What oil for vw engine?

[mcbirdman]

I don't see that many people using vw engines, I noticed Screw does but I am wondering what is a good oil to use. I have heard people say (I think ) mobile one synthetic but I am not sure what the weight is. Is it straight 30 weight or 10/30 or something? Trying to do the best I can in this area but the TEC engines aren't being built anymore and I know someone out there knows..... Thanks ! jtm

Also, I assume avgas instead of high octane auto gas is better? Trying to figure out what I am going to use - and stick with it. Thanks again....

[scottessex]

Mobil 1 would be my choice. Or you could use an oil designed for an air cooled engine such as Mobil1 V-twin motorcycle oil. Or aeroshell 100.

[mcbirdman]

Thanks Scott. Do you know if it has to be 30 weight or if 10/30 is ok? I found something somewhere that said don't use aviation oil... something I think I remember it saying about being too thick to get through all the small passages or something. I can't find my notes on what I was leaning towards and I figured this was an easy one for VW'ers... Thanks jtm

[scottessex]

Regular Mobil1 should be fine 10w30. The motorcycle oil is 15w50. I have another friend besides John that runs a VW and he runs Mobil1 10w30.

[quadrirotor]

I used 5-50 CASTROL 100% synthetic: no problem. :)

[automan1223]

Air cooled vw engines should use a STRAIGHT weight oil. no multi visc like 10w-

just a straight. 30w, 40w, or 50 w. you might have to look around for it though.


Some motorcycle oils use a moly additive for use with clutch packs and transmission stuff so I dont know, or recommend it it would be ok to use in auto app only.

although I dont think you could go wrong with mobil 1 15w50.

watch your oil consumption though.

Jonathan

[mcbirdman]

Okay VW's should use straight weight oil but 10/30 or 5 /50 or 15/50..... :confused:

Are these oils so much nearly the same it doesn't matter?

I know the Mobil 1 synthetic is like 4.50 / qt. I don't care how much it costs or if I have to drive across town to find a straight weight. Motorcycle oil - is that what we are comparing our engine needs to? I was hoping to find out what I should probably be using. I'll write it down in my master list of "proper" supplies used - I just still don't know what I should go buy so I can take good care of her.....

[automan1223]

Straight weight indicates the BASE stock of the oil. What it is refined to. Multi visc oils like 10w-30 etc have the first number of 5 or 10 and that refers to the BASE stock, the second number, 10-30 ......30 refers to the additive package to make it "protect like" a straight weight oil.

The key is to have a thin oil protect like a thick oil. however thin oils dont protect like thicker oils and break down under heat and load. Too think an oil can cause hard cold starting, high oil pressures, windage losses etc. so its a balance. Air cooled engines are more critical of oil used because of higher internal temps.

If you go into a well stocked auto parts house you can find straight weight oils. in sae 30- or 40 or 50. it will just say 30w or etc.


Jonathan

[scottessex]

I used to use aeroshell 100 (50wt) in my 1974 harley sportster, and it ran very well and didn't use oil like it did when I ran other oils. I know a harley isn't an aircraft engine but the old ironheads ran very hot, and are not much different than a radial engine(just missing a few cylinders).
you may just have to experiment to find out what works best for you.

[mcbirdman]

Thanks Scott and Jonathan,

That helps me quite a bit. I'm just trying to make sure the engine gets everything she needs to run many hours without complaining - and I am not that knowledgeable on the many types of oils out there.

From your advice, Thicker is harder to start in cold weather and so the thinner base of a mix helps in that area but it also acts like a thicker oil and performs more like a thicker oil which is better for the high temps that the engine will likely see.

If I use the synthetic 10/30 mobil 1 it is a thinner base but acts more like an oil that can handle the high heat better. I am then assuming that this would be something better to try than just straight weight 30... Also, I noticed all the Nascar stuff written over the 4.50/qt oil. This of course makes it the best bet since they are using it? (lol) I think that is what I'll get unless you guys think there isn't a difference and I should just as easily stop at the car parts store for straight 30.

[Screw]

Screw-In

Hey James...I am running Mobile One Synthetic and avgas. I don't know right off hand what blend I'm using...I believe it's a 15/50 or 10/40. I look when I get home and post back soon. The thicker the oil, the cooler your engine will run is what I was told by Great Plains. No problems.

As far as the avgas goes, My engine seems stronger and runs cooler. The down side is carbon. To solve this I'm running @ 1000rpm for idle to keep the carbon build up off the plugs. I alway do a run-up prior to TO ensuring no carbon builds up.

Have fun lol

Screw-Out

[mcbirdman]

Hi Screw --- Yea that's exactly what I been wanting to know.... Scott and Jonathan bring me up to date on what I am hoping to achieve and Screw tells me what he's putting his money on..... Thanks guys ! :)

[Screw]

Screw-In

Ok James, I'm running Mobile One Synthetic 15w-50. Great Plains said that was fine and no need to change oils based on Season. The thicker the better they said. Way better if synthetic.

Screw-Out

[mcbirdman]

Thanks alot John - writing it in my notes that I keep on the a/c. I had to glean oil temp operating limits from the great plains website. I think it was there that they said not to use the aviation oil, I think saying it had circulation problems through all the small holes or something. It is very difficult to get just the straight info. Thank you very much for digging for me !

Also going back to avgas. I had it running great and then I switched because I heard all the carbon build up and something about running cooler but I think I got that part confused. Anyway, it ran awful and I didn't know if I was going to have to reset the timing or something it was so bad. When I had it running avgas I cranked til it coughed, turned off choke and it would start right up on second crank if it sat a few days. If I had it running same day it would start without the choke. When I put it away last year I didn't go back to the avgas, I just drained out the fuel and figured I would have to wait till the next year. (now). I'll let you know shortly how she is doing if you want to know. Thanks again, jtm

[Caribean_gyro]

av gas 100LL will great lead build up in the valves. You can run it on your engine but you need to work on a shut down procedure. The rotorway hely has a procedure for theior engine when you use Av gas. Now you can use TCP that is use in aviation to scage the lead. I never use it, but I know a guy that use TCP in his plane.

Now aviation oil dont have detergent. Also aviation engine have a big oil pan to hold more Oil. If you use 10W or 15w it only means that 15w will still flow at alower temeprature than 10w "W=Winter" The thicker the oil the more work the crankshaft have to under go.

But Oil is like Balls, no matter what you read, herd or see if it dont feel good down there is not going to work.

some linkc
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/GArticles/Copper.html

[Caribean_gyro]

http://www.napanet.net/~arbeau/swift/octane.htm
http://www.alcorinc.com/DOCS/1/tcp.html

2 extra url

[RHerron]

James,

The twin brother to your gyro ran 15w50 Aeroshell and 100LL from day one. Never a problem.

Ron

[mcbirdman]

Thanks Ron, I found all my OTHER (than what I want) info that I had been gathering including the sheet that is on the great plains website that said not to use aviation oil. All this after I bought oil from the airport.... Tonight I stopped by and bought 15/50 Mobile One synthetic. This should make dad happy....

It's not like I need to run things but it was bugging me when I put it away last time with high octane gas that it didn't seem to like. No more back and forth, I wrote it down in the operating instructions and I'll just use avgas.

Ron, did you use any additives of any type with all the hours you flew the brother?

I have one other question that came to mind for you but I posted in where it should be if you have time.... jtm

[RHerron]

Jim,

Aeroshell 15/50 isn't your standard "Aviation" oil. It is semi-sythetic and offers the best of both worlds (mineral/synthetic).
I never used any additional additives...did not need them. The AS 15/50 contains additives.
If you use the 100% synthetic oil, you may not be able to run avgas exclusively due to the lead in the fuel. I know with the Rotax 914 they caution against that combination.
I only tell you what I know for a fact....the AS 15/50 works just fine in the VW.

Ron

[mcbirdman]

Hi Ron,

Okay, full synthetic goes back. I'll stop back at airport. AS 15/50 stays.

Also, did you ever go to the Great Plains page? There is a page there that deals with some AD type info. It talks about a plug in pre-1998 engine blocks possibly restricting oil to the main bearings on cylinder 4.. This engine, TEC, from the notes I have has been pulled apart a couple times. I think it was bought in Feb 1999 - and who knows how long it sat in a crate.... They said in about 50% of the cases they looked at there was at least some blockage. I can get you the link

http://www.greatplainsas.com/service1.html


Just considering how to proceed.... jtm