New Panel for "DaScrew-Driver!"

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That's right! I'm re-doing the pod because I didn't like it. I bought one of the fiberglass flaired pods and the pod itself is currently at the paint shop. However, Scott Essex has done some interesting work for me and I thank him. Here are some shots of the pod and faceplate so far.....

The pod I got is the one on the right.

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Starting closest to the cyclic is the master kill switch guarded in the "On" position and my Back UP RPM guage and hour meter.

Above it is my "Storage Hatch" and "Ash Tray."

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Here, I will demonstrate the hatch. In here I can keep my paperwork or and extra pack of smokes. Speaking of smokes....

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On board "DaScrew-Driver," you can relax, because on "Screw-Air," every flight is "Smoking." :D Just kidding.

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In the "flight configuation" with all hatches closed, this new pod is very streamline. Above the hatch will be my Oil Pressure and Oil Temp.

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The Main Face has 5 instruments mounted. Across the top Left to right is ASI, Compass, and Altimeter. Bottom two across left to right is CHT and RPM.

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The over all face plate as it appears now. I will post pics when the pod returns from the Paintshop.

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[Vance]

Hi John, That looks very nice. Even though I don't smoke I have to admire the ashtray. I also like what you did with the rotor tach so that it is not such a dominant part of the in flight sweep but is avalible for pre rotation and takeoff. It demonstrates a fine thought process and good design.

It is my understanding that it is bad practice to put a compass next to electric analog gages because they can confuse the compass with their own magnetic output. I would be gratefull if you would debunk this if it all works well.
Thank you for sharing, Vance

[KenSandyEggo]

Well John, you don't have anywhere near enough of them, but at least you got real, manly instruments.

[Caribean_gyro]

LOL. The ash tray was a good one. I have 2 question. 1: I am helping a friend that has a tiny tach in his hirt engine. WE put the pick up in a parl plug and it reads 8,000 rpm? but the book said that the F30 can only go up to 6500? Is tyhere any calibration setting?

Now 2: are the srws you have in the instrumnet not affecting the compass? I use bronze on all my panel and still due to radio and sorrounding objetcs I have 2 degress off base on my GPS
ChuckP

[CLS447]

Hey John, I LIKE IT! I want one for my KB-2, do you still have one left? All I need is some money. What do you mean about RE-DOING IT? I never got to see the first one. I'm still blown away about the rotor blade thing. Are you really that much happier now? I just want to hear some more rave reviews because it makes me very happy for you. Your machine had me concerned with the temp thing & all that but now.......?

[CLS447]

Chuck , There is no calibration on mine but keep the red wire wraps away from other spark plug wires, or I was getting bad readings. How did you rig yours ,John?

[GyroRon]

The ash tray will go down as one of the funniest things I have seen on a gyro! John I want your old panel if you think it is still worth using

[Chuck Roberg]

Chuck P.

There are different models of the tiny tach. The Rotax engine fires twice for each revolution of the cylinder. So the proper tiny tach has to be ordered or the RPM wil read double.

I have a tiny tach for a Rotax engine. I believe I tried it on the Hirth. So that would mean the Hirth also fires twice for each revolution.

You might have the tiny tach for a 4 stroke engine and it's reading double the RPM. If theres a small white wire loop on the tiny tach, cut it in half then try it on the engine.

The Hirth engine has a RPM limiter (on the fuel injected model) that limits the max RPM to 6800 rpm. So you should never see 8000 rpm. Don't know about the carb version.

Try the Tiny tach web site for more info;
http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach.html

http://www.tinytach.com/origigas.html

[Brent_Brown]

The small white wire is the ground no need to cut it. I had the same readings to highand I went with just one wrap with the red wire and it works fine. I have a IR prop reader hand held thing to make sure it is right.

[Chuck Roberg]

Brents right, I checked their web site.

It was the older model that had a small white loop, you would have to cut it to work properly for the Rotax engine. With the loop uncut it would work on a 4 cycle engine.

Also with the model I have there is no ground wire.

Interesting, according to their address, their about 2 miles from my wife's office.

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Let's see if I can do this in order. First of all, Scott Essex did all of this to include the ashtray :D Not me. Scott is an A&P out at Delta and has a hell of a since of humor.


Vance:
I don't have a rotor tach. My primary Engine Tachometer on the main face only goes out to 3500RPM. The secondary "Tiny Tach" is mainly an hour meter but will also give me RPMs on take off when my primary is pegged! I have not had any trouble with the compass on the old pod. I don't know about this new one yet. I fly with a GPS Garmin Pilot III. The compass is mainly back-up and needed for "N" number registration, VFR Day.


Ken J.
Whatever do you mean? I didn't get it.

Chuck P.
I haven't wired any of it together yet, so I don't know. But will let you know how it turns out.

Chris,
I'm still blown away with the blade thing. I love it!!! I sold the last pod I had, but if you want, I can give you the guys name and number that I got mine from. Here is a link http://www.ultralighthomepage.com/CLASSIFIEDS/classifieds.cgi?session_key=&search_and_display_db_button=on&db_id=5710&query=retrieval I think it still in the "Wanted" section under "Pods." Chris you saw my old "Balsa Wood" Pod with model airplane covering at ROC. See attached photo.

Ron,
I've trashed the old wooded pod. Sorry, I didn't know you wanted it.

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