View Full Version : How to route Pull Start handle on mast?
MoFishtail
06-30-2004, 03:47 PM
Could some of you builders please advise how I can safely attach
the pull start handle of my 532 Rotax - Air Command to the upper
part of my main mast so I can pull start from the seated position without
having to exit the craft? What pulleys are usually used in this
configuration? Are there problems with trying to mount this in
this location? I have seen some pictures of some machines here
on this board with such a configuration, but really don't know
how to start to do it?
Thanks for all responses and pictures if you have them!
Randy in Rolla, Missouri
:D
richardkennedy
07-04-2004, 11:30 AM
Hello Randy. I use a 2" pulley with a guard on it to keep the rope from being able to escape the pulley. Mount the pulley as far up the mast as you can, yet out of the way of everything up there. Position the starter housing with the rope coming straight out the top (it will rotate 360 deg on the 4 bolts) and obviously mount the pulley on the same side of your mast as the rope comes out of the housing. Then it's just a matter of spring loading the starter housing, running the rope thru the pulley, and attaching it to a handle. Also, if you get the standard starter rope from Airwolf or Leaf, it may bind up on the return causing you to have to pump it and mess with it to get it back in the housing. That is caused by the rope being slightly too large in diameter and it fills the housing spool too full. Go buy a slightly smaller rope and it will work fine.
richardkennedy
07-04-2004, 11:34 AM
Hey Randy, if you could get the time you should come to Morrilton Arkansas and look at some of the gyro's in my hangar. We have seven in there now and I'm sure you would get some good ideals. Anytime you might be able to come, just let me know.
GyroRon
07-04-2004, 09:24 PM
use a clamp on bracket to hold the pulley. don't just drill a hole through the mast to mount it! Holes in the mast are not good!
gyrodude
07-05-2004, 04:52 AM
How old is your Air Command? I used to own one with the starter rope routed up the mast so it could be started from the seat.
Where the engine mount cheek plates are attached to the mast are the bolt holes drilled through the mast or are the bolts installed around the mast in clamp fashion? The older Air Commands had the bolt holes through the mast which has caused the upper part of the mast and blades to depart the aircraft especially when a blade strike occurs. A starter rope could strangle you if this should happen. When you are sitting strapped in the machine it is hard to see what is happening behind you. Would it not be better to start it before you sit down and strap in?
PW_Plack
07-05-2004, 06:31 AM
Gary...
I'd bet more people have been injured trying to board an already-running aircraft than have been strangled by starter ropes!
I also like the idea that I'd have a chance at a restart in flight if I did something dumb and killed the engine.
gyrodude
07-05-2004, 11:24 AM
You need to start a gyro with the engine at idle with your body blocking the machine from moving forward and have access to the kill switch if needed.
Have you ever seen a mast depart a gyro after a blade strike? I have. It is not pretty. You can very easily be decapitated.
This restart business in the air. Unless you have a lot of altitude then your only thought is to set up for the landing. Can you reach up with one hand meaning the left one because you aren't going to turn loose of the stick with the other and pull hard enough to attempt a restart? Without power a gyro drops like a rock.
I have electric start on my 503 and it is accessible to my left hand in flight and I would try a restart but ultralight altitude being 700'-1200' and the terrain being not hospitable for a lot of options I'm busy getting down in one peice.
PW_Plack
07-05-2004, 06:23 PM
In the three years I've been around gyros, I have seen an RAF and a Sport Copter which both had blade strikes. The RAF mast tore cleanly off at the portion made of two aluminum plates sandwiching 2-x-2 square tubing sections. The pilot had been flying without the doors, and got some runway rash when the machine tipped over. The Sport Copter had mangled blades, but the mast took a close look to even see evidence of the event. The pilot walked away uninjured. (I know that not all gyros behave this way in a blade strike.)
In the same period at the airports I frequent, two gyros and one fixed-wing (that I know of) have started rolling before the pilot got to the controls. The gyro incidents never got past the slapstick humor stage. The fixed-wing incident was fatal to an elderly passenger.
I guess the things we choose to worry most about is shaped by our own personal experiences.
GraemeMonro
07-06-2004, 02:07 AM
I had an engine out at 1000' ( water in fuel ) and had time to reach up and try 2 restarts before deciding to concentrate on the landing which turned out really well just leaving a short walk home. Normally it takes 2 hands to start but when you need to it is easy with just 1 hand.
MoFishtail
07-09-2004, 03:33 PM
Thanks for everyone's responses. My AC is the older style with the
bolts drilled through the mast on the cheeks. I had toyed with the idea
of running the pull rope along the frame and ending up at my ankles
where I could just reach down and pull back to start the engine.
I had seen several of the old Kolb flyers with a dual set up of pull
ropes like that. I just might have to do some experimenting.
Thanks! :D
Randy in Rolla, Missouri
gyrodude
07-09-2004, 06:29 PM
There are several things you need to check on your machine. Pull the bolts out of the cheek plates holding the motor mount to the mast. Visually inspect the inside walls of the mast for possible scoring that happened when the holes were drilled. If you see any damage throw the mast away and install a new one, 2 1x2s bolted together and the cheek plate bolts clamped around the mast instead of through it.
Check and see if the rudder shaft bearing box is plastic or metal. If it is plastic it is probably broken. The older style AC's rudder shaft was made of regular steel. The new ones are Chromoly. The old ones break off.
If you have the old style pump stick it can break off.
The steering linkage can get too far off center and lock up resulting in a nasty tip over on landing.
All of these things happened to the Air Command that I had. I fly a Dominator now.
MoFishtail
07-10-2004, 12:28 PM
Hmm, sounds like I am just starting the tip of the proverbial
ice chunk, here. The more I learn about this old AC the more
things I see that need to be changed or modified. I guess this
is just part of the hobby.
Thanks, :D
Randy in Rolla, Missouri
CLS447
07-11-2004, 01:45 AM
Here is my pullstart in flight. I can start it sitting down only after initial starting & warm-up. The 447 never quit on me, so I never tried an in-flight restart. At my flying altitudes I would definately be more concerned about a good landing spot, which I try to keep under me at all times!
CLS447
07-11-2004, 02:08 AM
It uses the lower front cheekplate bolts which are always drilled through! I have changed my mast to the 2 2x1 config. (recommended)
It is the motor mount plates that are changed to clamp on style with only one bolt drilled through. (great idea)
The spring loaded steering tubes can be adjusted so that they don't jam on you.
I love the way that my pull rope is mounted. I recommend it. It is just the way the original manual told me to do it.
I think I had to replace the Rotax rope with a longer one. Which did not thrill me at the time because I hated to disassemble a brand new motor. It turned out to be quite simple.
Sorry ,I just can't find a good shot of the pull rope!?!
MoFishtail
07-11-2004, 02:23 PM
Excellent post, Chris! Thank you for the pictures.
That helps a lot. Where did you purchase the pulley
for the rope that is attached at the top of the mast by the handle?
Thanks,
Randy in Rolla, Missouri :D
CLS447
07-11-2004, 02:39 PM
It came with my kit. I would call Air Command Int. for all the parts. Doug Smith should be able to help you out easily.
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