbed with corrosion proofing. After that....I epoxied a wooden plug to seal it off. I had a tapered baluster that I cut to where it was nice and tight...then tapped it down with some epoxy on the inside of the shaft.

Stan

karlbamforth

09-07-2009, 06:53 PM

Is that bit of control linkage in the second pic corroded Stan ?

Maybe it just looks that way on my cheap monitor.

StanFoster

09-07-2009, 07:16 PM

Karl- Good eye. Its just some very minor surface rust that I never messed with yet. I plan on just cleaning it up, and put some rust preventative on it. Stan

StanFoster

09-08-2009, 03:19 PM

I flared some aluminum tubing and ran a line from the bottom of my transmission to the oil filter cap. The transmission was filled with oil...and it looks like it pumping oil nicely.

I epoxied on a hose to the rotor driveshaft that will serve as a mast bump.

This all had to be done before the rotorhead was reinstalled. The blade grips are at the factory with my blades...and thats why the internals are plastic wrapped.

The pitch rods were roughly installed...and now the rotohead is controllable from the cyclic and collective. I have to set these yet to specs.....which is a negative 1.5 degrees blade pitch when the swashplate is leverl and the collective full down.

I am continually amazed at the extremely tight tolerances all the machining has been. Those rod ends take a while to get perfectly square before they slip in the yokes that hold them.

The main rotor pin has double redundancy for coming out. First there will be washers and bolts that alone would hold this pin it. It also has snap rings. If that isnt enough.....at the center of the rotorshaft is collar that has a lockdown bolt that will keep the pin centered.

I just keep plugging away about 2 hours a day on it. I will get the rotorhead all adjusted to specs next....then will take a little breather on this.

Stan

StanFoster

09-13-2009, 05:39 AM

I have known that the Solar T62 turbine is a workhorse...very dependable. This has been verified by many conversations with Helicycle pilots that depend on them.

However...that engine may as well been a nuclear reactor for as much as I knew about one.....but that is changing. I ordered some excellent maintenance and overhaul manuals for the T-62-32 turbine. I cant hardly put the manuals down they are so interesting.

The more I read about the interior workings of this engine...the more I am amazed at the simplicity of it.

I have been going over and over the start up sequence, following the diagrams.....looking at pictures of various parts....then every once in a while.....I get a big "ah ha " moment. Everyone of these new understandings just is making me adore that engine. It makes it all so clear what I have been told that it is the supporting systems.....ie....fuel delivery, electrical.....that is most important to keep this beast spinning happily at 62000 rpm.

I have removed some of the cloak of mystery that has been hanging over my understanding of this engine.....but the more I read.....the more inspired I am becoming of flying this thing.

Hindsight is so clear now....I needed this s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d out build period just to absorb this stuff. I realize now had say all the parts been dropped off in one shipment like the SparrowHawk, I would have been flying early this year.....but with a machine that would not have had as many good changes that I have learned from those with experience.

Sure....there will be stuff I havent done yet ....that someday I will say...."hey, I should have done it this way". I feel I have reduced the amount I will be saying that by having more time to think about building this helicopter thant actually building it.

Just last week I learned several things about making the fuel delivery system even more dependable than what is protocol. I am redoing a few fittings...changing my fuel pump.....installing a gascolator.....extra nice filter system....etc.

I have enjoyed this build like no other....and once my turbine arrives at the end of the year.....it will go fast after that.

I havent the slightest doubt that I am going to be joining the many other Helicycle flyers that are accumulating hundreds of hours on this chopper. You all know how I flew the heck out of my gyros.....I flew them on a whim whenever I had a "mission" I have lots of new "missions" to accomplish.....and there will be a lot of landings I have in mind in places I could only fly over. This may not excite to many....but just thinking about flying in and out of my shop.....landing at my home.....and landing everywhere I have permission.........just makes this all worth it. Ok....off my soap box.....and I actually am holding back what I really am feeling.

Stan

Silentman

09-13-2009, 10:35 AM

Hey Mike! I completed my 66 Mustang and am on the way to a car show with my son. This was a total off the frame rebuild. We (my son and I) even reapolstered the seats and completely redid the interior, exchanged the 6 cylinder for a HP 302 and switched out the axils from 4 to 5 lug. This was a major rebuild that took us 5 years but it's all done now. What a car!!! Good luck with yours!!!

StanFoster

09-13-2009, 10:52 AM

Silentman- Nice car....but kindly drive it out of this thread and park it in the off topic garage....unless it has a rotor that goes on it. Thanks Stan

choppergabor

09-13-2009, 01:43 PM

I have known that the Solar T62 turbine is a workhorse...very dependable. This has been verified by many conversations with Helicycle pilots that depend on them.

However...that engine may as well been a nuclear reactor for as much as I knew about one.....
Stan

You'll love the T62. Sweet little turbine :) And pretty dependable too which is no little thing when it comes to hauling your heli and you along. Simplicity is the main reason turbines became very popular. Oh and the weight to HP ration is unbeatable. Did you hear the R66 (The goat) is going turbine too? Apparently trying to break into the short distance offshore market to replace the ancient 206 series. Good ole Frank is funny.... Anyways. T62 is a sweet one. You'll love that thing. :)

StanFoster

09-14-2009, 03:44 PM

I just fabricated these triangular brackets and the slotted bar for the collective friction. It works real nice...as I can slowly crank on how much drag I need on the collective.

Stan

animal

09-14-2009, 05:29 PM

very nice Stan. where did you get the knob from for it?

All_In

09-15-2009, 09:19 AM

Looking good buddy!
I didn't realize there were so many small jobs still left to do.

StanFoster

09-15-2009, 03:31 PM

Tim- The knurled knob was supplied. I had to braze on a nut on one of the tiriangular brackets. They supply a rectangle of aluminum...and you just remove what is not a collective friction bracket!

John- Lots of interesting assignments building this ship. They say the amount you appreciate something is proportional to how much effort you have in it.

I am organizing my next run at this chopper. I will send off my instrument panel to Rex to have him laser engrave the switch labels on it next week. Meanwhile my harness/seatbelts are coming...gascolator....fuel filter and upgraded pump.

I have been seeking advice about having the Main fuel shutoff changed from power keeping it on....to power keeping it off. Its one thing to have an electrical glitch shut the turbine down on the ground running a generator....and another while you are flying. I am making it fail safe...plus it will still have overspeed protection....and can still be shut down electrically as well as by shutting the manual fule valve off.

Stan

Stan

choppergabor

09-15-2009, 04:40 PM

Hey Stan. I see you went with the knob friction instead of the lever kind. Either way the pressure of the friction should not be more than 8 pounds. That allows you to over ride it in case of emergency. (I hope you'll never have one my friend) The collective shouldn't pop up anyways. How do you balance the pressure? Do you have to use washers to adjust the pitch pressure? I ahve never seen a helicycle collective arrangement.
Cheers.

StanFoster

09-15-2009, 05:49 PM

Gabor- The collective is balanced by springs underneath the floorpan. The geometry of the collective is such that at full down to the first 1/3 up....the collective movement adds much less pitch to the blades than the middle 3rd.....then the last third really adds the degrees when needed.

More finesse when you need it at lift off with a geared down action.....and more punch the last 3rd when you need it to grab a lot of air fast.

I will take my inclination gauge sometime and see how many degrees each 3rd of collective travel are introduced to the rotorblades.

B.J. knew what he was doing on this ship.

Stan

StanFoster

09-16-2009, 05:30 PM

I drew an arc that represented the end of the cyclic handle. I divided this into 3rds...and then measured the pitch change to the rotorblades each 3rd of travel. The pitch change is progressively larger as you go from full down collective to full up collective.

Full down collective to 1/3 up collective....there is 5 degrees of pitch change......that gives a lot of finesse to lifting off and setting down.

Going from 1/3 collective to 2/3rds collective....there is a 7 degree pitch change.

The final third measured a full 10 degrees pitch input ....this is where you need less finesse......and more agress....

Stan

HobbyCAD

09-16-2009, 06:34 PM

Good mechanical exponential throw built into it..... Now that is something I will build into mine...

Thanks for sharing that Stan.

Francois

StanFoster

09-17-2009, 05:15 PM

Before I get started wiring....I needed to clean up a punchlist that I kept putting off. I wanted to finish my safety wiring on the non adjustble bolts. The tail rotor pitch links etc. will be safety wired after they are fine tuned during the initial startup.

My teleflex cable has been hanging in the breeze...so it was tied inot position with some white plastic ties. I am trying to color code my ties so they blend in nice. From a few feet you dont even see the ties on the white frame.

The vent tube for the tail rotor transmission was secured.

The vertical stabilizer bolt was adjusted and tightened down.

The fuel tank bolts were all double nutted with blue locktite as well. I will put torque seal on all pertinent bolts eventually.

I am in my final design of what exactly gets wired. I will start wiring after I get a major stair project over the hump.

Its a slow and steady pace as I have probably 3 months before my turbine arrives. Then, I am going to put on one huge blitz and get this baby delivered!

Stan

choppergabor

09-18-2009, 03:36 AM

Stan it's looking really great! What is the purpose of the hose going to the TRX? It looks as if this was a filler hose for the tail rotor box. Is it?

animal

09-18-2009, 05:28 AM

Looks good Stan, Am I seeing right? does that tail rotor have grease fittings to the pivot bearings?

That is really a well designed helicopter.

Also what is the vent line on top designed to do again? does that help it prevent blowing a seal?

If so I may add a vent line to the Commuter Jr. gearbox, it already has a screw in fitting on top.

All_In

09-18-2009, 05:45 AM

Looking good buddy!

StanFoster

09-18-2009, 06:11 AM

Gabor- That line is a modified TR gearbox vent to keep any oil seepage off my clean tail! The regular vent cap burbles out a little oil once in awhile. This way if it burbles out more than the line holds...it will simply go inside the vertical stabilizer and out a weep hole at the bottom. I will have Teletemp strips on this gearbox, the main transmission, and the turbine gearbox. There will also be a transmission pressure/temp gauge as well for these components.....and a chip light that will go on in the dash should something start disintegrating in the transmission or TR gearbox. The location of my clutch disengage and engage lights, the chip lights...are what I am trying to finalize right now. I then will send my instrument lower panel to Kim and Rex for their laser engraving. Then......I will really get into the wiring of this bird.....something I have been looking forward to for a long time. It has taken me a lot of thought to minimize later " I wish I had done it different' thoughts. In my stair business, a job well planned is already half done......looks like wiring this ship,is going to be the same. So...I am already half done with my wiring! ha. Tim.... there are 12 grease zerks on this chopper, something I love having control over. Thanks for the conments and the patience watching this helicopter slowly hatch ou. Stan

choppergabor

09-18-2009, 04:46 PM

Stan that's actually pretty neat solution. I guess the TRX fluid heat expansion is being compensated by doing so. But it sure shouldn't fill up that line! :) That would be bad. Do you have any peek hole where you can check the level of the fluid? The heat strips are great tool for detecting anything bad going on! I am glad you are using those. I am very patient especially seeing that you are so precise and thoughtful. My father used to tell me "good work takes time" The old man was a tool maker that worked in thousands of a millimeter. He was right. So just take your time. It's worth it :)

StanFoster

09-18-2009, 05:10 PM

Gabor- I figure the only way the oil would fill that line is if I over filled the gearbox. There is a sight glass at thw middle of the gearbox. I am pacing myself on this build unlike my SparrowHawk build. There I had all the parts at once! I prefer this s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d out build as it gives me a lot of time to put much needed thought into each step. I way underestimated how much I was going to enjoy this build. The best part will be tinkering with it right in my shop after its flying. Stan

StanFoster

09-20-2009, 04:19 AM

I am getting ready to ship this lower instrument panel to Kim to have her burn my switch labels on. Before I send it though....I have to also decide where to put the disengage and engaged clutch lights.

The first picture is where I decided to put them. There will be a red light to the left of the voltmeter with a label right above it indicating the clutch is disengaged. To the right of the voltmeter will be a green light indicating when the clutch is full engaged. These lights are triggered by micro switches at the top and bottom of the electric motor driven screw that locks an overcenter apparatus at 300 pounds pressure. Its really a simple and ingenious setup.

The upper instument panel will eventually have 3 lights that light when their chip detectors find problems developing in the turbine gearbox,..the transmission...or the tail rotor gearbox. I do not know exactly where to place these lights until I have them...but I want them high in my eyesight near the top of the panel.

Anyway....I am sending this panel off to Kim for laser engraving so I can then proceed with a lot of my wiring. I want my N360SF burned in right above the rectangle turbine tach cutout on the lower panel.

My seatbelts...gascolator...and some other msc. parts are enroute as I type....so I am kind of in a clean up my punchlist mode before I get to the really fun part of wiring this bird. I feel I have a lot of room for improvement over the wiring job I did on my SparrowHawk. I am going to try to run my wires as neatly as possible...This will probably evolve as I go.....constant wire tying......and then cutting those ties as I come up with more circuits...and rerouting of wires to make it as clean as I can.

Once the turbine arrives in 3 months...I am going to put on a final building blitz. I am looking forward to having this as my winter project.....I will be flying this machine early next year. I have no doubt that I would have had this flying the first part of 2009 had all the parts arrived at once...but my hindsight has me content that I have found out several changes that I will be making...that came to my mind as I was waiting months between each shipment. So.....I am really thankful that this helicopter kit came in four shipments scattered out over almost 2 years. I thought I was patient before....now I KNOW I am!

Stan

RICK MARTIN

09-20-2009, 04:37 AM

Stan,

That panel just oozes CLASS! I'm sure your other Helicycle buddies will ooo and aah when they see it.

It's so fun to watch you go through your build process.

Enjoy!

freebirdswife

09-20-2009, 06:25 AM

Stan,

I'm so excited to get to work on this for you! I think it will be beautiful when it is finished. Well maybe I should say "handsome". :-)

Can you PM me your phone number so I can give you a call today or tomorrow?

Thanks!
Kim

StanFoster

09-22-2009, 06:29 AM

Kim- My lower instrument panel is enroute to you. I sent a belly plate that is painted burgundy that you can burn some different samples before I have you burn the panel. Marking my ten switches and two clutch lights should make that panel complete. When I get it back...I will proceed with a lot of my wiring. Stan

StanFoster

09-22-2009, 02:39 PM

My seatbelt/shoulder harness arrived this afternoon...so a few slots cut with my dremel tool got it anchored to the frame at 4 points.

The last picture is the Andair gascolator I am installing. I am putting a high quality filter and pump to support the turbine. I really feel the turbine is almost bullet proof.....its the supporting equipment that needs to be as good as it can be.

Stan

animal

09-22-2009, 02:42 PM

Looking good Stan, your belts look a bit lighter then mine, mine are from a race car.

how long till you get your blades back?

StanFoster

09-23-2009, 03:52 AM

Tim- My rotorblades will be worked on when they receive 6 to 8 sets as it takes awhile to set up for just one pair. I just made sure that getting those blades bonded and shipped back to them was priority.....so that I was in the next run. Otherwise it could be months before they have enough to do another run. However, if I was needing my blades asap....they would do them. There are blades just now coming in from kits sold years ago. I am nearing 400 hours on this kit and would guess around 200 at the most to finish it. My SparrowHawk took 503 hours over 5 months of time. It was different as I had all the parts at once.....and my prime building time is during the winter. Once I receive my last shipment which is the turbine and clutch mechanism.....by the end of the year, it wont be that many hours left, as it should be mostly wired by then, and probably sitting idle for a month awaiting the turbine. I have to say though....when that turbine arrives, I will be ecstatic as then I know it will be just one last push to have it finished. I love working on this build with no pressure of seeing ALL the parts in a pile.....but rather just little piles fed slowly to chew on. I have enjoyed this build so far....and whats neat is my favorite part of wiring it....then installing the turbine is the last stage. I have all winter to finish this. Once the turbine is just bolted in....Doug told me to get him booked for the checkout. He said usually he can have that done within 2 months after I noitify him. So.....if my turbine arrives by the end of this year, I see no reason to have it flying late winter. Stan

StanFoster

09-23-2009, 04:07 PM

I have cleaned up my fuel delivery to the pump to a full 3/8 inch now. The turbine is such a dependable engine....its the supporting systems that are its weakest links.

I installed a gascolator at the lowest point in the fuel system. It has a bowl that comes off with the locknut that is safety wired....a 70 micron screen allows fuel but not water through. There is a quick drain at the bottom for sampling. I also installed a ball valve ahead of it so I can shut the fuel off to it for servicing the filter.

This gascolator feeds over 250 horse engines....

I will make a bracket to further support it....even though it doesnt feel necessary. I am awaiting my upgraded fuel pump to arrive before I can design the bracket.

Stan

ultracruiser41

09-23-2009, 04:24 PM

Stan,

I have been watching this thread since it's beginning.........you are a master craftsman!

A true work of art! (makes me not want to take my stuff out of the hangar!)

BarryK

StanFoster

09-24-2009, 02:32 AM

Barry- Thanks for the compliment.....but I am just an assembler.....sure, there is some fabricating....but nothing extraordinary. B.J Schramm that designed this chopper is the craftsman. Bring your machine out of the hanger and be proud of it!

Stan

StanFoster

09-24-2009, 05:29 PM

I found my fuel pump I want. Its a Carter....18 pounds pressure....internally regulated......free flow design so the pump can be shut down and still have the main engine pump deliver fuel.

Well...I was inquiring about it today on the phone....and after several specific questions...I was just directly asked what this was for. I usually am quick on my feet.....but I was tired...and just said its for a helicopter. While I was uttering those words....my conscious screamed at me to not say that. I used to order the drive belts for my SparrowHawk and always answered its for an airpump.

He quickly said...I cant sell you that pump......and hung up.

I will call back tomorrow on a different line....and order it and say its going to be powering a turbine generator. :lol:

I also am researching my batteries now. I need tail ballast....and instead of one 925 amp Oddyssey battery....I am going with two 680 amp Oddyssey batteries. I would rather have more turbine cranking power than lead ballast in the tail. Plus I will be able to have extra juice for an electric heated vest should I go with one. I was talking with Bob that flies an open cockpit Magni....and he says his keeps him toasty and draws just 7 amps.

I can move these narrower batteries farther aft on my tail.... I talked to a guy that weighs 260 pounds and has the auxillary fuel tank like I do. I am not hooking mine up till later down the road.

My battery holders will be adjustable fore and aft as their brackets slide on the longeron frame rails. I am either going to fabricate these....or cheat and buy some from Hap Miller who flies the heck out of his Helicycle and makes several aftermarket components for this ship.

Stan

All_In

09-24-2009, 10:47 PM

Sounds like a well thought out plan to me!
I know you'll get the pump but why does it always seem to take longer than it should?
Let us know if we can help.

freebirdswife

09-25-2009, 07:43 AM

Stan, I received a package in the mail yesterday! It is beautiful!!! All the photos looked great but to see the color in person is stunning. I'm working on everything now. I can't wait to send you some simulations!!!

Kim

StanFoster

09-25-2009, 09:09 AM

Kim- Thanks! That just shows my skills in knowing when to delegate out certain tasks to more qualified than myself. I am NOT a painter.....but I sure knew the painter that paints all of Tom Meents monster trucks that were world and national champions many times. Tom lives in my hometown of Paxton and So does his master painter Mark Stevenson. .............Mark painted my SparrowHawk and did a beautiful job. This Helicycle is wanted overseas very badly. If I didnt love it so much I would give into a huge monetary gain just waiting for me. I promised myself and my wife that this was the last kit I am building for myself......I am leaving myself some wiggle room for building from scratch a single seat gyro using carbon fiber...but that is way down the road and it will not replace my Helicycle. If I sell, then I never will experience a longtime goal of mine....building and flying my own helicopter. Its getting so close I can taste it, So Kim, just like delegating out my painting the chopper, I am delegating the instrument labeling to you who,I know will do it better than myself. Thanks again for the comment on the color. I also need to delegate out my picture taking which leaves a lot to be desired. As you can see Kim....it doesnt look near as colorful on my photo posts as it does in person. Stan

StanFoster

09-25-2009, 04:20 PM

I had some time today to start rough wiring this bird. I am running all the wires along the longeron frame rails....inside loops of nylon ties. I have the ties loose and then just feed each circuit through the hoops. Each wire is labeled on each end where it is to be connected to...and where it is coming from. Its my way of redundancy in marking my wires. When I am all done...I will spiral wrap all the wires into need bundles. The wires are all white...the spiral wrap will be white....and this will all blend in nicely along the longeron frame rails.

Several of these circuits are run wild back to where the turbine will be. I added extra length since I dont know exactly how much is needed.

I am looking forward to Kim burning my switch labels onto my instrument panel. These wires and many more will be awaiting hookup to that lower panel.

Stan

freebirdswife

09-25-2009, 04:40 PM

Your pictures are great but they don't do justice to the actual item in hand. I don't know that any picture would. I should have some samples to you tomorrow. I did an acrylic overlay today to make sure everything was positioned right. I'll laser the other piece this weekend and see what you like best.

She is a beauty!!!

Kim

choppergabor

09-25-2009, 04:42 PM

The fun part is when you hook up all of them flip the battery switch and see the panel light up. Probably the most satisfying feeling. You are almost there :)

animal

09-25-2009, 04:56 PM

Stan,we are at the same stage, I have to reinstall my wiring next.lol

StanFoster

09-26-2009, 03:09 AM

Kim- If I dont like your laser labeling....I will just go to Wal-mart and buy one of those label making tools and cover up your work. ha:lol:

I am looking forward to seeing the samples. Post them here if you want...or just send them to me by e-mail.....doesnt matter.

When I get the panel back....I will get a chunk of my wiring done.

I was going to have you put some scroll work on the corners....but I am not usually in favor of extra fancy stuff. I just like to keep it simple...like the paint scheme on the outside.

Stan

birdy

09-27-2009, 02:03 AM

Bloodyell Stan, ages ago i thought that youd be flyn by the time you got to 1000 posts on this thread.
Mate, get ya fingure out, i wana see this jewel flyn.

Oh yeh, ya still do'n an orrite job. ;)

StanFoster

09-27-2009, 06:39 AM

Birdy- If the company could supply all the parts in one shipment...I would have had it ready to fly in 6 months. My SparrowHawk was ready to fly in 5 months. But...like I have mentioned....the time between the 4 shipments was much needed to think all this stuff through. Lots of ships out there ...and lots of different ways of going about it. I have been chewing on the way I want to build this...and it just takes time.

I remember when my SparrowHawk was out of my shop all finished. As bad as I wanted to get it into the air....I missed working on it. I dreamed of being able to land it at my shop....and park it in its own room.

This build is allowing me to savor the process.....and when I am done....it will still be in my shop. I have never enjoyed not flying my own ship as I have during this build. I know how ecstatic I feel being able to fly a helicopter...hovering it....setting down most anywheres, doing quick stops....and now being able to cruise easily at 95-100 mph. Those thoughts make this project worth it to me. The icing on the cake will be having it right at my shop where I can give it the extra attention a helicopter requires. That will also be enjoyable doing the maintenance...upgrading ...etc.

We all are wired differently....and some would just rather fly than ever build....some would rather build and never fly......and then a lot of us want to build and fly. I totally understand all three situations.

The hardest part of this build I have found is trying to be patient with impatient people. I have many stop by my shop....and just about to climb out of their skins wondering why its taking me so long. I have learned to just say "why be in a hurry while I am enjoying this build?" Most do not understand that. A lot of my success I have had building curved stairways is having a lot of patience.

Birdy...I love reading your flying stories...and I assure you that once I get this flying...I will resume a very steady stream of chopper pictures. :wave:

Stan

birdy

09-27-2009, 06:40 PM

We all are wired differently
Good thing too, or the world would be a boreing place.
Thats why there are builders [ you] and benders [ me] . ;)

StanFoster

09-28-2009, 03:51 PM

These three holes left in my dash are expensive to fill. The two right below the GPS takes a radio and possibly a transponder. The lone hole to the left is waiting for me to decide to have a fuel flow meter installed. Everyone that has one swears by it.... I just have to spread this monetary shock out a little! I am more determined to fully equip this thing as these ships are very much in demand since they take so long to get all the shipments.

If I knew what I know now....and if I could have afforded it.....I would have gotten on the list for another Helicycle kit. There are some hot buyers out there wanting a Helicycle kit...but not wanting to wait. They are willing to pay a big premium.

Stan

Mark E

09-28-2009, 06:46 PM

There are some hot buyers out there wanting a Helicycle kit...but not wanting to wait. They are willing to pay a big premium.

Stan

Ha ha - I can see a second business starting here: ";)Stan's Helicycle Assembly"

StanFoster

09-29-2009, 03:07 PM

I have been looking on the internet for just the right gearshift boot for my cyclic. I dont like the leather wrapped ones...and always wanted one of these bellows type. They are symetrical...and just look nice. I just thought that somewhere out there is a gearshift boot that I could modify to suit my needs.

I found a gearshift boot for a 1972 Toyota...that I thought with some modifications...it would fit my cyclic shaft...and I would make an aluminum ring at the bottom and rivet it on.

Well....throw all that out the window. My gearshift boot came today...I held it up to the cyclic and thought...it looks like it will be a very tight fit on the cyclic shaft ....and it was.....a perfect clampless fit. That isnt all of the story. I looked at the bottom and the gearshift bit has a lip all the way around it to fit in a Toyota floorpan. I thought...."no....this cant be this good." The flange fit the round cutout in my floorpan perfectly! I could not freakin believe it.

I am not finished. Now when I move my cyclic....there is a nice gentle cyclic centering action..both for/aft and left/right. Its like this will be nice when sitting on the ground with the blades running....as it will keep neutral inputs to the rotorhead.

I couldnt have been more pleased ....and it reinforced my persistive nature to just keep digging until you find what you want.

The last few pictures show the boot flexing during left and right cyclic inputs.

The very last picture shows the circuits I have been running....awaiting for a turbine to connect them to. I called the factory today and told Blake about the gearshift boot...and was delighted to hear my last shipment with my turbine should be here by the first of December.

All the wires coming out the lower instrument pod will be hooked up to my lower instrument panel that Kim is laser labeling for me. I cant wait to see her work on my panel.

I love days like this!!

Stan

All_In

09-29-2009, 03:17 PM

Gives it that quality production look. Perfect fit what a great solution.

Now you can sell your new product cyclic boot to the other helicycle builders so they too can have a sweet looking ride.:boink:

freebirdswife

09-29-2009, 03:39 PM

Stan,

Just sent you a little PM. :-)

Kim

StanFoster

09-29-2009, 04:18 PM

Kim- You can send the pictures of my panel to strbldr@yahoo.com

Cant wait to see them!

Stan

scottessex

09-29-2009, 04:40 PM

Lookin good Stan!

StanFoster

09-29-2009, 05:14 PM

Kim- I am extremely pleased with the samples you sent me. Go ahead and burn my instument panel! I cant stand any more excitement today. :peace:

Stan

freebirdswife

09-30-2009, 02:24 AM

Kim- I am extremely pleased with the samples you sent me. Go ahead and burn my instument panel! I cant stand any more excitement today. :peace:

Stan

Great! I'll get it finished today. I'll email you a picture when I'm finished. :-)

Kim

Resasi

09-30-2009, 03:04 AM

You're right Stan, other peoples builds can be just as exciting, and definitely not as much work. Love your attention to detail.

You had me on the edge of my seat fitting that boot.

In the exec jet world that's how some people make money, positions on popular models.

GyroRon

09-30-2009, 03:45 AM

I FINALLY received word today that my first shipment of my Helicycle is now crated and will be on the truck this Thursday. Due to the company moving to a new building...and all the logistics involved with such....builders group #5 has been delayed.

After my first R22 lesson last Saturday.....it will be worth the wait. That experience has me mellowed out as I know that I want to pursue this even more.

I have received many PM's from helicopter guys...all assuring me I will love it...and it will never get boring.

As soon as the truck arrives in a week or so....I will have a steady flow of build pictures. This build will take over a year...just due to the fact thats how long all the shipments take to get to me. The last shipment is that kerosene burning turbine.

Life is so fun....

Stan

Stan, I would have lost my mind and gone coo coo for coco puffs a long time ago if I had a on going project taking this long to complete. My hat is off to you for being able to wait so long to see this project done.

animal

09-30-2009, 05:41 AM

I called the factory today and told Blake about the gearshift boot...and was delighted to hear my last shipment with my turbine should be here by the first of December.

I love days like this!!
Stan

Dear Santa, please bring me 500 gallons of JP-4, Cookies and milk are on the table.

Stan, so glad to hear you will have that Turbine before Christmas. something tells me we know what you will be doing Christmas day.. :)

StanFoster

09-30-2009, 07:09 AM

Ron- I have said before that I have never enjoyed not flying as much as I have during this build. This thing is part of me and I am savoring every minute I spend on it. Sure I want to fly it .....but I have that to look forward to while I am enjoying this build with a passion................Tim, on Christmas day I will be thinking of more important things. Stan

StanFoster

09-30-2009, 03:22 PM

I receive a lot of e-mails from lurkers who never post. I appreciate them and here are some pictures of the swashplate and rotorhead as requested. The first two are the collective full down and up. You can see the two tabs that slide up inside the two locking rings on the rotor driveshaft. These keep the swashplate indexed on one cardinal point.

The one picture shows how easy it is to get into the belly of this ship. I am running all my wires up both longerons . Eventually they will be very neatly spiral wrapped in two tight bundles. Those curls of wires are just that...they are awaiting me to finish up wiring strobes...nav lights....start buttons ...etc.

It wont be long and I will start completing circuits.

The last picture made me laugh....its like the my tornado is getting an attitude with me!

Stan

animal

09-30-2009, 03:35 PM

Stan. are those trim springs under your cyclic?

It is looking good,I still have to make a belly pan for the Commuter.

but as you well know a lot of the fun is figuring these things out.

I will try and get to the Helicycle factory and get a pic of your Turbine if I get time to. would be cool to see the factory.

StanFoster

09-30-2009, 03:48 PM

Tim- There are no springs on my cyclic. There are some on the collective however up in the belly. However..that rubber boot adds a nice centering spring action.

By the way,......I was just sent a picture of my instrument panel. Kim did a beautiful job. I thanked her for the job she did so well. Here it is.

Stan

choppergabor

09-30-2009, 03:54 PM

Lookie lookie that is a sharp panel! Nice job Miss Kim! 360 Super Flyer?

animal

09-30-2009, 04:03 PM

Oh that is very nice.

freebirdswife

09-30-2009, 04:24 PM

Thank you Stan for the kind words. I have to say that I was little nervous because of all the detail you have put into your machine. I am thrilled with the way it turned out. I think it looks great and can't wait for you to see it in person!!!

Kim

scottessex

09-30-2009, 04:30 PM

SWEET!
very very nice, outstanding.

I'm impressed.

StanFoster

10-03-2009, 11:55 AM

I was working on my chopper all morning and went home at 2 p.m. I found a package on my doorstep...and it was my instrument panel from Kim!

Kim.....I got to hand it to you gal......you rock! That labeling is absolutely perfect.....I was extemely impressed. Anyone out there....this lady is top notch.

I have most of my rough circuits done....and now I will take a little breather ....work on some stairs next week...then start wiring this lower panel.

Stan

choppergabor

10-03-2009, 12:49 PM

Oh yeah! That is neat! Nice panel for a nice chopper. Miss Kim YOU DA .....uhum LADY! :) It is really a nice addition to your top notch quality Stan. I love it. Now I am thinking what I could use such a nice thing on my Bee??? LOL Ok I see I'm going to have to build something more serious to have a panel on....... :)

StanFoster

10-04-2009, 03:00 AM

Here are a few more shots of the panel that Kim did a perfect job lasering for me. I wired up my nav lights...and have a temporary power source connected to the wiring to test each circuit as I proceed with my wiring. I have PLENTY of time to get the instrument panel wired as I am expecting my last shipment which is my turbine and the rest of the materials for the final completion phase this winter.

After I have the instrument panel wired....I will spend the idle time making a storage compartment under my seat. I am planning on being able to lift it out and gain access to my cyclic controls and internal wiring bundles.

Stan

StanFoster

10-04-2009, 03:08 AM

What makes this so easy to wire is having the access through the bottom of the cabin where the two halves open up. I have my wires half way organized all the frame longerons....and after I am satisfied all my circuits are run...and they all test out ok...I will place some white spiral wrap around all these wiring bundles. I dont want any hot wires rubbing the frame anywhere at all. The last picture shows some carpeting I bought at Menards that was the color I have been looking for. It goes with the speckled paint on the pod.

Stan

freebirdswife

10-04-2009, 08:27 AM

Stan,

Thank you so much! It looks great installed. I loved doing it. Can't wait to see it in person. Hopefully at Bensen Days.

Again, such a stunning build!!!!

Kim

StanFoster

10-04-2009, 03:43 PM

Kim- I will be at Bensen Days...but not my chopper. It should be done by then...but I am not a haul it across the country type. That is hard on them. I am not into flying large cross county trips either. Bensen Days is fun just to watch everyone else fly. I hope to see you and Rex there....if not...I WILL be flying my Helicycle to Mentone next summer......That is one flight I am anxious to make. I havent flown to Mentone since 97.

Stan

StanFoster

10-05-2009, 04:16 PM

Not very exciting stuff..but while some glue was drying on a stairway....I put some velcro squares on my carpet pads. I didnt want to glue these in...but just "rip" them out for cleaning when necessary. I also wanted my heels to be able to dig in and not slide while on the pedals.

I am just knocking off soms msc. stuff before I get on the instrument panel wiring.

I have two whole months for doing this before the turbine arrives.

Stan

StanFoster

10-08-2009, 04:15 PM

The UPS guy dropped off my clutch lights...so I took a little time and installed them. The instructions called for a 1/2 inch hole...so like usual...I took a scrap and tried it. I used a sharp 1/2 inch paddle bit. I tried the light..and it was a tad too loose for me....so I ground down the paddle bit just about a 1/64 of an inch...and now they have to be pressed in fairly hard before they snap in place.

I was good to go for the real holes.

I tested both light circuits and now I am ready to proceed with some wiring.

Stan

choppergabor

10-08-2009, 05:24 PM

I always admire those who question and don't just take one's word for it. It calls for half an inch and if you went for it it would be loose! Now that would make you mad I know. Good for you for trying first. I got a lot to learn from you! Looking good my friend. Ok nice and slowly I am getting my radio and poncho and some minor stuff and ready to leave for ROC. I'll shoot a few pics too so far no one posted any yet. Thanks Stan for this thread it is very educational by all means! :)

Mark E

10-08-2009, 06:23 PM

...so like usual...I took a scrap and tried it. ..and it was a tad too loose for me....so I ground down the paddle bit just about a 1/64 of an inch...and now they have to be pressed in fairly hard before they snap in place.
Stan

Ah .... the mind of the perfectionist at work! (I'd have been lucky to read the initial instruction correctly, much less automatically do a test run).

I also have come to realize and appreciate the effort you put into maintaining this thread! It takes a lot of time and effort to organize and upload all those photos (been trying to post some (fairly inconsequential ones) myself)! :confused:.

I always look forward to seeing your progress.

http://i.pbase.com/o2/48/591148/1/118072596.oKVdt9N2.StanTest.jpg

StanFoster

10-09-2009, 03:18 AM

I am using these terminal blocks from Aircraft Spruce to start attaching some wires. I am showing my rats nest that actually will be a lot more in there when I am done. I will have when finished a neat spiral wrapped bundle exiting the right...and the left side when I am all finished. I have a 12 gauge ground wire going down both sides of the ship and ending up on the left terminal block.

I am kind of busy in my stairshop...but I will start chipping away at my wiring. If my turbine were coming next week....I would do what it takes to get these wires hooked up....but I have a leisurely two months to accomplish this.

Stan

StanFoster

10-09-2009, 12:32 PM

I received my Microaire radio today...and between glue ups...I got it mounted behind the panel. It wasnt as easy as it should have been. They supplied a template for drilling my dash. Thank God I never trust anyone...I checked it and I will be dang if that freakin template was off quite a bit. Had I drilled it on their locations...I would have had to have elliptical holes with washers needed to hide them. Wow....you have to be responsible for everything.

So......I drew out a perfect square and traced the diagonals....then set my calipers to the exact diameter of the hole pattern. I DID not assume that the radios screws were on perfect 45 degrees of layout like the template said....they were indeed off a little. So...my perfect template had to be adjusted a tad to fit the radio screw layout.

I am wired to not trust anyones measurements without verifying myself...and stuff like today just reinforces that in me.

Anyway...it came out according to Hoyle...and another hole filled in my dash.

Stan

Kandace

10-09-2009, 12:37 PM

Looking really sweet Stan!

Kandace

If you ever wind up needing anyone to help burn up those 40 flight test hours just let me know LOL! (kinda):angel:

StanFoster

10-10-2009, 11:21 AM

Kandace- If I get tired of burning off the 40 hours...I will give you a call......:p

Stan

Mark E

10-10-2009, 06:00 PM

... more perfectionism....(which I am not usually noted for..) :violin:

Stan - I will delete this post later so it does not clutter up the thread - so no need for a reply which will also add to the clutter.:)

- you do have here the most wonderful build thread I have seen - except for the errant white balance setting on your camera (or I could be wrong on that... it might be somewhere in between, but it seems a bit warm to me )

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=271

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=272

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=270

http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=269

StanFoster

10-10-2009, 06:15 PM

grimwat- You arent the first one thats brought this up. I dropped my camera several months ago, and cant bring up the screen to adjust things. I am going to get a new camera soon. I am just one level above retarded when cameras and computers are involved. Stan

StanFoster

10-11-2009, 06:57 AM

Man....I have been studying the turbine install videos. I have never looked forward to this coming winters project of installing the Solar T-62 turbine...and then final wrapping this project up...and getting it flight ready.

The most interesting work is yet to come not counting the wiring I have been looking forward to and just about to start.

The governor requires some diodes, capacitors...resistors...etc...to be soldered together to keep that mother running at 61500 rpm. I am getting more enthused about this project the more I work on it. This is contrary to most aircraft builds where the last just drags on.

There is a modification to the main fuel solenoid which makes it fail safe. In other words...if electrical power is lost...normally it shuts the fuel down....requiring voltage to keep the valve open. The modification reverses this and requires voltage to shut the fuel off.

I have a picture here showing the back of my switch panel. If you notice...the middle switch at the top has its lugs reversed. The reason is this switch was purposely placed in upside down so that down is actually closing the switch...and up is opening it.

When the turbine is first starting up....the main fuel solenoid is shut off...but after a certain rpm....the main fuel solenoid is commanded "on" by switching that middle breaker up. In reality...its actually switching "off" the voltage to the main fuel solenoid...and actually turning it "on" to allow the fuel to flow to the six fuel injectors placed around the burner can of the turbine.

The first picture is the back of the switch panel...and you can see the middle switch is upside down. The 2nd picture you can see MFS above this middle switch designating it as the main fuel solenoid. This again has to be off at the initial engine start...but then switched on after a certain rpm is reached ...pouring the fuel to the 6 burners. It would be confusing to me to have the switch in the normal position. I would be inadvertantly switching it the wrong way.

This thread has just started! Please excuse my never ending exuberance for this project...but I have simply loved working on this chopper.

Stan

choppergabor

10-11-2009, 07:16 AM

Kandace- If I get tired of burning off the 40 hours...I will give you a call......:p

Stan

Oh yeah and what am I? Chopped liver? No I am chopperGabor quite different isn't it? LOL. You are great Stan I can't wait to meet you. I might bring a heli to Bensen and will give ya a ride if you trust me :)

animal

10-11-2009, 07:21 AM

Gabor, after seeing your Videos, you are welcome to come fly the Helicom Commuter anytime when I have it back ready to fly.that is if it does not sell fast.

animal

10-11-2009, 07:22 AM

Stan your helicopter is looking better everyday. we know who will get the prize at mentone next year.. :)

StanFoster

10-11-2009, 07:24 AM

Gabor- That would be great bringing a chopper to Bensen Days. hey...I know they dont run on Pepsi......I will enjoy buying some time. Are you thinking an R22...or a 269?

I was sugar coating to Kandace....I should be like Ron....and say...."Heck no....you aint flying my chopper"

I wont say that to you Gabor...until after I get to fly yours...then I will turn on you....:lol:

This is going to be a well looked forward to Bensen Days.

Watch out...I will have my body guards at Bensen Days....John and Tim...the animal. John can buy my way out of trouble...and Tim has friends who can rip peoples arms off and beat then beat them to death with it......ha

Stan

choppergabor

10-11-2009, 07:34 AM

Lol thanks Tim I have a feeling you guys have been talking to Mike my student, and he was probably telling tall stories about me... Don't believe them. Things always seem more mystical for the untrained eye LOL! And no I didn't 180 full down autod between construction cones that were 3 feet apart! (officially) I'll deny it! LOL Stan my friend I only fly Schweizer due to my weight I am down to 224 right now. The two of us would split the 22's skid just sitting in it :) 269 it is. I'll get the one that's VFR so we can horse around.... Even Ron wants to ride it. Sooooo I don't think I am going to ha a choice but rent one.... It is going to be great! I also have Tom wanting to get a checkride from me for his BFR....

StanFoster

10-11-2009, 07:52 AM

Gabor- Looking forward to it......I never have touched the controls of a 269. It seems by memory they can handle 300 pounds in each seat....whereas the R22 is maxed out at 400 pounds total.

Stan

choppergabor

10-11-2009, 08:10 AM

You are correct again my friend. They do well with 600 lbs and still have some left so we don't pull 28 inches manifold pressure :). I'd hate to put you on diet ya know. Cause I ain't gonna suffer so ya'll can fly LOL!

StanFoster

10-11-2009, 08:19 AM

Gabor- I am going to go on your sleeping pill/laxative diet. hey...read the off topic with your name in it .....

now...back to the chopper.....

StanFoster

10-14-2009, 02:00 PM

I made up my wire harness for my radio....installed the antennae..and installed the BNC connectors on the R-58 cable.

I put some power to my radio and lit it up....later as I hook up the headphone jacks...PTT switch...and channel changer switch, I will take it outside and see how far it transmits. I am going to have the SWR checked and adjusted also.

The PTT switch will be my red button on my cyclic..and the channel changer will be another micro switch I have wired on my cyclic grip. The more I run from the cyclic...the handier it will be.

Even though I have loved the build so far....the wiring and installing the turbine have been my most anticipated part of this project.

Stan

StanFoster

10-14-2009, 02:12 PM

I have most of the rough wiring run....and its time to start untangling the spahetti behind my panel.

I started by running my ground buss bar. I have two # 12 ground wires going down both sides of the frame. They meet at this connection bar.

I also have a ground coming up from the frame here also. The frame will be grounded several places to my main ground wires.

The buss bar on the left handles the 12 volts. I have 3 individual wires running power to this buss bar. 2 of them can fail...and all will be fine.

When I am done...the lower instrument panel will just tilt back against the cyclic, with neatly wrapped bundles of wires feeding it. The upper instrument panel has a 9 pin connector that unplugs everything, ground, power, all the instruments. I just have also unplug the radio harness..and its antennae...and the upper instrument panel comes clear out of the ship. This is extremely easy to work on.

I am extremely busy in my shop...but will now take about an hour a day and hook up some circuits.

Stan

choppergabor

10-14-2009, 02:29 PM

Great progress. I hate wires.......(used to be an electrician). Stan are you planning on a transponder later on?

StanFoster

10-14-2009, 02:35 PM

Gabor- That hole next to the radio is for a transponder. I never have had one....and I still may not spend the money again. 99% of my flying is in the boonies, and going into class C or B is something I can live without. But...having a transponder would let me land at the class C airport just 30 miles south of me. I know its good for aircraft avoidance equipment...and if I find a good used one...I will put one in. It would be a Microaire.

Stan

choppergabor

10-14-2009, 02:47 PM

Good thinking, not only for B and C but if you come around a D class having squawk 1200 they will not treat you any differently from the rest being an experimental. ATC can be a bitch and they can be real a$$es. Only personal experience :)

StanFoster

10-14-2009, 03:33 PM

Gabor- Another hole I need to fill is the one just to the left of my GPS. I would like to put a fuel flow meter there. They are very accurate, and will let me know how much fuel is lwft, fuel burn rate, max rangw. If I want to really get sophisticated, which is against my KISS way, is to have this fuel flow interfaced with my GPS, and that would be cool to see my range limits drawn as an arc on my screen. I also can get XM weather on my screen if I want to subscribe to it. I will probably save these fancy options till after I gain some real flying experience first. Then it will be fun to upgrade later. Stan

lanichol

10-14-2009, 04:07 PM

Stan,

I have used the crimp w/heat shrink connectors as it prevents air & humidity from getting to the wire. Did you consider using this style connector?

I am also interested in how you will bundle the wires. Could you take a few real close-up pictures with the different techniques & brackets.

I think this thread has taught many on creative ways to drill, cut, clamp, glue, seal tanks, and different ways to use materials. One of the final skills is wiring which I may be OK, but willing to learn from the best.

Thanks
Larry

StanFoster

10-14-2009, 04:29 PM

Larry- Thanks for the comment......but I assure you I am not the best at wiring or many other things! I guarantee the wiring job will be a heck of a lot neeter , more easily traced than the way I wired my SparrowHawk. I will show my improved ways of wiring with lots of pictures. ..........I am going to use lots of heat shrink tubing, wire ties, and my newest stuff....spiral wrap. I am not going to have any wires directly laying against any frame or anything because of that spiral wrap. My weakest area has always been my radio transmissions. By god...somehow I am going to do this one right...........Thanks for the interest Larry. Stan

StanFoster

10-15-2009, 03:42 PM

I hooked up the first of many connections here in the photos. I have to be careful keeping everything neat and orderly..and bundled correctly so the lower panel will tilt back easily for access.

I am using heat shrink on each terminal....not for insulating reasons..but for a better strain relief. That wire felt more secure after I hit the heat shrink with a torch. I have a bunch of mini loops to fabricate and hookup between the circuit breakers. I am going to get the right length figured out, then clone a bunch of these. They will all be bent the same and should make for a fun time wiring this lower panel.

Stan

Earthboundmisft

10-15-2009, 04:32 PM

StanFoster

10-15-2009, 04:39 PM

Mike- You may be on to something. I am going with something thats worked well for me. I like the sound of your way though.

Stan

lanichol

10-15-2009, 05:12 PM

:director:Hey Stan, I think Larry was talking about marine quality ring terminals, that have the plastic part made of heat shrink. They also have some epoxy inside the plastic part that oozes out and hardens after you shrink them. They are expensive, but the best I have used. Mike.

Yes I think that is correct, the connector is water proof so it can not corrode. First it is crimped & a tugged to test crimp. Note I used heat shrink inside the connector to prevent kinks. and the connector shrinks tight against the red heat shrink. The cost was not that much more when you consider you are betting your life on the connections.

The first one I did like this for a test was in the vise. Pulled like heck and finally the wire insulation behind the red heat shrink stretched to reveal the bare wire. The one on the left is a larger guage and appears flat, but the connector shrink is actually round and transparent.

StanFoster

10-15-2009, 07:11 PM

Larry and Mike- You guys caught my attention, and I am pausing on my wiring till I check out these marine terminals. I do pull test and am satisfied there, but if these have better strain relief, then I will switch. I always try to keep an open mind to better ideas.....I like learning , even in my own build thread! Do you guys use the military style crimpers?...and no solder also? Thanks again.

lanichol

10-15-2009, 08:41 PM

Do you guys use the military style crimpers?...and no solder also? Thanks again.

Stan,

Not an expert, as I was asking you! But this is what a found last year.

Don't know the crimp style, Asked for the best for this type connector and paid alot of money if that counts! I originally purchased the connectors from NAPA (http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(d4g5ev45c053ikyi1czmsx55))/Welcome.aspx) 3 to a box [784452], then found they had a large box of connectors. Also found an online (http://order.waytekwire.com/scategory2/M37/320/350/Heat%20Shrinkable%20Terminals/Terminals%20And%20Connectors/) source for connectors, looms, Wire Markers & Labels, and heavy wall sleeving. I liked the idea of labeling the wires & keeping a diagram on paper.

Marine do come with solder which I tried. I was not sure if the solder or the heat shrink was holding the connection. I trust the crimp as I can see it, and feel it before shrinking (much faster).

Used quick motion & rotation with a bic lighter to shrink it, being careful not to burn. The bic you can control how even it shrinks because you are heating all sides at once (in the flame, not the tip of the flame as it will burn), much better than a solder iron. Took less than a minute to strip, crimp & shrink (10 sec). Replaced all the old style (http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17081&highlight=wire) external as I could see some blue/green discoloration.

If I was building your small loop jumpers, I would use these connector, plus additional heat shrink over the entire wire. I was originally inspired when I connected my 220 volt water well pump with a similar connector. I questioned my electrician how such a connector could work & not leak voltage under water. His comment was "it just works, never had a problem."

Recently, connectors (http://www.rbba.us/documents/crimping.pdf) which incorporate shrink-tube insulation sleeves have been introduced to the consumer marine market. The connector-wire joint is first crimped, the a heat gun is used to seal the connector insulation to the wire cover making a waterproof joint. This would appear to be the best method for making up connections, especially below decks, or in other salt atmosphere spaces.

inventer

10-15-2009, 09:19 PM

The pictures and its INFO were done well. Thank U

StanFoster

10-16-2009, 01:12 AM

Larry- You keep using the term 'expert' .....and i feel if I were one, I wouldnt be absorbing the fine information that you are expertly sharing with me.....ironic. Thanks for the info, and I am checking this out today. Maybe when I am done, listening to expert advice from people like you and Mike will make me closer to being one. Stan

StanFoster

10-16-2009, 02:36 PM

Larry- I looked at those marine fittings...and they looked nice....but I revised the method I have used for years without problems.

I have always soldered my connections. I know there are pluses and minuses to soldering, but I trust my soldered joints more than just a crimped one.

The problem is that strain relief is important. You mentioned a couple of heat shrink wraps.....and that gave me an idea.

I made up a sample here....used aviation grade ends....crimped them....then put some 3/16 shrink tubing inside the insulated end. I shrunk it with heat....then put a 2nd 3/16 shrink tube over the first one. I cut it 1/4 inch longer so as to spread out the bending load.....then shrunk that one.

I followed up with a 3rd one that was cut another 1/4 inch longer than the 2nd one....and shrank it on also.

I was very pleased with the feel of this.....it spreads the load nicely. In the last picture ...if you look closely you can see the stair stepped shrink wrap around the wire.

Next I tried an end that was just soldered and bent it back and forth for a while...and it finally broke. I am still bending this test sample. I am thoroughly convinced that these will do very well for me.

I am proceeding with the wiring of the lower switches which will be in the next post.

Stan

StanFoster

10-16-2009, 02:48 PM

I had to make 10 jumpers to run power from the circuit breaker to the bottom lugs of my 10 switches. I made two mockups...and decided on the shorter one....then cloned 9 more. I prebent these, then soldered them. The connectors slid on very tight on the spades, leaving the ring connector right at the screw terminal on the circuit breaker. Each one fit like without any manipulation or strain on it.

I am making loops in the harness so that when this panel is hinged back for access...the wires wont be stressed much.

The bundle coming off the circuit breakers has several layers of heat shrink tubing on them, so the load is spread also. I like the feel of this,...it is not tugging on the terminals.

Stan

Doug Riley

10-17-2009, 07:29 AM

Stan: I've been using the method you describe (stepped layers of heat-shrink over a soldered crimp terminal) for years with zero failures. I use it on trailers and such as well.

Solder reduces the electrical resistance of the joint. That matters with the tiny currents and voltages associated with thermocouples, reluctors (rotor tach coil pickups) and other unpowered sensors. It also gets a little more juice back to those cheesy trailer lights I buy.

In my opinion, of course.

ckurz7000

10-17-2009, 08:56 AM

What I do is to crimp the lug on and the flow solder around the crimp connection. Over that joint I use two stepped heat shrinks (Stan describes three, which is probably better still).

I like to think that I get the best of both worlds. The vibration restistance of a crimp connection and the low electrical resistance of a well done solder joint topped off by the strain relilef of the stepped heat shrink tubing around it.

-- Chris.

StanFoster

10-17-2009, 12:34 PM

Doug and Chris- Its encouraging to see you two using the same methods. I like a soldered joint...and like you mentioned Doug.....the resistance is lower. I have a stout pull tested crimp before I solder.

I have some pictures here of my spaghetti slowly turning into neat bundles. Its a good feeling seeing chaos turn to order.

I will be wiring a 9 pin connector soon that feeds the upper instrument panel. I love the way the lower panel can tilt forward easily for access...and the upper instrument panel will simply unplug .....and out comes the whole panel, instruments and all.

Stan

animal

10-17-2009, 01:31 PM

well,all I can say,is it sure makes my simple wiring harness in my commuter H1B look sad.

that sure does look nice stan. but of course I would expect no less from your builds.

wont be long till that Turbine gets here.

lanichol

10-17-2009, 03:08 PM

Very clean, thanks for the detail pictures. Just to be sure, what is the type wire & gauge you are using for your instruments and purchased by the roll?

So do the old timers like Doug keep a 50' roll of mil wire in their shop?

StanFoster

10-17-2009, 04:02 PM

Larry- Thanks! I am trying to keep it neat as I can. I bought my wire from Aircraft Spruce by the roll. 14 gauge, 20 gauge. It is a high grade wire, and the insulation is very tough. My ground wire runs are 12 gauge. I cant answer what type, but I will find out. I am totally confident that my wiring is above average. I say that because I am trying to think this through and then wire it as secure as I can. The extra shrink wrap I am using just makes it look anf feel very secure. I didnt do near as good of a job wiring my SparrowHawk, and I wanted to really try and improve on this one. Stan

Terry

10-17-2009, 05:25 PM

Hi Stan,

I just came back into your thread, and the few times I've visited I've found it fascinating.

I am wondering why you are using spade connections in some of your wiring. If I missed it earlier, I'm sorry; but it is an important question.

StanFoster

10-17-2009, 06:00 PM

Terry- The switches came with spades, thats why. You would not believe how hard they are to pull off. Tell me the importance....just curious! Stan

Terry

10-17-2009, 06:40 PM

Terry- The switches came with spades, that's why. You would not believe how hard they are to pull off. Tell me the importance....just curious! Stan

If the switches are non-critical, spade connectors would not be a problem at all. If the switches, or any other connections are flight safety critical, and/or nuisance critical for some people, then they can be a problem.

Unless something has changed in the thinking of the FAA, spade connections would be rejected in an airworthiness inspection.

Adding to this, best practice, wire bundles should be laid in close to the switches with all wires leaving the back of the switch bank and bending to join the bundle, with a cord or nylon cable tie at regular intervals. The bundle should not place a load on the switch connections by being secured itself to the panel before continuing away from the panel. In this way, vibrations in flight, extra G loads, and panel manipulations for inspection and service would not jeopardize the connections.

If you can imagine opening or removing the panel, everything should be secured so that the connections themselves see little to no torque.

Your work is beautiful, and I hope you take this as encouragement, not criticism, as your safety is important to all of us.

A well secured bundle running along the switch row and then secured to a stand-off or two before leaving the panel is ideal for aviation applications.

Take a look under the panel of an older Cessna to see what I mean.

As tall as your panel is, and to leave your leg space open, you could run your bundle down the middle of the switchbank and secure it on a stand-off at the bottom of the panel, and in the middle if you decide, before turning the wires to their destinations. The stand-off(s) should be fastened to the panel so that panel, switches, and wiring form a monolithic unit when handled.

Also, when leaving the switches, the wires should not go straight to the bundle, but should be pre-bent to form kind of a question mark shape to the bundle; this for vibration damping and to insure the bundle weight is not applied to the wire connections, and to insure ease of handling when individual connections are taken loose.

Hope this makes sense. FAA or not, it is best practice.

StanFoster

10-17-2009, 07:48 PM

Terry- All I can say is to come back in a month or so, and then I should have my wiring of the panel 99% complete. I am very aware of placing standoffs to keep the pressure off the terminals. I think I am off to a good start.... I just am not done yet! This rotorcraft like many others non-certified and experimental just never will be at the level other certified aircraft are. All I can say is I am trying to hack out to a reasonable safety level, a helicopter that I will put my butt in an go fly. Stan

Terry

10-17-2009, 08:12 PM

StanFoster

10-18-2009, 04:10 AM

Terry- Your observations are welcome...I like to gather all advice.....boil it down and use what fits my situation practically.

Sure, there are always going to be areas my helicopter could be improved on, and it never will be like a certified one.

My radio...non-certified....
engine...non certified....
transmission......non certified
every other part.....non certified

I have over 800 hours flying gyroplanes that were worked on by me and were non-certified. I accepted the thrill/risk ratio and enjoyed flying them a lot.

So, I cant argue about the short comings one more non-certified aircraft will have that I am going to enjoy flying.:wave:

Your comments are not being ignored...but are going to cause me to look closer at my work and see where I can improve on what I havent finished yet. One example because of your post ......I have two spade lugs that are critical to the mission. That being the alternator and the governor switch. I have decided after my final wiring check....to simply solder these two terminals. Even though these connections are very tight....this in my opinion would actually make me feel they are even more secure than a ring connector with a screw. In the rare case I have to remove this switch,....a simple heating will allow it to come off. So Terry, I can thank you for that input. The other terminals are not mission critical, even the fuel pump. It can be switched off in flight.

Stan

All_In

10-18-2009, 06:17 AM

Looking good buddy, thanks for sharing!!!

StanFoster

10-18-2009, 06:18 AM

Lee Scat has made a very kind gesture by PM. He offered to send me some terminal strips to replace my loops that I made up. These are my words, and not Lees, but I will be the first to say that my loops, although very secure, are "cheesy" in my eye...but acceptable. I had looked high and low for such terminal strips to no avail. I told Lee I welcome him sending them and to send me a bill with them. Thanks Lee for the kind offer, your polite way of doing it by PM, but I went public anyway. I appreciate critisism when done in your manner. I will post some installed pictures of Lees terminal strips he offered to send me.......here is one of my " cheesy"....my words.....alternative way I concucted!:censored: You can see the yellow terminal loops on the blue terminal block. It would never have failed in my opinion...but what Lee is suggesting will look so much more professional. Hey....I have learned a lot from this thread. Lee also suggested I could drill and safety wire any spade lugs.....but I still will just solder them. Less chance of any incontinuity. I have to again thank Terry for putting some doubt in my head about my spade use.

Thanks Lee!

Stan

jcarleto

10-18-2009, 06:36 AM

Incontinuity? Don't they have pills for that now? :boink:

StanFoster

10-18-2009, 06:45 AM

Jon- Did I butcher that word? ha..:der:

I was in the general vascectomy in its use anyway...:yo:

I wish I was amphibious so I could type with both hands...

Stan

All_In

10-18-2009, 07:10 AM

Jon- Did I butcher that word? ha..:der:

I was in the general vascectomy in its use anyway...:yo:

I wish I was amphibious so I could type with both hands...

Stan
Now that's funny!!!

StanFoster

10-18-2009, 11:22 AM

Lee- I measured my terminal strip and thwy are 7/16 of an inch center to center. So your 0.438 c-c will be what I need. If you could send me extra so I can make up some others, that would be fantastic. That is so nice of you. Stan

StanFoster

10-18-2009, 01:33 PM

I started messing with this 9 pin connector that will feed all the instruments in the upper panel...turbine temp, turbine oil pressure, transmission temp and pressure, chip lights...all the power for the gauges, etc.

Like usual...I read the instructions and they mentioned using a #30 to drill out the sockets. I tried that drill on a test scrap...and the terminals were loose as a goose. So I decided that they were fine as is...and they were!

Man, you have to verify all instructions.

I also am placing 1/8 inch shrink tubing around each wire....they fit nicely inside the socket and just provide more strain relief to those fragile wires.

The last two pictures show how I am "training" my lower panel wire bundles to submit to gentle application of 100-125 pounds of number 13 foot pressure.:D You have to treat these wires with care...and no way was I going to use 220 pounds of force! I can wedge my back against the seat and give that shoe all she can take....and those wires submitted................:boink:

Stan

ckurz7000

10-18-2009, 10:01 PM

Ah, finally I understand what a foot-pound is! :)

-- Chris.

StanFoster

10-19-2009, 03:10 AM

Chris- In reality, the panel tilts back with just a little resistance. When I am all done...I can go underneath and look up inside to see if there are any of my wire bundles rubbing anything. I am either going to spiral wrap them, of place some plastic conduit around the wires for extra security. I still have many wires to run yet. I know from experience to try to keep the wires in one bundle....instead of say three bundles that are separated. That just gives a truss effect and makes folding the bundles much tougher than if they were all in one.

I am just letting this process evolve as I go along. I find myself unsnipping wire ties several times just to reroute the wires a little better.

Stan

ckurz7000

10-19-2009, 03:50 AM

Stan, that was a pun! For us metric guys a foot-pound is some arcane analogy to a Newton-meter.

-- Chris.

StanFoster

10-19-2009, 07:10 AM

Chris- I knew it was a pun. I was told privately that putting my foot pressure was a little aggressive! I was kidding of course, but he didnt know that! .......... I Have my 9-pin connector all wired and the coninuity across all the pins is goog. More pics tonight. Stan

HobbyCAD

10-19-2009, 12:21 PM

Stan,

Now that you are at the stage of using Molex connectors, (your 9-pin type), you should invest in making a pin extraction tool, just in case you want to remove an inserted wire again. You might want to pass the loom through a bulkhead hole, or change wire positions in the connector block. It sure is frustrating, trying to get them out, without a special tool.

Take a uncrimped male pin or female socket, go to your local R/C Hobby Shop, get a short piece of thin wall brass tubing, usually K&B or DuBro, that's ever so slightly larger than the pin body diameter. It should just slide over the front of the connector pin, compressing the retaining tangs back down. Once back home, use those Dewalt tools of yours, turn down a piece of wooden dowell, fit a 2" piece of the brass tubing to the front of it, you now have a nice miniature handle on the thin tube.

If you want to remove a pin from a connector block, from the front side, slide the tool tube over the pin, it compresses the retaining tangs back down. Simply tug on the wire end, and extract the pin out of the connector block.

.....or go to Radio Shack, buy the proper Molex pin extractor tool....

Regards,

Francois

StanFoster

10-19-2009, 02:17 PM

Francois- Thanks for your excellent tip. I was wondering how to get one of them out of there....just TODAY!!! I had my Molex connector all numbered...and idiot proof. Well...this idiot put one of the wires in the wrong hole...and of course it snapped nicely in place. I had to clamp the wire in a vice and pull it out backwards.....I knew it would destroy the tabs on the connector. The wire broke...and I had to tug on it with some needle nose pliers. It finally submitted....and I put a new connector on with the correct wire in this time.

Next time I will make one of your tools. You described it well...thanks again.

Stan

StanFoster

10-19-2009, 02:31 PM

I now have my molex connector feeding the female side that will power up the upper instrument panel. I was careful soldering everything....and making sure each was secure.

I filled up the mating plug with the wires that will tie in to the instruments. I cut them plenty long. I then took my ohmeter and went over every circuit I have wired so far. Thank god I labeled everything. I made a 10 foot jumper wire and checked all the turbine wires back where it will go....I had at least a dozen circuits going back there to check...clutch disengage...engage light circuits...turbine temp and pressure wires....transmission temp and pressure....tail rotor chip wire, transmission chip wire..... Mt cyclic has a PTT circuit...and a channel changer circuit... So far everything is go for launch..

I was starting to fill a little bothered by all those unorderly wires. My chaos of wires is starting to flow together.

Stan

choppergabor

10-19-2009, 11:38 PM

Looking very nice and organized. I think being organized is probably more important than the looks of it. :) I have learned that while we used to wind up the excess wire on the handle of the screwdriver into a spiral instead of cutting it off. Yeah it did look pretty.....we were not really thinking clearly and considering the effects of induction....:der:
Very nice Stan I love this thread! :)

StanFoster

10-20-2009, 04:01 PM

I got out super early today and just had to start cleaning up my rats nest of wires. I started running this spiral wrap. You can see one picture where the wires are all chaotic....and the next picture shows it all tightly bound with this spiral wrap. That is the best wire gathering stuff I have ever messed with. I love it. You can wrap a run of wires...and say you have a wire teeing off to the side....the spiral wrap just goes on by it...like a branch coming out of a tree trunk.

When I am all done...this spiral wrap will be zip tied to the longeron frame member.

I was disgusted with myself. I had one cable that had four wires inside it looped on the wrong side of a frame member...preventing me from doing one nice continuous wrap. Part of me just said to forget about it...it really woudnt matter.....but my gut was telling me that I already made one mistake....and leaving it would be a second mistake......fixing it would be back to 0 mistakes......so.....I fixed it. I had to unsolder the four circuits...rerun the wire....then resolder everything. Took an hour....but when I spiral wrapped it up....I felt a sense of satisfaction.

Stan

animal

10-20-2009, 04:04 PM

Stan I love that stuff,I used it on the Commuter H1B where the wires exit the firewall and also run up the frame.

nice thing is it can be removed for inspection at any point and put back on with out alot of effort.

choppergabor

10-20-2009, 04:07 PM

That spiral thingy is neat stuff. Hmmmm I like it a lot. Does it come in yellow? LOL Ya know the Bee yellow..... hehehehe

StanFoster

10-20-2009, 04:07 PM

Here are more of the spiral wrapping. The last pictures show my harness securely tied off to the back of the instrument panel. I am totally confident this is very secure and I can feel no pressure going to the individual terminals. You could almost hang 30 pounds off this bundle its that monolithic.

I was paying particular attention to the wiring on a "certified" Robinson R22 yesterday. The wire bundles I saw were not as secure as what I have done here. I should have had my camera for proof.

Now...on the vertical bundle you see here...that is all zip tied together. I may remove those zip ties and do it all with spiral wrap.

Stan

Resasi

10-20-2009, 04:27 PM

So right about fixing mistakes that might be easy/tempted to leave Stan.

When one has done them one feels good because it is now done correctly to the best of one's ability, then secondly because one has conquered the temptation to put up with what one knows is an inferior job.

It's a very satisfying feeling.

Kandace

10-20-2009, 05:07 PM

I was paying particular attention to the wiring on a "certified" Robinson R22 yesterday.

Does that mean you were flying yesterday in the 22?

Kandace

choppergabor

10-20-2009, 05:11 PM

LOL nice catch Kandace. Mr. Foster is busted :)

StanFoster

10-20-2009, 05:31 PM

Kandace- I should be taking my checkride by the end of next week. I am finishing my 3 hours pre-checkride training tomorrow. Good news, I will be lansing at my stairshop and my house, then I will be signed off to do that once I am a helicopter pilot. I will be ecstatic getting that rating. STAN

StanFoster

10-20-2009, 05:37 PM

Kandace- I forgot to mention that the signoff for non airport landing sites is for insurance purposes for the R22 I will be renting. I have already landed at both places solo, but this has to have my instructor sign me off so I can do them with my rating.

StanFoster

10-21-2009, 05:10 AM

I have been checking out all my electrical circuits and so far all is go....except my radio was behaving strangely. I of course installed my antenna and wired up the power to it. The PTT switch and channel changer are on my cyclic. I could change the channels ok, but when I pushed my PTT switch, the red xmit light would flicker , then go out , and the screen would rethink and come back with another channel. I have been perplexed about this for 2 days........Then I was laying awake at 4:30 a.m. this morning trying to get my lazy butt out of bed by 5....and thinking through how careful I was making the harness, antenna, and hooking the wires up correctly. I had no doubt I had done them correctly. Then with a mind as clear as it gets early in the morning, I thought about my power source I was using , a 12 volt motorcycle battery charger. I just was hit with a jolt, and could not get out of bed fast enough. I went to the shop with a regular battery charger that handles 10 amps. I looked at the amp rating on my little charger and is one only .5 amps. duuuuhhhhh!!! I connected the bigger charger to the bussbars, turned the radio on, hit the PTT switch. and was greeted with a nice steady red xmit light! This completely made my day. By the way.....my computer crashed and took my wireless internet with it. I will be on this cellphone for awhile, so get your drawing pad and crayolas out if you want pictures. I may need Vances help, because no one can paint a picture with words like Vance can! Stan

ylf

10-21-2009, 06:16 AM

Stan, I wouldn't recommend powering up your electronics with a battery charger. They put out a lot more than 12-14 volts when lightly loaded and are not a clean/stable power source on their own. I would use an actual battery or a regulated power supply, which you can easily make from an old computer power supply.

Just don't want to see you fry your radio or something else.

PS: I don't think that someone who is self employed and still gets up at 5am can legally be called "lazy". :-)

Mike

choppergabor

10-21-2009, 06:29 AM

I have to double Mike. He is correct. The turn on spike can go to a momentary 100s. Use a battery for it Stan nice stable 13.7 :)

Kandace

10-21-2009, 11:16 AM

StanFoster

10-21-2009, 04:24 PM

Kandace- I cant wait to have my helicopter rating. It most likely will be the last rating I will go after, I have no desire to go any higher. But, I am very impressed how aggressively you are acquiring your ratings Kandace, i am impressed. I just spread my time out as 2009 was a huge year for my stairbuilding, that and my Helicycle project, and finishing up my helicopter rating has me overextended a tad timewise. I just received word that I may get to do my checkride this Sunday, maybe. I just dont feel complete without that rating, and now I found out that I must have it to fly my Helicycle, no doubt about it. I want to get the thread back on track here. .......Lee, I received your terminal strips today, thanks so much. I cant wait to return the favor. Stan

choppergabor

10-21-2009, 06:15 PM

Stan don't forget to take a bath with a sponge Bob sponge before checkride. It is a good luck thingy. I don't know if it really works or not but it has been a good luck charm to my students :) Just remember "you know what to do, you already have the knowledge just be yourself and watch for the engine failure" fly over are that you can land! If it's not on yor side tart turning it will be on the other side. No examiner will chop throttle unless they can land :) You are the MAN! GO and get it make me proud :)

StanFoster

10-22-2009, 04:21 AM

Gabor- Thanks for the encouragement! By the way, I wont be taking a sponge bob bath, I will pass because I know my stuff, or I will fail because I was too nervous. ......Yesterday my instructor had me land on my 200 ft X 200 ft. heli-lot next to my house. I then backed up to the corn, set it down, and demonstrated a max performance takeoff over some tall powerlines. I picked an angle right over a pole and what a rush! Then we flew down to the 'hole' next to my stairshop where I did a steep approach into the hole. He said I set it up very well. I then did a max performance takeoff and had a darn steep angle to clear the tall trees. I bobbled my first attempt, but without my instructor grabbing the controls, I aborted the attempt, circled back and did it correctly the next time. I thought I used good judgement aborting my first attempt, rather than save it by really climbing out steep to clear the tall walnut trees. I mean...this is one tight hole! I flew out and them flew through my chopper channel. What a freakin RUSH! My instructor loves that channel, and I got a kick out of him using my chopper channel name. Anyway, I set up for another max performance takeoff out of the hole.....I love this stuff! Of course I will use the chopper channel for my Helicycle, but this was very good training. ..........Something else I was surprised about. It was windy and I know how turbulent the wind rotors are off those trees. I was very alert waiting for some severe buffeting rising out of that hole....but my biggest surprise was there was no surprise.....just very mild rocking. God, I am loving this powered rotor stuff. When I get my rating this weekend, I am now allowed to bring the R22 down and land at my stairshop and my house. ....something I have already done without my instructors permission...but he found out! Nathan Schrock is my instructor and he is the coolest guy, and sure has had a lot of patience with me. Stan

animal

10-22-2009, 04:52 AM

Gabor- My instructor loves that channel, and I got a kick out of him using my chopper channel name. Anyway, I set up for another max performance takeoff out of the hole.....I love this stuff! Of course I will use the chopper channel for my Helicycle, but this was very good training. ..........

..but my biggest surprise was there was no surprise.....just very mild rocking. God, I am loving this powered rotor stuff. When I get my rating this weekend,

I am now allowed to bring the R22 down and land at my stairshop and my house. ....something I have already done without my instructors permission...but he found out!

Nathan Schrock is my instructor and he is the coolest guy, and sure has had a lot of patience with me. Stan

Stan that is too cool,that your CFI likes your Chopper Channel cut out. better be careful. he might want to start useing it for other students..lol

Yeah I do love powered Rotors, I can't wait to get my Commuter done and start training.

Gee Stan, do you think posting a pic of the R-22 in your yard might have had anything to do with the CFI finding out..:)

Now get your computer fixed so we can see more of those dream type pics of the Helicopter in the yard.. :)

Sounds like you have a cool CFI and he probably likes the Challange of landing at your place,probably give it just a bit more fun to his training you.

not to mention helps him stay on his game for confined area ops.

you are going to have just to much fun with the Helicycle, and I am looking forward to reading of your adventures.

choppergabor

10-22-2009, 06:22 AM

Stan I am so sure you will do good on you checkride. And I am sure Nathan would not put you up for it if he didn't think you are perfectly ready. I like to hear you enthusiasm. Brings back good memories :) Sponge Bob is a trick. :) People don't realize taking a long bath is extremely relaxing and I trick them into getting all relaxed before the ride :) You will pass because you know your stuff Stan. Remember you can be the best friend or the worst enemy of yourself. This is the hardest of all checkrides. You went from knowing nothing to flying the beast. The information mass you had to absorb is just tremendous. Aerodynamics, Airspace, Weather, Navigation, Rules and Regs, Rotorcraft behavior, just so many things to absorb. And then you have to learn to tame the beast. No pressure my friend. I know you will pass and make us proud :) We are already proud :) And no it doesn't get any better I don't care what kind of checkride you are taking. It's always the same. Stomach is in a ball and sweaty palms are just part of the whole procedure :)

StanFoster

10-22-2009, 01:57 PM

Lee sent me these circuit connectors to replace those loops I had installed. I really appreciated that gesture...and the best way to thank Lee was to install them right away. You can see the before and after pictures of how it cleaned it up. The 2nd picture shows the clips that replace my wired loops. The one picture of the screw driver is just showing I had to tape the screw to the screwdriver, to keep from dropp it 40 times. I even had to hack off one inch of the handle. I have one of those screwdrivers that spreads to hold a slotted screw...but it was too long to squeeze between the sides.

I spiral wrapped up the the molex connector....and soon I will be wiring the upper panel. I am going to have to wait for two instruments that come with the turbine shipment. I will just not let that hold me up and go ahead and have the wires sitting there trembling to be hooked up.

I called Blake at the Helicycle company and told him I had all the wires run and labeled...sitting there trembling until the turbine arrives.

Stan

StanFoster

10-23-2009, 04:35 AM

Taking the day off to go play with my grandson Colton. I have 2.5 hours to kill....so I decided to come to the hanger and do some wiring cleanup. I slowly have turned my wiring chaos into something I think the electrons can at least follow without a map.

This quick mission was to put on some more spiral wrap, organize these wrapped bundles and secure them to the sides. The instrument panel slides in nicely now....that high density spiral wrap is slippery and there are no errant wires to snag things. I still am not done....I have a bundle of wires coming up the starboard side left without spiral wrap....I know there are some more wires to be run...but my mind is still designing the circuits. I am thinking of putting another microswitch in my pistol grip to run to my camera for taking video clips. I would like to put a bullet cam up behind the swashplate looking forward. You could watch the subtle movements of the swashplate as it flies the rotor to new planes, and changing the nice views coming into the camera. Just some ideas I am kicking around. I am still not done.....I will eventually have more supports as needed guiding these looms into a smooth fold up as the instrument panel is closed. What is nice is I can peak through the open fuselage halves at the bottom and look for any possible problems. I have crawled under there several times and readjusted wires. I think I have it 95% the way it will be permanent.

After yesterdays max performance takeoff out of the "hole" next to my stairshop, I would have loved to have captured that view for sharing here. I was ecstatic controlling that R22 out of that hole just clearing those walnut trees.....and then seeing the most beautiful sun kissed view of the treetops as I cleared them then went through translational lift as I flew just above the solid woods below gaining precious airspeed. I will capture this in my Helicycle ....safely...with just a click of switch on my cyclic.

By the way....my other computer went on the blink....so I am wired to always come back better than before. I have my home laptop fixed, and another laptop is now put into commision right at my hanger with its own aircard. I can now post pictures all day long from my hanger. I imagine my stairshop will feel my new internet connection. It will let me know when I have spent too much time!

Stan

choppergabor

10-23-2009, 04:45 AM

This is looking so good Stan. Very professional all the way. I envy you patience. I don't think I have any compared to you. :)

StanFoster

10-23-2009, 05:21 AM

Gabor- Thanks. I learned a long time ago if I dont have time to 'try' and do it right...when am I going to have time to do it over. Notice I said 'try'....I have learned a lot from posting pictures and my ideas on this thread....then receive better advice from the various other skilled people reading this. Several times I have found myself taking much needed advice and indeed finding the time to do it over.

Here are a few more shots. I velcroed my carpet rectangles in place. I noticed they were full of wire snips...tie scraps..etc.. I simply ripped them out....I love that sound of velcro! then just shook them off and stuck them back in place.

Next I put my instrument panel back in place just to see how easy it behaves now. It goes in with just a little pressure from my finger. Looking up inside I see no problems.

Stan

Monte55

10-23-2009, 01:21 PM

StanFoster

10-25-2009, 04:33 AM

Thanks everyone for the attention this thread constantly receives. I am overwhelmed at the hits it receives...and unlike most of my threads...the hits are racking up at a higher rate than when the thread started. I really think once the turbine arrives....that in my opinion...the installation phase will be the most interesting and will escalate these hits at even a higher rate. I am proud to be involved with all of you fine people.:yo:

I have had my n-number....N360SF reserved for over a year...and sent in the required paperwork to have it assigned just ten days ago. I have already received my assignment notice from the FAA.....they are much faster than they used to be.:whoo:

I can now have my N-numbers displayed on the aircraft. I am going to have some 3 inch tall letters...with a slanted profile made at my local sign shop this week.

The 360SF is very significant to me. All my N-numbers have ended in SF. ...which of course are my initials. The 360 is a very important number to me. I go in circles all the time building my curved stairways....a rotor does nothing but turn 360's constantly. So when you see N360SF fly into Mentone next year....you will easily see why I love that number. I will be having a rotor doing 360's at a 600 rpm rate....will be doing 360 turns while hovering....and the pilot cant build anything straight or that flies straight....and is constantly going in circles with everything I do. !:rolleyes:

Stan

animal

10-25-2009, 05:56 AM

Stan, where will the N #'s be displayed? I am still debating putting mine on the body side panels behind the door,or locate them onto the the vert. stab.

StanFoster

10-25-2009, 06:05 AM

Tim- I am going to put white numbers on the burgundy band under the door cutouts. I purposely designed my paint scheme to allow for this.

Had I wanted my N-numbers on the vertical stabilizer, I would have left it one solid color. That white band going through the tail ruins the real estate for a number there.

Stan

StanFoster

10-26-2009, 03:52 PM

I can take my Geopilot 11 out of my Helicycle with those velcro circles. Its a real tight fit..and the velcro holds it in place. I rip it out when I need it traveling with my truck. I just pop out the aeronautical card...and put in the landmap card....and go to my destination. Today I used it to guide me to a destination in Peoria, Il....it had a lot of weird turns...and the ETA is also handy.

I put the aeronautical card back in...and took a picture of the handy onboard checklists it has for when I am ready to fly. It can be programmed to all kinds of custom checks. Whats neat is that you MUST X the box by each item to be checked off....or it wont let you continue. This will eliminate clutter as I will just have an electronic checklist.

Stan