GeneWeber
05-02-2004, 06:47 PM
From the “8 simple rules of good gyro design” Thread:
Gene, Is your gyro done or are you more into what would allow it to fly now?
__________________
Happy Flying, Chris L. Spadafora
Hi Chris,
I’ve mentioned before that I had the very good fortune too hook up with John Mealey who has been a FW pilot for many years, has built planes, is very knowledgeable about aircraft construction, and owns a metal shop, so is also very knowledgeable about creating anything out of metal. John is also a true craftsman. He has a Gyrobee that he built, and it’s about 90% done. It’s a work of art.
After going over the Honeybee thoroughly with John, and based on things I’ve picked up so far from places like this forum, there were several things I decided to redo. First-off , I decided to move up to a 503, add a prerotator, and not try and stay under the ultralight weigh limit. But I am trying to watch its weigh, especially below the thrust line. It was a bit heavy when I initially weighed it, and most of the heavy items were below the thrust line.
The fiberglass main axles that the Honeybee used as its suspension are a bit heavy, but it’s a neat idea, and the only unique Honeybee idea I’m keeping. To save some weight 3” were cut off each axle. The axle bracing rods that attach to the keel tube were not adjustable, and had a “lose connection” to allow for suspension travel. Unfortunately it also allowed for a small amount of front-back movement of the main wheels. And the mains were a little bit toed out which couldn’t help ground handling stability. So the bracing rods are being changed over to rods with threaded end bearings that will allow for adjustment and suspension travel without slop.
The Honeybee “motorcycle tube” front axle is a fairly heavy assembly and has no castering. So that is being replaced by a Brock KB2 front wheel assembly like a standard Gryobee. John also came up with a very clever lightweight scrub brake that will mount to this axle. I will keep the cast Honeybee pedals. All of the changes to the landing gear will reduce the roll over angle ~3 degrees. But it sheds some pounds from down low, which should raise the vertical CoG up closer to the thrust line, and I think the ground handling will be improved.
The seat has been raised 2”, again to raise the CoG closer to the thrust line.
The Honeybee control stick travel didn’t appear to have enough range, and it was a bit heavy as well. John and I spent some time calculating pump stick setups, and even creating a mock-up out of conduit. Neither of us liked the motion of the pump stick. (I know some folks do. It’s a matter of what feels right to a person, and I wouldn’t have been comfortable with it.) So I purchased a Brock control stick. It’s lightweight, travel is not limited, and it’s very well made (as is the Brock nose wheel assembly).
John and I are committed to making lightweight cruciform (tall) tails for our bees. This will reduce the torque roll on take-off, and again raises the vertical CoG. I sold the tail that was on the Honeybee, and the rudder tube was so full of mounting holes (I think that was the second tail as the first was damaged) that I needed to replace it. A keel tube was also sent by accident, and it turned out to be easier to mount the Brock stick to the new keel tube, and install both new tubes. (At this point I’m starting to remember that I gave Ken J. a hard time about completely replacing every part of his RAF until only one original bolt was left. I think he placed a Carjackistan curse on me that I would be fated to doing the same thing. ;) At least Bees are cheaper.)
I couldn’t get the sharp looking engine mounting plate with holes drilled to accommodate a 503, and to be honest the Honeybee engine mount seems to be more about looks than function. It’s heavier than the cruder looking Gyrobee mount, but doesn’t appear to offer any real structural advantages, so that is also going to be “stock” Gyrobee. And shave a little more weight below the thrust line.
That is probably enough boring detail. I get to work on it once a week, and given the scope of the rebuild it is taking time. I took some instruction from Ron Menzie in the fall, but since I now doubt that it will be completed this flying season, I’m holding off taking any more lessons for now. The attached photos were taken Tuesday before mounting the Brock front wheel assembly. You can see this thing isn’t going to fly in 2004.
I decided to register it experimental. It is registered as N45575. Since it’s going to be a cross between a Honeybee and a Gyrobee with a tall tail by the time it’s done, I declared the type “Bee Different” (Like me :D ).
Best Regards,
Gene
Gene, Is your gyro done or are you more into what would allow it to fly now?
__________________
Happy Flying, Chris L. Spadafora
Hi Chris,
I’ve mentioned before that I had the very good fortune too hook up with John Mealey who has been a FW pilot for many years, has built planes, is very knowledgeable about aircraft construction, and owns a metal shop, so is also very knowledgeable about creating anything out of metal. John is also a true craftsman. He has a Gyrobee that he built, and it’s about 90% done. It’s a work of art.
After going over the Honeybee thoroughly with John, and based on things I’ve picked up so far from places like this forum, there were several things I decided to redo. First-off , I decided to move up to a 503, add a prerotator, and not try and stay under the ultralight weigh limit. But I am trying to watch its weigh, especially below the thrust line. It was a bit heavy when I initially weighed it, and most of the heavy items were below the thrust line.
The fiberglass main axles that the Honeybee used as its suspension are a bit heavy, but it’s a neat idea, and the only unique Honeybee idea I’m keeping. To save some weight 3” were cut off each axle. The axle bracing rods that attach to the keel tube were not adjustable, and had a “lose connection” to allow for suspension travel. Unfortunately it also allowed for a small amount of front-back movement of the main wheels. And the mains were a little bit toed out which couldn’t help ground handling stability. So the bracing rods are being changed over to rods with threaded end bearings that will allow for adjustment and suspension travel without slop.
The Honeybee “motorcycle tube” front axle is a fairly heavy assembly and has no castering. So that is being replaced by a Brock KB2 front wheel assembly like a standard Gryobee. John also came up with a very clever lightweight scrub brake that will mount to this axle. I will keep the cast Honeybee pedals. All of the changes to the landing gear will reduce the roll over angle ~3 degrees. But it sheds some pounds from down low, which should raise the vertical CoG up closer to the thrust line, and I think the ground handling will be improved.
The seat has been raised 2”, again to raise the CoG closer to the thrust line.
The Honeybee control stick travel didn’t appear to have enough range, and it was a bit heavy as well. John and I spent some time calculating pump stick setups, and even creating a mock-up out of conduit. Neither of us liked the motion of the pump stick. (I know some folks do. It’s a matter of what feels right to a person, and I wouldn’t have been comfortable with it.) So I purchased a Brock control stick. It’s lightweight, travel is not limited, and it’s very well made (as is the Brock nose wheel assembly).
John and I are committed to making lightweight cruciform (tall) tails for our bees. This will reduce the torque roll on take-off, and again raises the vertical CoG. I sold the tail that was on the Honeybee, and the rudder tube was so full of mounting holes (I think that was the second tail as the first was damaged) that I needed to replace it. A keel tube was also sent by accident, and it turned out to be easier to mount the Brock stick to the new keel tube, and install both new tubes. (At this point I’m starting to remember that I gave Ken J. a hard time about completely replacing every part of his RAF until only one original bolt was left. I think he placed a Carjackistan curse on me that I would be fated to doing the same thing. ;) At least Bees are cheaper.)
I couldn’t get the sharp looking engine mounting plate with holes drilled to accommodate a 503, and to be honest the Honeybee engine mount seems to be more about looks than function. It’s heavier than the cruder looking Gyrobee mount, but doesn’t appear to offer any real structural advantages, so that is also going to be “stock” Gyrobee. And shave a little more weight below the thrust line.
That is probably enough boring detail. I get to work on it once a week, and given the scope of the rebuild it is taking time. I took some instruction from Ron Menzie in the fall, but since I now doubt that it will be completed this flying season, I’m holding off taking any more lessons for now. The attached photos were taken Tuesday before mounting the Brock front wheel assembly. You can see this thing isn’t going to fly in 2004.
I decided to register it experimental. It is registered as N45575. Since it’s going to be a cross between a Honeybee and a Gyrobee with a tall tail by the time it’s done, I declared the type “Bee Different” (Like me :D ).
Best Regards,
Gene